On the Scaphosepalum verrucosum, I bought this plant from SBOE over 10 years ago and it has been in continuous bloom ever since. The flowers are small so their biomass compared to the rest of the plant is negligible. I never considered removing them. We all know that Dendrobium cuthbersonii blooms for up to 9 month. I know that Tom Perlite removes flowers from weak plants but ignores strong, robust plants and lets them do their thing. The new member of that group of 'always in bloom' plants is a gigantic Pleurothallis titan which is really coming into it's own. I got it almost 2 years ago, it made it's first flower 1 1/2 years ago and it has not been without flower since then. Now it's making 2 to 3 three foot tall leaves larger than an outstretched hand every month and has 4 to 5 flowers most the time. I wonder how big this monster is going to get? I have gotten trades and even purchases where a big selling point is that the division I'm getting is in bud. The first thing I do is to remove the bud as soon as I get the plant. Divided, transported, repotted in a different environment and on top of all that it should bloom? Maybe asking a little bit much. Nick

Try to put the pot in the shade and wait until the seed spout and become a little more mature before putting it in your deck. If you have no where to put it try sowwing it indoor before bring it out. I put mines in a water bottle fill with soil and let it sit next to my window.

Jan, Great looking plant! I went and moved mine into more sunlight, it seems to have more space between leaves so figured it could use more. I've been slowly moving some from their shaded spot so the move won't be a shock. Mine has grown a lot this summer and is getting a nice full look but no sign of buds yet. Jo

Hello, Jim. They definitely look normal from a bloomage standpopint! No need to worry about that. My first thought when reading your message was iron chlorosis but your pictures clearly show that the veins are not dark green but light greenish. Then I observed that the leaves in direct contact with the sun are a lighter shade of green than those leaves in the interior. It is hard to tell if that is caused by shade in the picture or not but, it made me think of sunscorch. When the leaves in direct contact with the sun get too much sun, they turn a lighter green and eventually look all yellowish (including the leaf veins). Down here in Texas, I provide shade starting around 11am to 12pm to prevent that. But I once had a storm damage a tree that provided shade to the leaves and had to dream a contramption to give them shade. I would not use the fertilizer for this problem. Generally speaking, fertilizer applications on stressed plants are not recommended. Besides, hydrangeas are not heavy feeders. In the northern half of the country, you can do with one application in June (I am guessing that is where you are located); see the link below. A cup of compost, composted manure or cottonseed meal per application should be enough. Have you ever had a soil test done? Soil tests can indicate mineral defficiencies that can make the leaves turn yellow and which are not easily diagnosed by us gardeners. For example, nitrogen deficiency can make old leaves turn yellow too. Luis Here is a link that might be useful: Fertilzing hydrangeas