I know what you mean. I am suffering from the same thing. I love my deep Kraus sink as well

gooster -- thanks! I called and talked to Viking about the depth and they basically told me with the water tubing design (and some kind of structure which holds it), that 24" depth is not enough. And I don't really want to push it - the actual body is exactly 24" so the tubing definitely protrudes beyond that. Also, the hinges on the Viking D3 actually already restrict it to less than 180 degrees -- I'll have to get our protractor out to see whether it's 110 degrees! I got excited when I saw that, but then I realized we probably already have those restrictors -- but I will double check. BTW my husband was able to pull out the frig, but we did empty it first. BTW, are your levelers up a lot, or just a little? The installer put ours up quite a bit -- I didn't check the level though - maybe it needed to be up that much. Personally I would just prefer it be directly on the wheels and that's it. Oh well. sjhockeyfan - thanks! I actually can pull the left drawer out far enough to clean it in place, but I cannot remove it w/o pulling the frig out. In fact I just checked and I can physically remove the deli drawer (yeah!). I can pull the left drawer all the way out so that the entire inside is visible, but cannot remove it. The good thing is I can remove the right drawer and then clean under the left drawer if needed. Thanks!

jstropic, I think with this particular plant that the Haddock roots (main heavy roots) are very thick and would easily split right up the center toward the caudex. Not worth forcing it and the foam would most likely get squished over time with the roots growing. Most times when you use a piece of rigid foam, it is to keep roots growing in a desirable direction (like if they where crossing) then removed over time. It seems that the roots would grow tight together, but not fuse and become one, as you see with some older Vines. Rick

btydrvn, thank you : ) I think everyone has different needs, and want different 'styles'. I think yours is manicured, clean looking, whereas ours is 'quaint', and more on the casual side. And I agree, if you want less care, don't get fish! I hear you about fencing and the wildlife. Ours is in the city but close to the mountains, so not a true city atmosphere or neighborhood. Still, our neighbors are close, so we put in a privacy fence. It's not prevented most the wildlife, but the wild turkey and deer no longer visit, and yes, that makes me sad, too. We live in bear country, but have had no visiters to this house, thankfully. Austin, a 16" waterfall should be absolutely fine for bringing oxygen into your pond. Our single pump moved twice the amount as our pond holds, and therefore runs the pond through the filter skimmer and biofilter more than once a day. For your pond, 3 ft to 3-1/2 feet should be sufficient for goldfish (and good choice, there, as Koi are gorgeous, but very destructive to plants). Remember, you will most likely have to get into that pond at some point. You might consider digging out a shelf before your liner goes in) for some container bog plants (dragonflies love those). You just cut a shelf out with a shovel, you cannot add one really as the soil will be too loose and it might 'tilt' over time. Consider some type of cave for your fish, either a purchased one or one of your own making. They need protection from the sun in the winter when your plants are died back, and protection from the sun in the early spring when your plants are growing, and protection from wildlife. You need plants. They provide shade and much needed oxygen. Hardy water lilies, which you'll trim back in the fall and lower to the pond floor. They should survive and come back in the spring. The pond plants will keep your pond healthy, balance, and your fish healthy and alive. I strongly recommend adding plants first (lilies, underwater, bog) and giving your water and pond a full 2 weeks minimum to age. We waited 4 weeks. Then add your fish. Google how to introduce fish to a pond. Get them from a reputable breeder. Comets, shubunkins - any non-fancy goldfish (though I think those look fancy!) will be fine. If even one fish looks sickly, or swims sideways, do not buy any! Go elsewhere. That is nothing but heartbreak. Pond stones provide aeration. We have a couple we use all summer and winter. Water... your water needs balancing, which is why the wait. You can and should get a water testing kit... however, there are 2 schools of thought there. First, overfeeding can cause an increase in ammonia, so don't overfeed (get the food that koi eat, pellets that float on the water), and net up any left after a minute or two) and do test ammonia levels. PH levels - some people panic over those. Without going into massive detail, goldfish are hardy boogers, and I've have 2 ponds with extremely high PH levels... eventually we just put the fish in and they thrived. High PH levels are common discussion on another forum, and I wouldn't stress over that at all. It's only when PH levels go up and down within the same day that it becomes dangerous for fish. Most don't. Mostly, don't stress : ) Overwinter... Easy. Around the end of summer, you can add Pond Salt (google it) if you wish to increase the fish's slime, which is a protective coating. Not necessary, but nice. Lower your lily plants to the bottom of your pond if they aren't already there, and cut off all dead and dying pads, flowers, stalks. Add a couple pond aeration stones if you don't already have them. Start decreasing feedings as the temperatures turn cooler. When you pond water temperature reaches 45 - 50 F (7-10 C) and pretty much stays there or lower, stop feeding your fish. Nothing. No matter how much they beg, and they will. They will go into a sort of hibernation. They can get any needed nutrition from the algae in the pond. If is warms up to summer like temps for a brief period, don't feed them during your winter months. Even if they are swimming around more. Stay calm, if you can't find a fish or 5. They hide. They sit at the bottom part of the pond and barely move. You can get a pond warmer if the aeration stones aren't strong enough to keep an ice 'hole' in your pond. Again, even in hibernation, fish need oxygen. As the pond warms up in the spring, when it becomes warmer than 45-50 F (not the outside, temp, the pond temp) you can resume feeding... slowly at first, then your normal schedule. One last thing... never, ever slap your open hand on top of the water, never slap a board on ice to break it up, this creates minor shock waves, and yes, that can kill a goldfish : ) Do teach them to come to you when you feed them by gently tapping the water with a finger each time you drop in food at your pond's edge. Soon they'll follow you everywhere in the pond, mouths open, telling you they are starving! Lastly, gold fish won't starve : ) Enjoy your pond!