I have the same problem (new floors will be lower than old carpeted floors and I'm planning to re-use the same baseboards after I paint them). I am trying to do what was recommended here from 11 years ago to get rid of the line and retexture the "Below the belt" area since the baseboards will sit lower. However, I realize this is going to take me weeks by myself and I'll have to finish it up after the guys have installed the new floors, which means I risk messing up my new floors and/or doing all the draping and cleaning that I dread. Sooo... Can I have the floor guys add a piece of trim below my old trim like a shoe edge or quarter round (although i hate the way a quarter round looks). Is there something that anyone would recommend that would not look hideous. Here are photos of the existing trim with my old carpet and a picture of another wall after the carpet and trim were removed. The style of our home is nothing spectacular. It's a basic 90's ranch that we're updating.

If the bubbling then peeled to bare drywall, you simply did not have a good bond. Such spots are often over the mudded seam areas, where sanding dust was not removed, or a good drywall sealer was not properly applied. Where popcorn is removed dry, often a chauky residue is over the whole area. Use of a good drywall sealer is imperative. Cut out the bubbled areas, patch with a couple coats of drywall compound, sand and prime. Then finish coat with a quality paint suitable for baths with showers. Traditionally, higher sheen paints are used in showers because of their higher resistance to humidity.

Looks like wallpaper to me :) I prefer repairs that resemble the original install method but you can also look into specific repair systems with plaster washers, or even use drywall and mud. You'll want to remove all the paper (steamer, or whatever method work ok), and anything loose. A lathe/plaster wall relies on the mechanical hold of "keys" through the lathe. Basically, the scratch coat is pushed through the lathe, and those blobs harden and hold it in place. So, you'll need to remove anything that is cracked and the surrounding area. You'll know you can stop removing once you see the keys through the lathe (ie ones that haven't broken off). The actual repair would be a pretty long post, but your basic options for further googling are: 1. scratch/brown/finish, known as a 3-coat plaster (probably what you have already). Products aren't usually carried at big-box stores, so call around to plaster suppliers or masonry/stucco suppliers. They'll be able to help you with product selection. 2. Drywall patch - a sort of 2-coat plaster system. Cut a drywall patch to fit the new hole (not too thick, might only need 1/4" drywall). Use durabond to mud it in. Finish coat with durabond. 3. Look into repairing with plaster washers (I'm not familiar myself).

This is purely guess but since it already has a bit of a rough texture and since it hasnt yet been sealed, would it make sense to gently sand off just enough to remove the paint.... depends of course on how deep the paint has seeped in. That would avoid risk of a chemical or anything changing the color or messing up the seal coat. Ive been re building my fish pond and chiseling some of the limestone rocks and surprised how soft it is and easily shaped.