Thanks everyone for continuing to provide hints here. I'm still learning what works for me, going slowly and trying different things. :-) I am able to tear away the top decorative surface, as fnmroberts says, so I did that first for a small section, and then taped the plastic as christophern said. For soaking, I had been using a small sprayer and sponge method first, then tried a little Dif (gel) to see if that was easier than the hot water/fabric softener solution. (And I happened to have some of that Dif on hand). No clear winner: the Dif doesn't drip as fast as the water does, but I seem to use too much Dif to get the same peelability--and the water mixture is cheaper. :-) My dad suggested to "paint" the Dif on instead of simply spraying it on, and I might try that as an experiment. I don't mind going slowly and experimenting, as I'm learning as I go. I'm going to have to do more of the house down the road, so might as well practice until I know what works for me. My dad thinks I should rent a steamer and get it done asap, but I think then the floors really would get wet! Thanks again for the tips on protecting the floor!

I guess I'm passe...I only use high gloss because I find chipped up paint on my doors and trim to be a bit passe as well :oP Here's a picture (I'll try to find a few) of my trims...No they're not distracting :) They just look rich IMO: Oh and by the way...the color I'm using (the brown) is the code that is attached to the "exterior" name. I actually have a can of the paint here...It does say it's an interior/exterior paint on the little color label. The actual label of the paint jar says: All Surface Enamel, Acrylic Latex High Gloss. What I have here is a deep base since I'm testing out different dark colors for this house, but it comes in all colors. The jar label is turquoise (blue green) just in case they ask. It's FABULOUS trim paint...I would use NOTHING else an no other sheen if I were you, but then again, I like a classic look on trims and doors and don't follow trends: Pics: In some of these pics there are two colors of trim (we were in the process...still are...of remodeling the entire house and I'd started trim work). It's always the dark tone that's the new paint. The light is horrible orange varnish over oak...and I didn't sand it :) If your painter "won't" paint without sanding using these products, get another one, but if your painter is any good...they'll discuss this with you. My current guy was skeptical and I asked him to try the product and test it. He did so, and agreed to use it after a test. He still would have done it without the test but I had to guarantee it, verses him guaranteeing it as he would normally do using his paints. He likes the product so much he's going to use it on his jobs that insist on latex (he still likes oil based paints). Some of these pics have flash...if there are high points in the lighting, it's the flash or the bright sunshine (we get a lot of sun) so I included different times of day in the pics. I really like the level of sheen but again...I'm a classic, and lazy girl...and only like to paint once LOL. (I'm obsessing on the passe thing....) Look at some high end designer photo's...they're using gloss or oil paints on trim. Apparently passe is in fashion. I think the lower sheens...tend to be more popular with the builder beige sprayed on the walls...lower sheens hide mistakes...higher sheens show errors.

You shouldn't have a problem with latex paint, it does not contain natural rubber. Here is a link that might be useful: Is latex paint safe for people with latex allergies?

Given my choice, I do all my prep in a room first, then paint ceiling, then woodwork, and then paint the walls last. Is much easier to get a razor sharp line at the baseboard to have all caulking and painting of the baseboard done before painting the walls. I blue tape the baseboards using the low tack 3M tape. However, this procedure requires that the walls be painted the following day. Sometimes you don't have the luxury of time. If possible, I prefer to do all painting before new carpeting goes down. I prefer to work after new hardwood floors installation, taking the trouble to completely protect it with rosin paper.