I think it's a good-looking house, with good proportions. I wouldn't call it "chopped up" looking at all. The mushroom-colored siding and white trim don't do anything for each other. I'd paint the siding (first and second floors both) something like the brick color you're testing in the photo of the front door, but with a bit more orange, and a few shades lighter than the brickwork. Paint the garage door the same color. That should give the house more unity than it currently has, de-emphasize the garage, and solve the "chopped up" issue. Consider painting the lower part of the downspout the brick color as well. I wouldn't use that color for the front doors, though, since you think the doors aren't noticeable enough. White or black would work, as you're already using them for accent colors (and both colors appear in the used brick). Or keep the doors blue. Wait to decide about shutters for the large window until after you've painted the siding. If it bothers you, install shutters; if not, save your money. [Another factor in this decision is the landscaping on either side of the window; will there be shrubs to cover the shutter area? and do you know what the hollies are? Since you're removed most of the shrubs, an updated photo would help.] While shutters are optional, I think a window box under the large window is a definite 'No.' The window is too low. Plant 2-3 evergreens in front of the window instead, and grow flowers in front of them in the warm season. I don't think changing the columns would draw more attention to the front doors, since the columns are in four different locations across more than half of the building. What will help is keeping shrubbery from concealing the area around the entrance. If whatever climbs the trellis will hide the front doors, then move the trellis elsewhere. I wouldn't put anything taller than a foot or a foot and a half in the area in front of the doors. If you want more color in that area, consider adding a narrow bed on the other side of the walkway for some flowering annuals or perennials. How narrow is the narrow bed? Does the porch run the whole distance to the driveway? Am I seeing a walkway in front of the narrow bed, or is that snow? Can you tell us what zone you're in? It will help with the shrub and tree recommendations. If you don't know your zone, you can use your zip code to find out: http://www.garden.org/zipzone/index.php

I'm in Pensacola, Fl (though I'm not really new anymore!!). We had 36 pallets (yep! ..a lot!) of El Toro installed in the Spring of 2010, and it is/was INCREDIBlY beautiful. But I've had my ups & downs. The ups are that I treated it organically only, so far, by not using any chemicals, but I did fertilize it 3 times over the spring and summer with rabbit food pellets (alfalfa pellets). The alfalfa pellets helped the roots take exceptionally fast, except along the house where there's shade, and under 2 large oak trees, where there's only about 4 hours of sun/day. So, where I had a lot of sun, and had put down alfalfa, it grew TOO well!! I was mowing twice per week, and (are you sitting down?) I was doing all this all summer long with a Fiskars Reel mower, the new orange one that came out that throws the grass forward, with NO catcher!!) Let's just say I was always mowing!! Every day, I would mow for about 1-2 hours, and use that as my exercise. After the large $$$ investment in the grass, I didn't see fit to buy a riding mower....just yet anyway. Actually, I LOVE the Fiskars mower, but I have almost an acre, and if the grass would grow more slowly, I think I'd be ok with it. So, although it greened up and took root, and was LUSH and THICK and quite possibly the prettiest grass in all of Pensacola, the down-side is that I don't think I can possibly repeat all that work again this coming summer. And the 1 other main problem I had was my own fault. On July 1st, with family/friends coming over for the July 4th weekend, I decided to cut the grass short so I wouldn't have to mow for the whole upcoming week. MAJOR MISTAKE!! I cut the 3" grass down to about 1". It looked FANTASTIC for the next week...and then, boom! It all turned brown! It took about 3 weeks for all of it to come back green again, but meanwhile, the weeds crept in, especially in the shaded areas under my 2 oak trees in the front yard. The side yards and back are in full sun, and though some weeds did get in, there aren't too many that I probably couldn't go in and hand-pull. But the weeds in the shaded area in the front yard (for all my inquisitive neighbors to gawk at) are getting worse throughout the winter and have pretty much taken over the zoysia. My question would be, when and what should I do, for either/or a pre-emergent, and/or post-emergent, even though I hate using chemicals. The alfalfa pellets were so amazing and even my roses and flowers on side beds were phenomenal, once I used alfalfa. I do have very sandy soil, and have been warned that if I ever go to using chemicals, I will kill off the GOOD nematodes, and will end up helping the BAD nematodes, and once I have the bad nematodes, this grass is pretty much a permanent bye-bye!! (Another neighbor about 10 yrs ago lost all his zoysia to bad nematodes) The only other problem I've had over the last 6 months or so, are mole hills and tunnels, and I've heard that I can use dishwashing soap in the water-sprayer to get rid of the bugs that attract the moles in the first place. I still have a bunch of mole hills/tunnels in the front yard, where there's shade and weeds. I've not really had any mole tunnels in the super sunny areas. So my questions are: 1. should I use chemicals for the weeds, and if so, what and when? 2. When should I scalp the grass this spring? And how short should I scalp it? 3. Should I keep using alfalfa, and when, and what else would help as far as fertilizer? 4. Any other thoughts?

Wow, much to think about. The pictures you sent looked a lot better than grass on the slop with a landscaped bed. This approach would really soften up my house much better. Low maintenance is a high priority for me. So I think trying to get away from shrubs is a good plan. I'm just not familiar with plantings at all. I'm still a bit hung up on figuring out what the height of the step down off the porch should be. Now that I understand your yellow/blue lines, it appears from your sketch the dirt line would be every bit of a 24" dropoff with ground cover around 18". This also looks similar to the photos you sent. I was worried this would be too much but assuming you agree with those dimensions, I'm going with it. The picture below gives a bigger picture. Note the patio section we've been discussing is on the right, it's way off to the side of the house (actually the carriage house/inlawsuite that was my grandmother's "retirement home" for 10 years until she passed away. (Don't be confused by the identical section in the middle labeled as Future: Phase 2, I was going to try out this concept on the side of the house with lower grade before attempting it in the middle section.) Here's an image looking out with the red circle on the left showing the area we're discussing. The panorama distorts the middle of the house making it appear as the center of the breeezeway. Because this is off to the side of the carriage house, it's really removed so I wasn't overly concerned about plantings, however, low maintenance is much better. Could you tell me what the purple and pink ground cover are. I'm not the most creative and would like to try to just copy what's in the photo if it works in 7b.

Since you are "next" to the bottom, I take it that there is a lower elevation, left of your lot, that acts as an escape route for water leaving your property? There seem to be basic flaws in the grading. For example, your driveway is pitched in the wrong direction relative to the overall flow of water. Without pictures, it's hard to gauge at whether the building elevations are reasonable, or make a true fix difficult or impossible. Also, details of the lot may impact the problem but not show up in your diagram. The real fix is a proper grading. One problem with your approach, so far, is that you're asking contractors -- who may not have expertise in grading and only know how to put "band-aids" on the problem -- to design a solution for you. Each contractor will likely have a slightly different solution so it will be hard to compare one proposal to the other. And since there is no promise of being paid for the design work, the effort might not be 100%. Another problem is that the band-aids may work for a time but have failure potential. (Power can fail in a storm so sump pumps may not work ... and drains clog, especially during storms. Or a monster rain can simply overwhelm the system.) The real solution is proper grading so you need someone who is capable of creating a grading plan ... a drainage engineer, landscape architect, or possibly a grading contractor. If it turns out re-grading is too expensive, you may need to opt for the "band-aid" approach.