Apricot and mauve aren't very heat-loving for the most part and roses in containers during 100+F need to be nearly bullet-proof. You don't say which rose society list you're looking at nor when you tried to purchase the recommended roses. The only nursery in Phoenix still selling very many roses is Berridges, 4700 block east Camelback. The others may have a few roses left from the winter stock but they aren't expecting shipments again til cooler weather this fall. Roses need large containers. Bigger the rose, bigger the container needed. Climbers, grandifloras and most OGRS aren't recommended for containers. Some floribundas, minis, minifloras and a few smaller HT's may be ok for up to 3 years, depending on size of container. A Just Joey would need something about 30x36" to grow to maturity. Sunset Celebration is a little smaller but should be in a 24-26" pot. Marilyn Monroe does very good in our climate but would need the bigger size. Apricot floribundas are 'apricot' in the eyes of the beholder, IMO. I've got Fragrant Apricot and would suggest at least a 26" pot. Mauve roses really don't like our brand of heat but I've had good luck with Midnight Blue, Angel Face and Love Potion in containers (limited time). Right now, I've got an Outta the Blue waiting for a winter planting. She'll have been containered about 2 years at that point. This year Heirloom goes to the dumpster. All five Phoenix-area rose societies have websites and at least 2-3 of them have recommended roses for this area. Best time to purchase is mid-December thru late April for best selection.

I planted a Little John Bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus) at the end of my Iceberg rose hedge. I'm hoping it will provide color at a time when my Icebergs look like sticks. It requires little water once established and is hardy from zones 8 to 11. I think it will work out well, because plants in my area need to be able to take a bit of frost and plenty of heat.

The USDA hardiness zones only apply to expected winter cold temperatures. They have nothing to do with how well a plant can tolerate summer heat or humidity. Assigning a hardiness range is meaningless.....if they will withstand a zone 4 winter, then of course they will withstand a zone 9 one!! To determine if a plant is able to withstand your summer conditions, you need to look at other sources.......like the heat zone map. Or even better for your situation, the Sunset Western Garden Book. Nepeta x faassenii 'Walker's Low' is suitable for ALL Sunset zones (as are most other species and hybrids of Nepeta). 'Walker's Low' is a little misleading in its name :-) It is not low growing at all (named after the garden in England where it was discovered) but rather a big, vigorous plant, typically growing to 3' tall and as wide. There are other cultivars that would be more suitable for a groundcover or low growing edging plant. I'd look at 'Litte Titch', 'Little Trudy', 'Purrsian Blue', 'Cat's Meow' or 'Junior Walker'. And it enjoys full sun and does well in dry, xeric gardens once established.

@Yardvaark firstly, I can't thank you enough for taking the time to shop that out so I could see it and thoroughly explain your feedback, I really appreciate it. Second, I do have some follow up questions to your post, but if you don't have the time/desire to reply, I do completely understand. I am just grateful for the initial feedback and I don't want to capitalize on anyone's time. Regarding our existing elm tree...I'm totally seeing the need to limb this up but I admit it's also very scary as I don't want to damage the tree. We inherited it this way as the previous owners did minimal maintenance. I am frustrated because I asked the certified arborist we hired what approach we should take with this tree and she told me that trees like this should only be minimally pruned with the smallest cuts possible and you never want to take large limbs out. But looking over these pictures my eyes are opened to how ridiculously large it looks covering our deck! I am afraid that the limb to the right you mentioned, however, is integral the tree at this point and don't want to totally stress it. I wonder if we could keep these limbs but really thin them up? Is that even a thing? I can have someone else out to take a look. Harder right now as we are in lock down. We were also told never to prune our elm after March 31st to avoid attracting the beetle that can spread dutch elm disease, so I'm afraid we have to wait until next year to fix this either way! Here is a picture of the elm closer up: And from the backside of the tree, note the left limb that is the right side from the street view is pretty connected to the main trunk: And regarding the street tree and redbud on left, from the placement in your mock up that's pretty spot on to where I was imagining them, so I'm happy I'm on the right track there. I am, however having second thoughts about the redbud only because upon seeing it I wonder if a tree there would block too much of the house creating something similar to what I'm currently dealing with on the right (albeit smaller scale with the size of the Redbud vs Elm). I'm really intrigued by your suggestion to curve the walkway, as this section has been totally stumping me. My husband strongly objects to curves because of our houses squared edges, but I am trying to show him the value of juxtaposition and contrasting lines. I agree with not wanting to close in the sides of the walkway, although I'll admit I was considering adding a front border at the street and planting there, so I'll definitely reconsider this. The one thing I'm not sure of though is continuing the pavers in the planting area in front of the courtyard. I've had my mind set on creating a little separation and privacy in this area as right now we are super exposed to our street. I want to sit out here and see my neighborhood but not be totally open to it, if that makes sense. I envisioned plantings in front of the courtyard that would create this soft separation, my husband has even suggested a low fence. So I don't know if I love the whole area being hardscaped. I tried a photoshop app on my phone so please forgive my shoddy attempt at this, but this is what I had in mind for that dirt area in front of the courtyard (not these specific plantings, but something mixed like a low grass, perennial shrub, and maybe dwarf evergreen shrub. Keeping things 3-4' max height and natural looking). I would wrap it around the whole courtyard towards the house and in front of the left brick wall. The dirt area here separating the courtyard from the walkway is 5' deep: But this is where I'm not sure if the Redbud would block off that left side too much. I think I would love the view from inside, but street view does it cover this side of the house? And then I thought well what if I didn't do the Redbud there, but maybe a cedar screen with some plantings so it's less of an obstruction but still living: I had really wanted to put a Redbud somewhere, just love them. Maybe in the center with the screen in the courtyard? But from straight on, I'm afraid it would block the front door too much. I cheated it left and forward a little here, but maybe that doesn't matter.. And finally (yes!) do you have any other alternatives to grass in that middle section? I was hoping to remove the grass for something less water heavy since we are keeping the other lawn areas. I was also wanting to alleviate the water hitting the hardscape so much when watering as we have hard water and calcium deposits abound. But if the lawn would really be best to tie in the two sides of our property, so be it. It's already irrigated anyway! I know this is so much info. I am trying to be thorough but also without expectation as I understand this is a lot. We have already spent money on a consult and design advice with the arborist/designer so I was just hoping to have a better picture before paying for more. Thank you again!