Hello Davis,
Check your Porch & Floor paints' instructions...
ACE's P&F paints don't need a "floor" primer on wood. Just the first coat slightly thinned with water, then the 2nd coat is undiluted. It's interior/exterior too.

* On clean/sound wood, it does a good job!
* You could use the P&F paint for the whole thing if desired.
* If not, use the traditional "priming & 2 topcoats" approach for walls/trim.

Thanks!
Faron

I don't know how anyone could suggest using ACE paint- for ANYTHING, especially if you're a professional ! (But I just read Faron's page and understand why he reccommends it.)
If I were you I would stain the floors, this way it will NEVER peel or chip, it just fades and then recoat it in a couple of years when it gets worn. And DON'T buy it from ACE ! Go to a real paint store and pick up some Cabot stain, in the yellow cans, or Sikkens- they're the best stains out there ! I'm a 15-yr professional painter and I ALWAYS try to avoid painting floors, eventually there's problems with peeling/chipping and then you have to deal with it constantly. Staining floors is the way to go- no peeling...EVER !

Happy 4th Lynch & Davisgard!
I do have to disagree with some comments though...

(We DO happen to be a professional paint store. We purposely don't carry "contractor-lines" however, because they're more trouble than they're worth)

* Yes, where I work sells ACE-Royal (ACE's top-line, Ralph-Lauren, & C2 (You won't find C2 in more than ~50 U.S. stores...mid-$40's/gal...TOP-shelf stuff!)

>>> I agree with you on Sikkens & Cabot!!
* We also have Cabot, Sikkens, & Penofin.
* We go thru a LOT of Sikkens...not as much Cabot.
* Assuming proper prep, I'll put ACE's P&F against anyone's. We also have floor-coatings from Drylock, & Insl-x; epoxies & conventional.
* There's long-time painters up here who swear by ACE...and MANY, MANY loyal clients.
* We just got another plaque from ACE...just cracked the TOP 50 NATIONALLY. Last year was well into the top 100.
* So, I feel, I've got some experience (& volume) behind me.
* Just mixed up a $1,000+ order for a home...1/3 ACE, 1/3 Ralph-Lauren, & 1/3 C2. So far, they're very pleased with everything.

I'll phrase it this way...
"There's a lot of good brands out there. We have 3 of them."

Happy 4th Everyone!!!!!
Faron

Thanks for all the advice! I should have mentioned--I've already bought the paint (it's Kelly Moore)--and now that I've looked at the can, I see that it recommends thinning the paint to use as a primer. (I've never used porch paint, so that was new to me.) So that does solve the problem!

I'm just an amateur sometime painter, but I found myself agreeing with all of you even when you disagreed. When I "painted" my picket fence, I decided on an opaque stain. The wood was rough, and I knew that once the garden grew, it would be a hassle to paint again. I didn't want to have to scrape as well--and a peeling fence looks so bad, whereas a little fading is fine. The stain has held up beautifully for 6 years--and it was ACE brand with an ACE primer underneath. So you are all right!

Davisgard,
Some brands reccommend thinning the first coat a little to aid in absorption into the substrate, therefore kind of "priming" itself.
Your 2nd coat however, shouldn't be diluted. This is the layer that needs more "body".

Faron

Actually ACE manufacturers their own paint. I think they are out of Illinois. It just won some quality award. It wasn't Consumer Reports, but that's a bonus not a hinderance if you ask me.

I'm an independent color consultant, I don't sell paint for any one. ACE stocks all the good stuff I can't find at other paint stores. BIN by Zinsser, Cabinet Coat, Pratt & Lambert. Plus my ACE store is brand new and their paint/design center is absolutely lovely with a great staff.

The ACE Sensations is a flat finish that "cleans like a semi-gloss" It's a washable, non-burnishing matte flat enamel. I have Peanut Shell scoped as a great all-over house color. As soon as I find the right house and right clients, I won't hesitate to spec the ACE paint.

As usual, "Fun-C" (sounds like a rapper's name like that ;) ..."Yo, Fun-C, s'up?!") is right!!

Yes, ACE opened 2 big paint-plants in the 'burbs of Chicago...Matteson, & Chicago Heights...25 yrs. ago!!

Had a fellow yesterday compliment me on the ACE Flat-Sensations they used. "Went on so nice" he said, and "cleans fantastic"! This was totally out of the blue!

We make a LOT of the Peanut Shell color here "Fun"! Also...Galveston Dust, Peanut Brittle, & Nevada Tan...probably round out our "Top-5".

>>> Another EXTREMELY popular color was/is Cafe Latte, in ACE'S previous collection. We STILL use it a lot though. I swear, if I had a $1 for every gallon of that I've made, I'd have a new 'Vette in the garage!!!

(Probably not as nice as the one "Fun-C" must have though...;) )!!

Faron

Fun-C. :-) Too dang funny, I love it.

Have made notes of the popular colors, thanks for the info.

Hey Davisgard, since you already bought the paint, than you might as well use it, but Kelley Moore, UGH !! Anyway, I NEVER put any paint, (first coat thinned to act as a primer) on bare wood. I beleive in ALWAYS, ALWAYS priming bare wood, especially on a floor. I don't trust ANY paint to be thinned as the first priming coat on bare wood- especially when the topcoat is a product like Kelly Moore's ! I would use a good oil base primer, like Ben.Moore's Fast Dry Oil Primer, or even a good latex primer like BullsEye 123. Good luck !

Hi guys,
123 can't be used on floors...not made/warranted for that use per Mfr.
* There ARE specific floor-primers (but NOT 123) obvioulsy. Behr has one for some of their floor products.
* Not every brand's floor paint requires a separate primer.
* EVERY brand requires good prep. though!!

Faron