Truck is running after charging the battery. Radio didn't sound weak (didn't check lights) but just not enough to turn over. DH cut 6 ft hoops out of the 9AWG wire and I got bird netting up over the strawberries (going to be a pain to get in there, we put so many pegs in to hold it into the ground and keep critters out). Pulled a bunch that strayed, waiting to hear if my cousin wants them, if not I might pot them up tomorrow to sell ? DD helped me pot up a couple dozen cherry toms that were outgrowing the 7206 (is that the right term?) 6 packs. DS helped DH put up the deer netting around the garden - DH put in T posts and cable-tied the ENT to them, but since he expanded the garden the 100ft we had from 2 years past wasn't enough. Only need 30ft more and I didn't want to cut the 100ft roll I bought at HD the other day so we just knocked off to clean up and run to local ice cream shop for burgers and cones before DS has another Scout thing. I swear he's got something going every night! Still waiting to get pix from guy who has the PVC fencing on CL. But the T posts with ENT will be fine for this year, not sure we should leave the netting (or the ENT?) out over the winter but not going to pull the T posts now. DH was cursing - I guess they don't have rocks in TX?! If I don't order from Farmtek or figure something by the time kale, etc. is ready to go in (tonight is 1st night outside) I'll just put up the 100 ft I have overlapping 70ft of it so I don't have to cut it - we'll probably expand the house garden more in the future, seems we do every year. Just means DH has to put in 2-6 more T posts ;-)

For everything I have read, yes it makes sense that the orange wire replaces the white wire for a heat pump configuration. The white wire is used to turn on the furnace for heat, and the yellow wire enables the condenser for cooling. But you have a heat pump, therefore when you are in heating mode, the thermostat will turn on the condenser (yellow), but it must also enable the reversing valve in the proper direction. The orange wire is used to control the reversing valve. Call the Hunter technical support line at 1-888-830-1326 from 8am to 5pm Central time. They should be able to review this with you and guide on which thermostat is appropriate for your set up.

The problem with remote power for LV lighting is the requirement to use "approved methods" for concealed wiring (like anything in the structure). This leads to the use of relatively large cables, since the most common methods use nothing smaller than #14 wire. There are some allowances for LV wiring, but it is VERY power limited (like thermostats and doorbells). High power LV lighting (like that needed for LV lighting) is NOT low power. It is actually easier in many cases to use multiple small power supplies to drive LV lights. This allows the concealed wiring to be 120 VAC wiring (and there are multiple type allowed) while the LV wiring is NOT concealed in the structure (it is often on the bottom of the cabinets). This also greatly reduces the voltage drop in the LV wiring. It is a real issue when even a 10 W lights is puling 0.83 amps @ 12 V, and a 20 W is 1.7 amps. The low voltage also makes even minor drops have a large affect on brightness and color.

Image by: Yukon_Gold Stove Element Heart Stove Element Copper Wire Heart Member Yukon_Gold doesn't let any good junk pass her by, here a rose heart she made from a burnt-out stove element: Just can't throw the stuff out--this time, used the following materials: 1) The good old left over electrical Romex 12/2 copper wire (still have tons left) from ours and now somebody else's electrical projects; and 2) A nonfunctional electric oven baking element that blew just before Easter dinner needed to be cooked. We got to go out for dinner (heh, heh). Replacement element cost $40, so the old one HAD to be recycled by me. Just squished the bottom connector tabs together to hold bottom to a pointed shape, the rest was as you see it. It made a nice, strong framework for the copper wire designs. Of course, as I was staring at the blown-out element after my husband replaced it, I heard him say quietly, "Oh, no! I just knew you were thinking of making something with it." Sure enough... The wire gauge is 12, which is a little heavy, but I've gotten used to it. Plus it stays put when stressed. Got my hands on some 14, but I keep going back to the 12, it seems to be larger and more visible from a distance. It's limited for more intricate shapes, and most beads don't fit on it. To strip, I use a box cutter carefully: A) If you are using Romex electrical wire pieces, there are 3 copper wires in there, one wrapped in paper and 2 wrapped in plastic. I hold the Romex flat and put it on a heavy piece of cardboard to avoid damage to the table, then carefully slice the covering and remove. B) Then for the individual plastic coated wires, I put an old magazine over my knee for protection, put the wire on my knee at the 2 o'clock position, then I hold the boxcutter at a slight angle with my right hand putting pressure on the wire covering with the blade, then I slowly draw the wire through with my left hand as the blade cuts a side of the plastic. I can do about 10-12" per tug. I do not remove the plastic cover until I have the whole wire length completely opened on the one side, then I pop it off. I've done up to 15 feet of wire this way. Make sure the box cutter has a newer, good blade or you'll be chopping little pieces off instead which is tedious. My personal favorite is the swirl shape, like concentric circles, only continuous. Like acorkscrew piggy tail, then flattened. I could see some of these inside the star, kind of swirling-planet look alikes. Have fun. P.S. There are two v-shaped attachments on the upper back of the element which will hang it perfectly (those were the legs that held the element off the bottom of the oven). Actually, I've been thinking of screwing it to the edge of a wooden flower box or deck edge, there are also two metal tabs with holes about 6" from the bottom on the back for doing that (those were the metal tabs that screwed the element to the back of the oven box).