Hubby is a commercial chemical applicator (I know, it seems wrong but you gotta do what you gotta do). I've asked him this question before. kimmsr is right, if you can mulch them for a while at least it is better for the lawn. It keeps the fertilizer on the lawn where you intended it in the first place. But if you absolutely want to compost them, you can do it safely. From my experience, backed up by hubby's training, if you have a hot pile you are good to go. If you have a passive or cold pile then you should probably let the compost cure. What I mean is don't use it right away - maybe this fall or next year. You can also mulch garden pathways with it or under trees/shrubs. If it is too soon after broadleaf killer and you mulch under something like tomatoes, it could harm them. But next to something like corn it is okay. (Tangent warning: I mulched with treated grass about 17 years ago. I put it under corn and tomatoes. The corn in the row that got mulched was easily 2x taller, healthier, and more productive than the un-mulched corn. However, the tomatoes had a hard time setting fruit.) You can even compost plant material that has been killed with Round-Up. It gets into the plant through the leaves. Once it has dried and has absorbed, it won't transfer to another plant around it or into the soil. You can actually spray an area one day and plant new plants in it the next day. Some people are anti-chemical no matter what. They won't even put shredded office paper in compost because of the ink/toner. You can do it but what it comes down to is a personal choice.

Throwing away grass clippings and then buying peat moss is something I see people do all the time because they have been taught, wrongly, that the grass clippings are a waste product rather than a valuable resource. Grass clippings should be recycled from where they came. mulch mowed back into the lawn where they can provide up to 1/2 the annual Nitrogen needs of the lawn, used as a mulch around plantings to help conserve soil moisture, suppress unwanted plant growth, etc., or composted. Grass clippings should never be thrown away. Even if the grass has grown quite tall proper mowing techniques can be used to mulch mow that grass. If when mowing the cut grass clumps then the mower is moving too fast, or possibly the grass is too wet to mow. The forward speed of the mower needs to be matched to the mowers capability to process the cut grass.

To grow a good stand of grass, or most any other plant, you want a soil pH in the 6.2 to 6.8 range because that is where most all soil nutrients are most readily available. 5.9 is a bit low so adding the right lime, calcitic or dolomitic, can help your overall program. Put on compost, or shredded leaves, or something similar, preferably not the bark because that is just not something the soil bacteria will easily digest unless you have a good, healthy soil already. Sand, becasue of the large particle size, does not cause soil compaction, although small amounts mixed with clay can cause clay to bind more tightly together. That is why few of the Ag Research Stations recommend adding sand unless you add at least 45 percent by volume (an extremely large amount of sand). Since this is to be a lawn I'd not be concerned about the Potassium level, once sufficient quantities of organic matter are in the soil that will come up, in my experience. Once your have sufficient levels of organic matter in your soil compaction will not be a problem, so you should only need to aerate this once even though it can take a few years to get sufficient levels of organic matter intothe soil. Rototilling your lawn will leave you with large, bare areas for some time. Properly amending the soil will get grass, as long as what you have is what you want, growing faster. Whether rototilling the grass you have into the soil or not is good or not so good is always the question. Some grass species are very invasive and rototilling can often simply spread the grass roots around and give you more grass, but the grass does add organic matter, so it depends on which grass type you have nad how much future work you want to do. With my Quack Grass simply rototilling creates much more future work, because of the amount of grass that will grow back, than covering the area with newspaper and a mulch material which will kill the existing grass and most of the roots, even though I know I will still get some of that grass growing in that bed in the future. However, the soil is workable enough that pulling those grass plants and roots is very easy. Often a cover crop, of one of those cover crops with allelopathic (plant growth suppression properties) properties can help.

E6000 glue I have a fused glass piece that is glued to a nightlight. ( are these the ones? ) link below Here is a link that might be useful: Link