Step by Step Instruction I found this on a site to help you :) Step 1: Countertop Cut-Out. Use the sink upside down to trace the cut out of the countertop. Use precise measurements. Step 2: Cabinet Cut-Out. Cut the front of the base cabinet according to the front apron of the farm sink. Please note that the front of the sink is slightly tapered. This means that the width of the top is slightly wider than that of the bottom. You should make a template using heavy paper or carton so that your cabinet is cut at the same angle as the sink. Step 3: Supporting the Sink. Mount the undermount installation kit (WHUMSB) to the inner side walls of your cabinet. We then recommend putting plywood on the rods to create a large smooth flat surface. Drill the neccessary drain holes. If you did not purchase the kit you will need to create a custom support using 2x4's. Step 4: Leveling. Slide your sink in and make sure it is leveled on bottom and top. Make adjustments if necessary. Step 5: Sealing. Using a silicone sealer seal all edges of the sink to the countertop to prevent water from leaking into your cabinet. Enjoying. Invite all your friends and family over for dinner and show off your new gorgeous sink! * Recommend purchasing a stainless steel grid to protect your investment. Also here how to maintain your fireclay farmhouse sink... *For normal cleaning, we recommend scrubbing the surface of your fireclay sink using hot water and a soft sponge or cloth with a mild abrasive. Then wipe the entire surface with a dry, clean, soft cloth. *For heavy duty cleaning, and those tough marks, use any general purpose cleaner. The most recommended cleaning product is "Astonish". This can be found in most Super Market chains as well as on eBay! As a cheaper and easier product to find, AJAX works just fine even for those annoying pot marks. *Do not use any metallic wire sponges, this may cause damage to the sinks finish Here is a link that might be useful: How to install a Fireclay Farmhouse Sink

Plumeriavine, I am so sorry you are going through this. I really sympathize with your frustration and I admire you for trying to seek out solutions for the various issues. Some of them are just cosmetic, but many of them are structural and I think it would be good for you to take a step back for a minute and decide if you have the time, energy and experience to determine how to fix each and every problem individually. I'm not a lawyer, but I used to do a lot of contract work in my former job working with lawyers. I want to caution you that once you start developing and implementing your own solutions, you will begin to muddy the waters between what is you KD/installer's issue and what is a result of the fix you implemented. In simple terms, you're taking joint ownership of the problem. If you agree to a specific fix, they will be able to claim that you authorized it and they may be off the hook. As soon as you take ownership of fixing their mistakes, they will hold you accountable if the fixes don't work. It's taken them 6 months to do a horrendous job of installing a poorly designed kitchen. Allowing them to continue to butcher your beautiful cabinets and repair them inch by inch, while you do battle to get everything fixed is a long, long road. Even more complicated is trying to document every issue and every fix needed in an attempt to get a financial settlement out of them. Remember, these are just the issues you know of--there are probably more you haven't discovered yet. I think now is the time to make a firm decision to choose one of the following doors: 1. continue to work with these clowns bandaiding issue after issue, 2. get a thorough evaluation of all the problems by qualified third parties and go to court to get a monetary settlement to complete the job with someone else or 3. have they rip it out, put everything back to where it was and get a full refund. I don't think #1 is an option-you don't trust them and you will take ownership of the problem. And I honestly think that # 3 is a shorter road than #2. I know that's not what you want to hear, but as many have said, the problems are just too massive to think that you have a chance of catching every issue and developing the correct solution. You paid far too much for those beautiful cabinets to accept a hatchet job of an installation. Many years ago we watched as a good friend battled with a builder over their dream house experiencing structural issues. They continued to work with the builder, allowing him to implement solution after solution. In the end, they ended up in court and sold the house back to the builder. The whole process took over 5 years. When it was all over, they wished they had just cut loose from the builder when the problems piled up and moved on. Figure out which option you want to pursue, and put all your energy into that option. If it were me, I'd be headed for door #3.

There is no one answer to your question. The variables are: -- depth of sink front to back -- front panel and sides of sink and whether those permit bumping out (not all farm sink sides are the same nor all the front panels the same) -- way the sink will be mounted under/flush with/or above the counter --interior cabinet construction -- how the faucet operates and how it will be installed. --faucet stem thickness can be an issue or sometimes there is a flange underneath to hold the faucet in place which needs clearance below. Perhaps you are aware that sinks and faucets have specification diagrams (we call those downloads) with all this critical installation information. My suggestion is to download the diagrams for each sink under consideration and read them very carefully. The inside measurements of the sink cannot be used for this purpose -- anyone who tells says such and such is ok without consulting the diagram I wouldn't trust. The person who orders and specifies the cabinets should also be given copies of those sheets as well as all the spec sheets for appliances (you likely know this but just in case). I made a booklet of those for the designer plus 2 others -- one for the plumber and one for the contractor. No one can say they don't have the right info. Likewise, download the spec sheets for any faucet considered. Pay special attention to the thickness of the faucet stem and the way the faucet operates. F.ex. some faucets turn on by pulling sideways but alo need to swivel from front to back to go from cold to hot. There must be enough space behind the faucet to permit that. Or, since you're concerned about leaning in, perhaps it would be a good idea to look at one of the Grohe faucets that can be front mounted -- that is with the control facing in and over the sink. That can be very helpful when space is tight.

I wrote this in the other post (rmkitchen updates) so I'm just copying it over here gglks -- the paint is Aura (Benjamin Moore) Frappe, AF-85. I have to say I haven't noticed any fingerprints on the sink ... but there are water spots (inside and on the rim). But of course, those just wipe right up with a sponge (when I'm so inclined, ha ha!) I'm not a belt-wearer but my husband is, but we also haven't noticed any scratching on the outside of the sink. I just went and double-checked: no fingerprints, no scratches. There are some scratches on the bottom of the (interior of) the sink and, as I wrote, water spots, but other than that, nothing. And I only noticed the scratches because I was just now really looking for blemishes. The sink is Bates and Bates Farmhouse 12 Gauge Satin Stainless Sink.