Notice how that legacy in the photo is showing chlorosis. The leaf veins are darker than the interveinal leaf tissue, which is yellower than healthy plant tissue. Generally that means an iron deficiency (most likely caused by high pH), but Mg deficiency can do the same thing - albeit usually starting on older leaves whereas a Fe deficiency tends to be the whole plant, or newer leaves. The photos I have seen of Mg deficiencies in bbâÂÂs are quite variable. Then, the red color still could be either the cooler weather impacting P availability, or an additional symptom of Mg deficiency. The plant is already stressed/struggling even before the stress of transplanting. DonâÂÂt destroy any plants based on my commentary! I have limited practical experience with bbâÂÂs, and have never dealt with a virus issue myself. IâÂÂve simply done a lot of reading, and am trying to provide possible suggestions to investigate. One source that I refer to often is Spectrum Analyticsâ document on fertilizing blueberries. See Spectrum Analytic Inc. FERTILIZING BLUEBERRIES The photo on page 24 is the closest I have seen to your plantâÂÂs red, other than some virus photos (e.g. cornell) I would suggest reading there about P and Mg, along with all the other good info, if you havenâÂÂt already. You fertilized with a fertilized that included Mg . . . but what is your native soil like? Could it already have been Mg deficient? High in K or Ca that could make the Mg less available? (seems plausible if your region has natural mineral springs). Plus, it appears, based on the potted plant, there may have been preexisting issues - perhaps with Mg. BlueberryHillsFarm had the best suggestion right at the beginning. A leaf and soil analysis is in order. Otherwise, itâÂÂs just guesses and testing to see what various treatments might do. Even so, were it me, I might try a test on one or two plants by applying espom salts to provide additional Mg. 1/4 cup evenly distributed in a 10-inch diameter circle around the plant. (source for application recommendation). When I recently suspected a Mg deficiency in a couple plants, I added 1 Tbs per gallon of water and wetted the root zone. Results are yet to be determined. DonâÂÂt forget, the fresh sawdust will tie up nitrogen in itâÂÂs decomposition. You may need to add more nitrogen than normal to compensate for this.

This is a plume type of Celosia with red blooms. The catalog description says it has scarlet leaves. Have any of you grown it? Here is a link that might be useful: Celosia 'Red Flame'

The foliage color is genetic -- they are either green leaved or bronze-leaved -- BUT, the culture and care influence the intensity of the color a lot. The more sun they get, the more color in the leaves. Shade makes them a lot less vibrant. Also, if they are grown slightly dry, they tend to have more intense foliage color, but you don't want to stress them so much they don't grow and bloom well.

@Bayarea_girl z9ca I have a JM on my front yard that's upright and stands at about 15ft plus tall. The leaves on my JM don't turn green and stay red all year round. Even if it's extremely hot abd sunny in the Summer it just turns into a darker red like more of a purple/wine coloured shade of red instead of it "Bronzing out" like @gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9) said. I'm not sure what type of JM i have but through the seasons i know my JM turns into a really super bright almost neon red in the Spring, then during the Summer it turns into a purplish/wine coloured red, in the Autumn/Fall it changes to a brighter blood red color until the Winter time when it turns into a darker burgundy colored red four like a week then all the leaves fall off.