Ceramic tile countertops
lavender_lass
12 years ago
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kateskouros
12 years agoStephanie H
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Ceramic Tile countertops anyone?
Comments (24)Thanks, Prill! I'm glad you found the preview because I know you've been waiting. I don't want to be hijacking the thread but I thought it might be useful to Gopintos and others to see the progress since R. asked. Rosie, thanks so much! How many patterns and designs is a good question! The order took 16 pages and in this picture you can't really see the window casings, gumdrops (garden window), flowers (outdoor), etc. They're grouting now. I will tell you that the tile cost more than stone would have, and the expert tile setters who worked with me, cutting one piece at a time to fill the angles so I could see the flow, don't come cheap. But the really important part is that this is handmade but extremely high quality tile. It doesn't break, or shatter, though the large pieces do come out of true because they shrink funny sometimes when they're drying (as they're being made). The grout lines are therefore wobbly. That's part of the look of handmade tiles, and not for people who want things to line up just so. Because I have such quality experts they were able to set them closer than they expect to be able to do with handmade. If you want to discuss custom tiling more we can start another thread about it. To the topic at hand, my point about the grout lines is that where they're a little wider in spots they're even less likely to catch food. Setting countertop tiles closer together than 1/8" is not a good idea for that reason. Closer than 1/16" and they can't even get the grout in properly. But when I say cleaning the grout is easy, I meant for people who clean. When I make these statements I forget that there are people who just want it to look clean and want counters and floors where the dirt doesn't show. I got a stark white floor (though with dark green grout to set it off) because I like to be able to see the dirt to make spot cleaning easier so I don't have to haul out the mop just when I dribble a little on an otherwise clean floor. I keep a sponge for spot cleaning floors. But for that one has to be able to see the spots!...See Moredyi ss countertops?
Comments (25)Speaking from my own experience making copper countertops, I'd possibly try to avoid buying the sheets rolled up from online -- my glue has become undone in a few places due to the slight curve that got into the metal's memory when we rolled it up for two weeks' storage before we began the project. It's developed into a few annoying ridges that run the width of the counter. (Either that, or store the rolled sheets weighted flat for quite a while before attaching them.) Eleena, we got the sheet at a local roofing supply store - it's branded by Revere (yes! just like my grandma's RevereWare pans!) and is stored in flat bulk packs. They peel off however many sheets you need. I suspect it wasn't any more expensive than buying online because of saving on shipping costs -- not that I object to using eBay for just about every shopping need, mind you. ;-) Rotometals has some excellent videos on making your own zinc countertops with their very affordable sheet and homemade brakes much like Dando's. The only issue with zinc vs stainless is that, like copper, it will patinate easily with every touch and every substance. You might want to seal zinc if you use it for heavily-used counter areas. Which leads me to a note of possible interest for anyone making their own metal countertops: I recently experimented with a coating called Protect-a-Clear, sealing the sink section where we were getting the most unwanted gunky verdigris. I have to say it's pretty incredible stuff for this purpose. The counters look just like they did before the coating, all the patina preserved, no weird plastic-looking sheath. And they can now just be wiped with a damp cloth, no more scrubbing and scraping with a razor to get the really adhered green-blackened gunk. They claim Protect-a-Clear is food-safe once dry, and I can attest that it has very little odor and is easy to apply. I'll report back with my use experience over the months. As an addendum for those who are making their own copper counters like Dando's amazing ones, I'll link my post detailing the method I used. I did it slightly differently, using mitered bar on the sides so I didn't have to bend the sheet at all, just router it smooth on the sides. I also didn't solder anything, although I definitely applaud that as a best practice and who knows, maybe one day mine will need it. Here is a link that might be useful: my copper counter process...See MoreMarcolo and others...question on kitchen design/style
Comments (7)I think perhaps the rule that you can only look forward with design elements rather than also backwards is a bit too rigid. It's a great rule of thumb that helps eliminate a lot of unfortunate and tacky elements. If no house could ever look backward, however, we wouldn't ever have revival architecture. I think it's more about how you do it. It might be easier with a clothing analogy: Currently wild colored platform shoes are in, so are neon colors, and capes. The shapes of the platforms--I'm talking about the chunky wood ones and rope covered ones, not the upscale upper wrapped over the platform with separate heel ones that are only current--the shapes are very '70's. The colors, however, are early '80's. Put them together and they look now, rather than then. So, you have a great vintage pair of brown leather platforms you want to wear. What do you do? Since the now shapes are the same as your vintage pair, and brown leather truly is timeless, in a way that few other things are, you can do it. Especially if you aren't wearing suntan pantyhose (way too '70's). OTOH, '70's style carved grain platforms with french blue ribbon ties might still work as a vintage statement in a thrift shop chic kind of way, but they're never ever going to look anything but way, way, out. They're the wrong shape, the wrong color, and the wrong aesthetic, and are going to totally clash with neon, even though what they're showing now is much easier to wear than '80's style, "friends don't let friends wear neon." If you just lift a Victorian leaded window and plunk it down in the middle of a '20's fest, it'll look out of place. However, if it looks like something the '20's lady might have found as a salvage piece and thought would go with her decor, you're probably just fine....See MoreHELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Paint colors help needed!
Comments (4)I have sage greens in my house also. They go real well with Golds. We are still painting so please excuse mess. These are all BM colors. Hallway Flowering Herbs and Guesthouse Here is a picture of a spare bedroom in Twilight Gold (very nice color) Please excuse mess this has been the ketch all room during painting. I plan to make it a guest room or sitting room but for now we just painted it. LR and DR Guesthouse Kitchen and Hallway Flowering Herbs Baby turtle starts over Powder Room and extends to adjoining Family Room Powder Room will be Wilmington Tan which is a great color too but that room is not painted yet. Adjoining Family room Baby Turtle and all ceilings Barely Beige. Woodash is one shade lighter than BB it is very nice too. Hope that helps...See Moremtnrdredux_gw
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