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Sanding, spackling, etc.

17 years ago

In one of my bathrooms, we took down all the mirrors that were flat sheetplate mirror that were attached with "clips" to the wall and removed the light fixtures. Where the light fixtures and mirrors were removed, there is a "border" of yuk. Will spackling and sanding take care of this, or do I need to think about drywall? The new light fixtures and mirrors do not cover it, so I am left with an ugly "border" of the past. Before painting, what do I need to do or is it hopeless and will need drywall?

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Comments (3)

nicollet
17 years ago
Are you talking about a ridge of layers of paint, or a collection of holes where screws went in? If the former, you could try sanding, depending on how built-up it is, but I think a skimcoat of joint compound would be the best. If the latter, depends on your tolerance for imperfections and what gloss you'll be using; for me, patching would suffice, especially with a matte paint, but if you're using glossy paint and want it perfect, new drywall may be your best bet.
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patricianat
Original Author
17 years ago
Thank you, Nicollet. I think we will be doing dry wall. Yes, it is buildup that was collected into a ridge at the edge where mirrors were "attached" to the wall over the years and the "clips" were left in the wall and the paint around them had built up. I guess dry wall is not the worst thing we have had to do. Thanks again.
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Let me see if I can explain this a bit better for you. Do you see a "ridge" where the original tape is? This is what I had invisioned in your first explaination. If that is the case, you don't want any more mud over that ridge. What's going on is that not enough mud was put in on either side of the tape to get a good taper. That may be due to the fact that when the drywall was installed, it's not the meeting of the 2 tapered factory edges. It may be 2 cut edges. Which requires feathering of the mud way far out from the cut edge. So begin the mud right under that ridge. Slap it on a smooth it out some. Then scree it. That will make it perfectly flat. After it dries, you can sand and fill in the little bubbleholes,etc. Good luck. This ain't hard to do at all. And yes---you can continue to refill even after you've primered the wall.
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pretty darn good! I actually used the DryDex instead of joint compound. I did not use a yard stick but the areas were here and there and only 2 feet long. There are two slight imperfections were the texture looks different in the day light. Either poor painting technique or spots I missed. I will wait a few weeks and see if it blends more; in the past, the sheen appeared to tone down after a few weeks with this paint. If I had used flat you probably would never have noticed but its a bath. Its amazing. Now I notice the truely lousy job the did 20 years ago when the home was built. You can actually see uneven putty marks were they attempted to feather throughout the house. Most are not noticable unless you are looking for them I guess. I appreciate the tips!
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Faron79
17 years ago
If it's not too late!!!!!....
>>> Do you mean "tearing-out your drywall" because of some ridges??!! (I know it may be a dumb question!)
>>> As you stated, patch/fill/sand any repair needs.
>>> There are some "spray-can" texture-repair bottles out there. One series is made by Homax.
>>> Regardless if you repair or replace drywall, PRIME the whole area to be painted. This is VERY important for a higher-sheen paint like S/gloss to develope evenly. Apply TWO coats of the actual color too.
>>> P.S. I'd spot-prime any repaired areas, then prime everything so there's 2 coats of primer on the repairs.
>>> If this is a Main-bath, DON'T use flat! Satin or Semi-gloss only.
Thanks,
Faron
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