That is my favorite kitchen of all time. I knew exactly what you were talking about when I saw your post's title. I had my existing painted cabinets repainted and the painter who did the work brushed on all of the coats (1 coat XIM primer, 2 coats semigloss). You can see some of the brush strokes - it's very subtle, though. I have touched up a number of places and it makes it very easy to make repairs because they blend right in. However, I would think that a factory finish would be much more durable than just the regular old paint on my old cabinets. Would they brush it on at the factory or would this be done on site? If I remember correctly I think JBrodie had her cabinets custom built and painted. (?) Mine were painted last summer and I have already had to do a lot of touch ups. I don't know if it because of the paint selected (painter chose Sherwin Williams ProClassic, which I was not very impressed with) or just the fact that we have two rambunctious little boys. Paint was my only choice, as they were painted before, but I have become kind of obsessive - and frustrated - when I see marks on those pretty white cabinets. They are BM White Dove, but when I paint the island (phase 2 of my project) I think I will use a darker color that hides the dirt. We hoped this paint job would last a while but I predict we'll have to repaint in 5 years or so (but I guess that is not so bad for paint).

Thanks, FC. It was a lot of work, but worth it. As a side note, there is a white I used on one of my vanities mixed in Pittsburgh's Manor Hall line 15 years ago. That was some primo paint! (I tend to think PBG paint gets overlooked sometimes.) Perfect color and still in pristine shape today (so I didn't repaint that one). That was just before my days of meticulously documenting colors + formula on paint sticks, so I don't know what I used now. :/ sheryl8185, Zinsser does have a lot of primers, but they serve specific purposes or address specific problems. From standard priming to covering something icky. ;) I used Bullseye 123 (a latex so easy cleanup with water) on so many surfaces in our house back when we bought it. We had to repaint interior top to bottom. Drywall, wood, concrete block walls in utility room. Zinsser didn't have as many choices back then as I recall, and 1-2-3 served me well so I've remained loyal. (I used it on my kitchen cabs and it's my only regret. I suspect during their lifetime oil based polishes might have been used for cleaning, if I had a do-over opportunity -or the stamina, ha! - I'd use an oil-based primer because of oils in the wood.) If you suspect or know your bath vanity has had some oils applied (lemon oil, pledge, etc.) you might be safer with an oil-based primer. If there are no issues like that, imho Bullseye 1-2-3 should be just fine. Nor have I ever had noteworthy tannin bleed through from oak. But different woods of the same species can behave differently. (Did get some tannin bleed on a cedar chest stained dark that I painted white, but 1-2-3 still did the job even tho a couple areas 'yellowed' just a bit. Once I got a couple coats of Cab Coat on it, it's been fine.) If you're unsure and to want to play it a bit safer, use an oil-based primer like Cover Stain on the oak, or one of Zinsser's newer amped up latex primers (Bullseye 1-2-3 Plus). I've not used Plus, but did use their oil-based Cover Stain in an older house that had drywall water stains from an old leaking window. It's been two years, so far, so good. Stain is still hidden, paint it still clinging. ;)

Hello from Fargo, ND! I have no experience w/ Miller, but you won't go wrong with Cabinet-Coat! (you're prob'ly tired of my babbling about it...!?) If you're fussy...and why NOT be?!... * Lightly sand your surface. Make sure there's no "wavers" or ridges you don't like. Remove all dust. * Use the best brush you can get your hands on ($15+) for Latex paints. Using just a few strokes, apply an even first coat. Long, light, easy strokes to smooth it. After 30 seconds to a minute....GET OUT OF IT!! * Clean your brush...call it a day. * DO NOT go back into it. Leave it alone 'till tomorrow. * Let it level overnight in a dust-free area. * OPTIONAL: lightly sand dried 1st coat with 220 or finer, remove dust, and apply the "money" coat! * Each morning, you'll probably be startled how nice it looks!! * To me, it's very low odor, & soap & water clean-up! * Our ACE has the gallons at $39. The tint-base is $40. Insl-x makes some Dang good coatings, & Cabinet-Coat is one of-'em! >>> Try to create a dust-free area if possible. Pets/birds should be far away...dander/dust you know! Faron

Painted my 20 yr old pine cabinets white about 3 years ago, I had glass put in a couple of the doors. After weeks of the process, taking doors, shelves out, cleaning, degreasing, sanding, prime, sand, prime, 2 coats of white-I used Benjamin Moore's cabinet paint, it wasnt recommended to coat with a clear coat, unless you want a shiny, plastic type look...I read forever about this process. To this very day, they look wonderful and clean very easily, just wipe off, no nicks. I think having no shiny clear finish makes them look like a rich, thick, white. By the way, I did buy the 30 dollar paint brushes I had read about, but found thru the process....honestly those little foam rollers, and brushes gave a smoother finish and I could toss them at the end of the day.