"has a light honey stain with a varnish."
Did you tell BM that????
Very well may be polyurathane or some type factory finish not intended to be removed/refinished. You must always know what surface finish you have before starting. I suuggest removing a door and taking it to the paint store. We could start guessing and testing but what's the need when you can just as easily place it in the hands of someone who can test for themselves.
BTW,Paso is a brand name not a type product.

How long did you let it CURE before the scratch test?
Also did you rinse the tsp 3 or 4 times?

I actually did not tell BM that it was a varnish, I actually took a sample drawer in for them to look at and that is what they advised. You are right it may not bee varnish, they actually did not say it was, just made recommendations. I let the primer cure for 24 hours. I only rinsed the TSP once with warm water. We did a test drawer that we sanded down almost to bare wood and the primer sticks like glue after only 6 hours. I see hours of sanding in my future and a return of the deglosser.

I think sanding is the way to go, forget the de glosser, but you certainly do not have to get it down to bare wood. Most likely the whole problem was that the tsp left a film because it was not rinsed enough

Liquid-Deglossers.....Ugh....

I actually DISCOURAGE people from buying that crap!!
(I've been in retail paint for 12+ years now, at a busy/upscale independent hardware store)

Why?
1) The solvent-based deglossers are VERY high in VOC-Vapors, & other fumes that many people should avoid.
2) Worse yet...it only provides a TEMPORARY benefit!! Whatever you can't get primed or painted in 30min, must be redone, because the "benefit" of the "temporarily tacky" surface is lost in that time-frame!!
3) So why in God's name would you expose yourself to those fumes, ESPECIALLY when the SLIGHT benefit of it LITERALLY EVAPORATES quickly? AND....it probably have to be repeated!!!!

>>> The ACTUAL PHYSICAL PROFILE created by sanding is INFINITELY better than the temporary tackiness of LS.
>>> All you need to do is an even, thorough "scuff-sanding", making the surface "evenly dull".
>>> You DON'T have to sand all the way thru!!!
>>> Remove ALL dust, and prime/paint away!
>>> Sanding isn't HALF as hard as people make it out to be.
>>> Plus...it's very "green". Little dust is created, & is easily handled with a good mask.
>>> Do appropriate LEAD_TESTING in older homes.

Also:
Many primers "bonding-strength" to any substrate, & to the paint topcoats, improves over a week-or-two. Anybody doing a fingernail-scratch test clearly knows nothing about the properties of these types of coatings.

Faron

This was the feedback I was sent from BM representative.... "If the preparation was done correctly then move forward. Primers and paint will not fully harden in 24 hrs. I could take 3-4 weeks to fully cure. So yes it should be easy after 24 hrs to remove the primer"

So that being said, we made the executive decision today to sand then apply primer.... bingo, that primer is not going ANYWHERE. Better safe than sorry.