If you want a paint that holds up better than latex but don't want to use oil-based, try 100% acrylic enamel. It isn't sticky like the latex and dries harder - not rubbery like latex.

I don't like BM products for trim or doors because they aren't strong enough. I prefer instead to use Sherwin Williams. In paticular they have a fabulous primer that can be used without any sanding, which is a BIG deal for a good finish. You can paint your heart out with cheap paint and find that while it looks good now...it will literally peel off in a week.

If you click on my name and look at my clippings you'll see (down a bit) the one I posted about the paint I used for my trim. It gives you the products at sherwin williams that I like to use. I also only do trim and doors in gloss if I'm using latex (which I always do) because it's stronger than other sheens). The instructions give color numbers for a brown tinted primer and a deep brown paint. If you take the printed instructions to SW they'll weed out the products from my instructions and mix it in any color you want (the primer is normally white). The primer is KEY to a good finish as well as a high quality brush and patience. I like one coat of primer and two of paint.

igloochic,

Do I really need a primer? The builder put a primer and a top coat of builder paint on the baseboards and doors three years ago. Can't I just paint over what he put on which was latex paint?

I wouldn't personally, but yes I suppose you can. Builder quality primers and paint aren't what I'd consider to be a good foundation for a lasting finish.

Here's the thing....one coat of primer is a very very very small step in the grand scheme of things. It's basically another layer of paint. The primer I suggest is not an oil base, so it's easy to use, and it bonds to anything. You will be guaranteed a strong finish by taking that little step. Yes it's a bit more expensive, but I've made the mistake of painting over paint...and I can tell you...I was HEARTBROKEN when the paint started to come off....literally, I could peel it off in large strips. This after spending weeks painting the entire house's trim and doors.

For me it was a very painful lesson on the value of an excellent primer. I'm just trying to talk you out of that lesson :) If you're going to do this...think of how soon you want to do it again. One good job...or once every year or two job??? (I hate painting trim so I prefer the long lasting job LOL)

igloochic

Thanks for your information. I did check out your paint tips under your name and then I went to the SW web site and there I got a little lost. I tried locating the Preprite Problock Interior/Exterior Latex Primer and all I could find was oil base under that name. Guess I'll have to go to the store and ask more questions.

Second question. In your tips section for painting you talk about using SW Exterior All Surface Glass Enamel. I assume you meant Gloss Enamel. We will be painting all the baseboards, quarter round, door frames, 17 doors (6 panel non wood type), fireplace surround and mantle and two 16 panel glass french doors, three bedrooms, two bathrooms, dining room, living room and sun room trims. I understand that the gloss enamel is great for cleaning but I'm worried about all the gloss being distracting. Any opinion? Value your ideas a whole bunch!

By the way, I'm hiring a painter to do this work. I hope he's not going to give me an argument about the priming. Guess if he does I look for another painter.

Thanks for the help!

jb

I also used the SW Preprite Problock primer for all my painting and even tho you didn't see it on their website, I assure you it does come in a latex. That's what I used. After the priming was done, I used regular latex paint on door and window trim but tried the SW 100% acrylic enamel on the cabinet molding. Comparing the two, I wish I'd used the acrylic enamel on the door and window trim as well because it did dry harder and had much more the look of an oil-based paint but it's still the easy water clean-up. But maybe that's just a matter of personal preference - the latex turned out all right too. I also agree with i-chick on the Purdy brushes - they are great quality. I used mine a LOT and they still look brand-new.

I use Zinzer primer, BM satin latex, and purdy brushes on trim and have no problems. Agree with prior post - Prime and 2 finish coats. I would definetly prime if going over a previous gloss finish.

Thanks everyone for your information. I guess priming is the way to go if I want the finish to last. I'm still concerned with the level of sheen to get. The BM salesperson said to use eggshell level of sheen that a high gloss on woodwork is passe. I didn't buy any paint yet in the hopes of getting more information on sheen.

jb

I guess I'm passe...I only use high gloss because I find chipped up paint on my doors and trim to be a bit passe as well :oP

Here's a picture (I'll try to find a few) of my trims...No they're not distracting :) They just look rich IMO:

Oh and by the way...the color I'm using (the brown) is the code that is attached to the "exterior" name. I actually have a can of the paint here...It does say it's an interior/exterior paint on the little color label.

The actual label of the paint jar says:

All Surface Enamel, Acrylic Latex High Gloss. What I have here is a deep base since I'm testing out different dark colors for this house, but it comes in all colors. The jar label is turquoise (blue green) just in case they ask. It's FABULOUS trim paint...I would use NOTHING else an no other sheen if I were you, but then again, I like a classic look on trims and doors and don't follow trends:

Pics:
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In some of these pics there are two colors of trim (we were in the process...still are...of remodeling the entire house and I'd started trim work). It's always the dark tone that's the new paint. The light is horrible orange varnish over oak...and I didn't sand it :)

If your painter "won't" paint without sanding using these products, get another one, but if your painter is any good...they'll discuss this with you. My current guy was skeptical and I asked him to try the product and test it. He did so, and agreed to use it after a test. He still would have done it without the test but I had to guarantee it, verses him guaranteeing it as he would normally do using his paints. He likes the product so much he's going to use it on his jobs that insist on latex (he still likes oil based paints).

Some of these pics have flash...if there are high points in the lighting, it's the flash or the bright sunshine (we get a lot of sun) so I included different times of day in the pics. I really like the level of sheen but again...I'm a classic, and lazy girl...and only like to paint once LOL.

(I'm obsessing on the passe thing....) Look at some high end designer photo's...they're using gloss or oil paints on trim. Apparently passe is in fashion. I think the lower sheens...tend to be more popular with the builder beige sprayed on the walls...lower sheens hide mistakes...higher sheens show errors.

if you check the painting forum, you will find lots of high praise for Cabinet Coat paint. You can only tint it in lighter shades but it is excellent. Self leveling, tough acrylic like finish. Really gives a factory like finish (if yoused on cabinets). We used it on our baseboards and trim and pantry doors and they turned out fabulous