Code requires that all PVC DWV (drain, waste & vent) pipe used inside the structure MUST BE PVC-schedule 40 and the pipe MUST BE specifically labelled on the pipe wall as conforming to ASTM-D-2665. All joints on the PVC must be solvent weld joints (glued) and the Glue must be specifically labelled as approved for PCV pipe. In addition, code requires that all joints MUST BE cleaned with an approved PVC Solvent Primer before applying the glue. You will note when buying the primer that it is made in both clear and purple dye. While both primers are the same, it is highly recommended (and required in some jurisdictions) that you use the solvent/cleaner with the purple dye so the inspector can be assured that you used the primer. On a horizontal run the pipe must be supported within one foot of any change of direction and a hanger for each 48" of run. Metal hangers, metal wire or metal strapping is prohibited. You must use approved plastic hangers or plastic perf strapping. Here is a side note they don't tell you in most DIY books. The pipe must be hung in such a manner that the writing on the pipe wall is clearly visible. If you happen to put a pipe with the writing against a wall or hung from a ceiling with the writing on top some hard Azz inspectors will red tag it on the premise that they cannot read the information to confirm it is the correct type of pipe.

Yes, the Thomas Lee sleep cool and they just keep feeling better with age. The pillow cases are wonderful! I'm a cheapskate at heart and it pained me to buy such expensive sheets but I decided to give it a whirl. After the first use loved them so much that we never wanted to swap out for our other sheets, thus that set of sheets was washed weekly for 3.5 years and put right back on the bed that evening. They have held up perfectly. I doubt that if I had subjected cheap sheets to that same treatment that they'd be in one piece! If you're looking for no iron then these aren't for you, as they do look a little wrinkly. I've found that the older they get, the smoother they get though and the wrinkles don't bother me. I honestly won't ever bother getting other brands of sheets again.

Interesting conversation, and some valid points ksc. There are a few things that I think should be pointed out on this topic: -I don't believe that anyone has stated that one or two points of u factor will save a boatload of money on energy. In fact, u factor is only one component that should be looked at. SHGC is very important as well, as is air leakage. I only looked at that calulator briefly, but I'm not sure how accurate it can be without taking SHGC into consideration, as it is would be in residential heat loss calculations. I did not see anywhere that it takes shgc into account. -Cumulative improvements in multiple areas (IE: u factor, etc) can add up to have a more substantial effect. Couple points of u factor here, better shgc, tighter assembly over a houseful of windows can and does make a difference. -Condensation resistance is another issue that can be affected by a very small change in u factor. -There is no evidence to suggest that there would be any substantial decrease in the thermal performance of a quality window over time. Perhaps you could provide some sort of evidence to back up a statement implying otherwise? To say that these ratings are "worthless" is a pretty strong statement, and goes against all logic. -In addition to a few points of u factor mitigating energy loss, performance ratings often go hand in hand with product quality, particularly when it comes to vinyl windows. Looking at a product that gets a very average .30 u factor for instance vs one that achieves say a .26 will often indicate a superior product. When one examines the other ratings such as shgc, ai, dp, vt, etc, this will generally be confirmed as such. High quality windows generally perform well in all of those areas. Back to the original question, and MOST IMPORTANTLY, whether it is foam filling or any other product option, there should be a cost vs benefit analysis done to determine whether it is a worthwhile option. Anyone that says foam filling should be chosen at any cost probably has some nefarious motivation, as does someone that says it shouldn't. In fact, this whole conversation can actually probably go right into the debate of whether it is a wise investment to even replace windows at all, to which the answer is "it depends". If you expect them to pay for themselves in energy savings, the answer for most folks is no. That said, once you consider the added property value (most reports put ROI in the 60%+ range), comfort, quality of life (easy cleaning, attractiveness, etc), it can actually be a pretty worthwhile investment, particularly if other areas of the home like attic insulation and air sealing have already been taken care of. The real question is, what is the motivation for this attack?

Here's what I'd do. Get a dog poop digester such as the Doggy Dooley or a 5-gal bucket with the bottom cut out. Dig a hole a few inches deep to set it in. Dump stuff in there and after a period of time, move the thing and start in a new spot, and cover the old pit with soil. Avoid places where you'll be digging around for at least a year or two. The worms and the soil food web will take care of the rest. I don't think it takes any particular enzymes to digest dog poop, it is fairly similar to human. I think the sewage plant could handle it just fine. It's just not that convenient to get the dog to use the potty!