Brick paver flooring for kitchen - pros and cons
onerae
14 years ago
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4boys2
14 years agoplllog
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Pros and Cons of Travertine Flooring
Comments (0)I'm considering travertine tile for my kitchen floor. Please tell me about your experience with travertine. Is it durable? Will I have trouble if I fail to reseal it every year, or if I fail to clean up spills promptly? Do I need to buy filled travertine for comfort and to avoid dirt accumulation, as well as enlarging holes? Will filled, honed travertine be slippery when wet? My second choice is hardwood. I could refinish the 17 year-old oak (2.25 inch strips, lower grade, currently with water damage) that is in the kitchen now, or I could replace it with a nicer hardwood. How does travertine compare to hardwood for a kitchen flooring? Thanks....See MoreEngineered Hardwood floors?? Pro/Cons??
Comments (2)Here you go! I (we) as a company research this more than you can ever imagine. There are a lot of know it alls regarding this, but I am here to tell you that each manufacturer takes a different stand on this. Exotics are basically out. I would recommend a locking floating styled engineered and you must must must must do your research as to which brand and species in that brand will work with the type of radiant heat you are using. Radiant heat zaps out the moisture in wood causing gigantic contraction of the wood in the heating months. You must maintain some humidity in the air. This does not mean you can not, but please do your due diligence in choosing a store to purchase it from and you must deal with an expert who will give you in writing specifications on the product you are buying that it will work with radiant heat. Engineered wood is much structurally stable than solids, thus why it is more conducive to radiant heating. Laminate flooring is always a safer bet, but you do concede some realism with the product, but will not show abrasions in an active household like real wood will. Much to consider and do some darn good research and work with an independent flooring store that has an expert working inside the walls. Then you will be happy when it is all said and done. Do not trust an installer for advice as most are not schooled well enough on the technical aspects. Ask an expert, then give the installation instructions to the installer or just keep the selling store on the hook for all of it. Words to the wise. Good Luck....See MoreGeowood Floors. Pros and cons?
Comments (37)Hi @bignogginsfarm, This will be a little long, so bear with us! haha 1. Engineered oak, maple, hickory etc – This is our Odyssey and Meritage Collections. - Odyssey is a UV Cured Oil finish flooring. It does require specific care and maintenance by using the WOCA family of products. It is engineered flooring, meaning the veneer is oak, maple or hickory, but the core or bulk of the floor is a birch layered core. The Birch allows for sustainability in sourcing and stability in installation. It is warrantied for above grade and below grade applications, meaning this can be installed in a basement. It is 5 ½ inches wide which tends to be very popular right now in the flooring industry. This flooring is considered a traditional engineered flooring, wood veneer on top of a wood core. - Meritage is another traditional Engineered flooring collection we carry. It has a 7 layer aluminum oxide finish. It is a veneer of European Oak on top of a core of Acacia. It is warrantied for above and below grade applications. These planks are 9 ½” wide and can only be glued or nailed down. It cannot be floated due to the size of the planks. 2. Fossilized Eco-engineered bamboo & eucalyptus (Engineered Bamboo and Eucalyptus flooring) - Our Engineered Bamboo and Eucalyptus flooring has a 13 layer aluminum oxide finish that is scratch resistant. Engineered products are more dimensionally stable than solid floors because the core creates a more stable product. The Bamboo or Eucalyptus veneer is attached to a eucalyptus cross constructed core giving it stability and durability. The product is also warrantied for above and below grade applications, meaning this can be installed in a basement. This flooring is considered a traditional engineered flooring, wood veneer on top of a wood core. 3. Geowood Oak and Geowood Bamboo – Our Geowood Collections. - Geowood is a collection of Composite Engineered Wood Flooring. This means that real wood is only on the wearable surface. The core of our Geowood products is a limestone composite tile. This makes the floor more water resistant than other engineered floors while still giving you a real wood floor. It has a 7 layer aluminum oxide finish and is warrantied for below and above grade applications. This floor can only be floated or glued as the mechanism is made out of stone and is a click lock. This would be considered the most stable engineered product we sell due to the stone core. All 3 products are engineered flooring, just with different characteristics and qualities. The most important thing to consider when deciding between one of these is your lifestyle. For example, the Odyssey Collection flooring does have specific care and maintenance and only certain products can be used when cleaning it. For our other engineered collections we recommend using Bona Professional to clean our floors, but if there’s another hardwood floor cleaner you prefer to use we recommend testing it in a small area and reaching out to the manufacturer to make sure that it is safe to use with an aluminum oxide finish. Our products can be installed in any home so long as the humidity and climate of the home are maintained to our specifications. Our installation guides go over all the required humidity levels for a home and acclimation time is required. The installation guides also list requirements for T-molds in doorways in floated applications. If you choose to glue or nail your floor down, no T-molds are required. We hope this helps!...See MoreEagle Eyes Needed! Pros & Cons of Floor Plans
Comments (12)Version 1- This the least invasive option and most economic. With that being said it seems to be the most cumbersome for traffic flow from the garage to the kitchen (i.e. carrying an arm full of groceries through 4 doorways). Version 2- This is like you stated, probably your most expensive option. Water and air both can be pushed (I am assuming the heat is in the cement but maybe it runs through the ceiling) to the new locations but unfortunately drains have to have fall to do their job. I'm sure your designer/ contractor will explain this. with the amount of drains being moved there is a possibility that a pump may need to be added to the system to evacuate the waste water which will add to the cost of the project. Version 3- This would be my pick. The sink that is added in the breeze way may be able to utilize the drain in the HVAC closet for the condensate drain saving you money as well as the drain for the washer. I hope this helps....See Moresabjimata
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