I've made this color when we used to have Behr!

However, this time, it isn't the paints fault.
This color should've been sold with a med-dark GRAY primer.

These kinda colors are very sheer, and need the help of a dark primer.
The darker bands are where, in essence, you have 2 coats...
1 coat as you cut in,
2nd coat formed as you overlapped the cut-in, but main area has 1.

I wouldn't have let anybody out the door without a Gray primer for this color!
I'm surprised they gave a refund!

I could explain more about these kinda colors if ya want...

Faron

If the inside of the bookcase was being painted all the same color (cherry cobbler) one way this could have worked for you and still have maintained the same significance of order and uniformity you could have taken a small whizz fabric roller or one of the small 4" pro-dooz's and dutchrolled the top areas and used also for the verticals. Works everytime and to also include you could have taped off the adjacent corners so there would not have been any overlap - remove tape from the unpainted side and continue painting the bookcase.

Reds that are mixed with organic machine tints such as your magenta or bright red, one needs to think about using a medium gray primer for all of their projects. What you are lacking in the base can of that particular starting paint is titanium dioxide. Using oxide reds you can get by just painting over another color or have your primer tinted to as close of that color, but not your transparent reds with magenta or some red tints.
It is not the paint, just the nature of the makeup of the formula to that particular color.

I would scrap the Behr and the grey primer and go buy some BM Aura. Sure, it is more expensive but you are going to save yourself several coats of paint and have a more durable, long lasting finish in the end.

All - before I took the paint back, I put a third coat on the book case crown moulding. I had some overlap there and the third coat did not cover. The color was slightly darker, but you could still see through to the overlap area from earlier coats. Is this because the base tint was not dark enough?

What Paintguy said.
Reds are notoriously difficult-it takes MANY coats to even approach even coverage with most paints.
BM Aura is lightyears better than anything else when using a red tone. No priming necessary-2 coats and DONE. Depending on the size of the piece a QUART of Aura might get the job done for about the same cost as that gallon of Behr with a better result and a ton of time saved.

I would take back the paint. Sounds very similair to a problem I had when I was painting my bedroom and orange color.

It was not applying properly, and like you said seemed somewhat transparent. I painted the whole room 2 coats and it was not 'coloring right' due to the tranparency. (what a waste of effort)
I brought the paint back got a new free can and it was a world of difference.
I would call home depot asap.
Good luck -

Just more testimony about the inconsistency of behr paints!

"better to leave the walls bare than put Behr on the walls"

Gonna paint? Behr stay away from home depot!

I will ditto the anti behr sentiment. My inlaw wanted to do the lower half of his finished basement walls in Red....bought 2 gallons form SW....after 4 gallons it was just starting to cover. My union painter fatherinlaw disagreed with the tint base SW used which is what I think the prior post was trying to say.

I guess th BM dealer would have likely caught this before the dude at HD but that is not the paint's fault. I guess the SW dealer was no better than HD.

Dwalls is EXACTLY correct on this...

Since I directly tint a LOT of Reds/Magentas..."I know-eth of what I speak"! (wow...!)

If you shake up a Neutral/Ultra-deep/Base-4/Deep tint-base WITHOUT COLORANT, the result is the same...
THEY'RE ALMOST CLEAR WHEN DRY.

Now...add fairly transparent colorants, like Magenta or shades of Red...the result doesn't get much better.

Depending on the specific color, some formulas add a little White (Titanium-dioxide). This helps some with TRANSPARENCY, BUT...it can "mute" some reds-meaning it can lend a "pinkness", if enough is added back in.

I've seen some horse-**it paintjobs done by "painters", union or not, who thought "they know it all".

(Funny side-story----Last June, I painted DD's Bedroom to C2's Impeccable. A DeepGoldyBrown! Used a tinted primer, and good technique. Looks beeeeutiful!
This fall, a "painter who's been painting for 25 yrs." was using this exact paint/color in a big Dental-Suite. Our other Paint Mgr. went over to look at it after they complained about the "streakiness". He said his jaw hit the floor! The "painter" was doing such a crappy job, that our guy had to SHOW HIM how to do this color. By then, a small crowd had developed around this!!!
"The painter" was kinda ticked..."I've been painting for blah-blah-blah...". Welllll, he wasn't nearly as good as HE thought...!!!)

As I stated, I've literally made that color b4, and I wouldn't have let them out the door without a GRAY primer, and advice about technique used on top of the primer.

Faron

So what's your take on behr paints, Faron?

I'm not Faron, but as far as using "Behr Premium Interior" on customer's walls- I haven't found any issues as of yet and I only use the flat enamel or eggshell.

Is there a better quality paint- Yes- BM

Faron, some of the sheer reds also start out with a red base, and aura mixed in some of the saturated colors will call for the red or yellow undercoater first.

Uffda...
Got back in after some more snow-scraping!

Red-bases...ACE has had Red & Yellow-bases for years now also, for some of the REEEEAL vibrant Reds & Yellows.
Couple years ago, all the sheens were made available in R/Y bases. For a while, only ACE-Royal Satin had that choice.
>>> I'll still take a shade of gray under MOST of these type colors. IF however, it's a LEMON yellow, or Basketball orange, then I'd use a 75% formula into a deep-tint primer.

Behr...I have no problems with. It's a great upper/"mid-tier" paint, like ACE-Royal. We instructed some people how to use paints correctly though!
>>> We discontinued Behr when we moved to our new store.
HD obviously had Behr, and there were other "behind-the-scenes" issues. We also wanted to really separate ourselves from the "big-box" competition...
>>> C2 was decided on, since it was something NOBODY else in the region could get into...$$$. We were a little nervous about getting into the $40+/gal. paint arena, but it's doing nicely! Once I used it, that's all it took to convince ME anyway...!
>>> So, in Fargo, there's TWO heavy-hitters...C2 & BM's Aura!
>>> The HD doesn't seem to have much RL on their salesfloor...hardly any! I'll bet we go thru 3x the RL compared to them.

(ooooppps...sorry....I'm rambling now....!)

Faron

Thanks, We are limited to home depot or ace 12 miles away. Other than that, the next source for bm,dunn edwards, sw,etc is about 80 miles away. I've had ups and downs with behr due to inconsistency. Keeping it local, im going to give ace a try if i take on another paint project. Last time was at the owners insistence to go with behr, one for a "special" and the other because they already had purchased it. One i had good luck with, the other took a third coat after primer, (4 coats total). Both were exterior premium plus. Other behr experiences in the past concerning interior were inconsistent as well. That's why im kinda negative towards behr because at least out here, you gamble on what you get. With paints, that shouldn't be a concern. There should be consistency.

Hey Guys don't bad mouth the stores that carry behr paint
Cherry Cobbler. I have my whole kitchen/dinning room in that color as well as an adjacent room on the fireplace.

People absolutely love the color. I complimented it with sage green and beiges.

The only thing with this paint is you have to apply at least five coats to get the true cherry cobbler. It is well worth the time and trouble. It also look good with black and white .

I would do it all over again if I had to.

Hope this will be of some help. I didn't use a primer either

Just roll from top to bottom with out lifting the roller and don't press to hard let the paint just flow. Cut in then roll each time you make a pass it works.