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Tips & techniques for painting cabinets!

9 years ago

I've been looking for existing threads, but can't seem to find any... please feel free to point me in the right direction if relevant threads are out there!

I'm in the process of painting my kitchen cabinets with Cabinet Coat. So far, I have:

1) cleaned, sanded, deglossed
2) primed with Zinsser BIN
3) sanded primer
4) applied 1 coat of CC to both sides

My question: as of now, after one coat of paint, I can still see some brush marks and the subtle texture of the rollers. I'm using a 2" Purdy angled brush for between the raised panel, and I've tried both brushing and rolling paint onto the raised panels and outside edges. With both approaches, I don't see much "leveling" happening. Perhaps this is because I've gone too lightly with my paint application? I'm just trying to avoid any pooling of paint in the crevices, which seems hard to avoid when I load the brush or roller with more paint.

Do folks have specific tips/pointers/techniques to share? I would really love for the 2nd (and hopefully final) coat to look great and not show much of the roller "stippling" or brush strokes.

Thank you for your help!

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Comments (4)

MTwren
Original Author
9 years ago
One more thing to add: It says on the can not to add any thinner, but perhaps folks *do* add a bit to help with the flow and leveling?

I've added a picture of a front panel after the first coat to show the texture of the roller and brush strokes I'm seeing.
tbo123
9 years ago
which roller are you using?

I assume you are looking for a sprayed look. Well, the way to get that is to spray.

In my opinion, All the hype on the internet about the leveling qualities of these "cabinet paints" is just that, hype. I think they will level just fine if you "apply" them. Like in, lay out a stroke once and don't go back over it. But, if you try to 'paint' with them, it's very aggravating.

I tried the cabinet coat and it seemed OK except I didn't like the sheen so I gave up on it. It was also pretty thin.

As far as cutting it, I was wondering that since it is a Urethane paint, if you could dilute with poly of your choice of sheen. Maybe someone has some advice on that.

Anyway, looking at the stipple on your panel, seems like you used a traditional roller or didn't flatten out/sand the Bins enough.
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That "tip" on that board sounds like one of those "so-&-so-told-a-friend-of-a-friend" kinda crap. Again...I've NEVER heard of anything so goofy.... >>> I'm glad you noted it's for resale!!!!! * I don't CARE what any Realtor may have told you. * While FPE is some of the most drool-worthy stuff out there...there's no way in H&LL I'd apply that stuff & then sell!! * Save that stuff for what you're moving INTO! * I wouldn't paint them AT ALL. * Whatever color you choose will be the wrong color. * I'd like to choose my own colors..."thank-you-very-much" is kinda what I'm getting at here! * You COULD maybe do some good prep, & leave them primed...!?!??! * I've NEVER believed in that looney "throw-on-a-quick-coat-of-paint to sell" rubbish. * Most of the time, it just CREATES headaches for new owners because they often have to deal with a "no prep" scenario, & a crappy paintjob. Faron
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I charge quite a bit for painting cabinets because its a tedious process. I prefer oil based paint on my cabinet jobs but there are a couple people in this forum that are 100% against any oil based products because they are environmentalists or something. Start with priming. Don't worry about sanding anything first. I normally remove doors & drawers before painting. Mark your doors & maybe even your hardware so you know where they go. After your primer is dry then sand with something like a 3M medium/fine sanding block. You will need to do at least 2 topcoats over your primer. I do 4 or 5 to get a good hard coating. The backs of the doors you can just do 2 for sure. I use any top of the line paint but mostly use Pratt & Lambert these days. If you want to do these in acrylic you can get either Cabinet Coat or Ace hardware sells a version of this that people say they like. Make sure you sand & remove dust between coats. There are plenty of other things to add to all of this & I am sure others will post. Good Luck!
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Here's a wonderful blog -- and if you scroll down -- you'll find Layla's tips for painting kitchen cabinets -- do check out her kitchen transformation -- its amazing! Jan Here is a link that might be useful: The Lettered Cottage
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You shouldn't have a problem with latex paint, it does not contain natural rubber. Here is a link that might be useful: Is latex paint safe for people with latex allergies?
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MTwren
Original Author
9 years ago
Thanks for the response, tbo123.

The roller I started with was a Purdy 3/8" nap (smooth surfaces) and then I switched to a foam roller. I didn't notice much of a difference so stuck with the foam roller. Maybe I'll try a 3/16" to 1/4" roller tomorrow. I sanded the BIN pretty thoroughly--smooth as a baby's bottom was the goal!

Has anyone had experience/good results with thinning Cabinet Coat with poly for smoother application?
PRO
Christopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting
9 years ago
Has anyone had experience/good results with thinning Cabinet Coat with poly for smoother application?

VERY bad idea

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