Faron-SRD Deck stain Q

11 years ago

Hi Faron, I came across your many posts recommending the Sikkens SRD deck stain-I am going to try that on our deck this weekend. I have a question though-is the Cetol SRD Semi Transparent and Translucent the same formulation? I couldn't find the Semi-transparent at our local HD. The Sikkens website says they are both non film forming but will the translucent penetrate instead of sitting on the surface? I am not sure I understand what the difference is other than the opacity-I am ok with it being somewhat opaque as the wood is very old PT that I don't mind covering up.

Just as an FYI, this is probably a 20yr old covered deck mostly in good shape-we put TWP after cleaning the RAD system on it about three yrs back but the sun exposed parts didn't hold stain for too long and parts of the deck became blotchy. I am hoping sanding and staining with SRD will give me better results.

TIA

Vinaya

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Comments (5)

Faron79
11 years ago
Hello VL!

Now that Sikkens is in Home-Depot, this all gets kinda confusing...!
As a "Long-time" INDEPENDANT Sikkens dealer, we just rolled our eyes when we found that out!! Now we may have to be putting-up with people possibly getting bad advice from the HD, and maybe souring them on the stuff!

I was curious if Sikkens had changed any tintbase/series #'s for the HD-channel! Sure enough, they have different base-#'s for the regular PRE-TINTED "Wood-tone" SRD colors...and another series-# for the tintable SRD.

* I was looking thru 4 TDS's when I noticed that!
* The independent-dealer channel is the "Fine Retailers" link on their site.
* That link shows the cans that the independents have, the silver/green look.

Bottom-line....
>>>> ALL the SRD's are Semi-trans., meaning you can see most of the wood-grain.
* They're ALL penetrating stains, meaning they aren't meant to form a film, OR have 2 coats applied.
* If someone HAS to apply 2 coats, wipe off whatever doesn't penetrate after ~ 5 min.!!!!

Sun-wear....
* Uneven exposure to the sun will affect any type of stain.
* The shaded part of a surface will ALWAYS stay a more even color. Exposed areas will get blasted by the sun and fade faster.
* As all their TDS's state, SANDING is the preferred prep., and that ALL previous coating MUST be removed. Note their grit recommendations for decks!!
* Just because of the AGE of your deck ALONE....sand it thoroughly!

Hope this helped you & others here?!

Faron
vdinli
Original Author
11 years ago
Thanks a ton, Faron! That helps a lot. Glad to hear it is not film forming and is penetrating.
I hope one coat will suffice on the bare wood but will make sure the second coat does not sit. How does one know if another coat is needed? water not beading on top?
Any tips on how to sand the spindles quickly? I am going to be renting the floor sander from HD but I guess the spindles are going to be where the elbow grease is required.
I hear you about HD-I wouldn't have gone that route but the independent dealer who had SRD was a little farther away and didn't have the best hrs. I hope the HD formulation is not cheaped out.
Thank you!
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We sell LOTS of Sikkens where I work! I've been around the stuff for over a decade, & helping people with their decks. Since you didn't specify which type of Sikkens exactly, I'll start with the most probable: >>>>> SRD- This is the Semi-transparent (Oil OR Water-based...both types available). * You'll see all the wood-grain here. * SRD is a PENETRATING stain....NOT a film-forming product. (think of rubbed-in sunscreen here, vs. applied makeup, which largely sits ON TOP of your skin!) * Too much SRD applied, OR....too many coats, will lead to a dried "skin" on some or all of the deck. This will behave like a blistering/peeling sunburn. * If 2 coats of SRD "have to be" applied...WIPE-OFF whatever doesn't penetrate in 10-15 minutes...NO LONGER. * Whatever doesn't soak in during that 2nd-coat time-frame WON'T....and WILL lead to peeling. * NO MORE than 2 coats of this!!! >>>>> DEK-Finish: * This IS a Film-forming product! * TWO COATS MANDATORY on a "new-wood" scenario. * Plus...the 2 coats MUST be applied to ALL SIX SIDES. This keeps most moisture out of the wood in the first place, which could lead to peeling of the "topside" coats. (think of the outer crust-of-bread idea) * Since most people aren't gonna crawl under a deck that's built, this product isn't used much! * On furniture, handrails, planters, benches, etc., it looks GORGEOUS! * It's literally TWICE the price of SRD too. Our DEK-Finish is ~ $90/gal. >>>>> Log & Siding or Cetol 1/23+: * I hope He's not talking about these, since they're VERTICAL surface ONLY products!! * These also form a film. Faron
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Yes...for even penetration, color, & wear of your NEW stain, sand through all existing finishes. * Sweep-off the bulk of sanding-dust. * Shop-vac (with the bristle nozzle!) to remove more dust. * Wipe with paint-thinner dampened rags to lift out the last of old material. Now...you've basically got a new deck again! * Most importantly, the wood WILL ABSORB & HOLD STAIN EVENLY because all sun & weather-degraded wood is gone. * What remains now is sound, open cell-structures...NOT crumpled/crushed fibers! Besides...sanding is chemical free!!! I went through ~ 14 gallons of Sikkens Semi-transp. SRD Redwood, #089 last yr...@&%^WY$& fence took most of it!! I sanded all my spindles, steps, and skirtboards last yr...Uffda! They look NEW again now though! (It's 12 yr-old Redwood in Fargo, ND) Is your deck low or high? Decks that are on the ground, or less than 3' high don't get good air ventilation underneath. Solid stains don't breathe as well, and therefore have a higher tendency to get "pushed-off" from ground-moisture vapor moving up. Prep & wood-dryness are big factors too though! Faron
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I would not recommend Sikkens. We put it on our brand new mahogoney deck and it was stunning, until it started to peel. The rep came over to see it and said it was because we didn't seal every cut edge of the deck. Meaning the cut end that were already in place. We then sanded the whole deck and have used a variety of things over the years. The best by far was a product I learned about on this web site. Unfortunately I don't remember what it was, but we ordered it on the web and I think The Deck guy or Deck man recommended it. I'm sure it was cheaper than Sikkens. Hate to rain on your parade but I definately would not use it. Good luck
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SuzieQe2
11 years ago
Hi Faron, perhaps you can help clarify...
Based on its great reviews we purchased some Sikkens Cetol SRD Semi-transparent stain from Home Depot. The instructions on the can state that all previous coatings must be removed prior to application of the Cetol SRD. On the Sikkens website the application instructions for Cetol SRD sold by "Fine Retailers" states that stain can be reapplied when it looks like it needs it. Also, the HD stain's primary ingredient is water, while the "F-R" product is mostly linseed oil. These two products have exactly the SAME NAME!. What gives?

We need to re-stain the cedar siding on our cabin. The stain on the W and S sides is extremely thin and worn, but the N and E sides are in very good shape. We don't want to have to remove good stuff if we can avoid it. Can you help?
Faron79
11 years ago
Hey SQ2!

Yeah....as I mentioned in my previous post, there's now 2 versions of SRD; the newer Waterborne (came out last year to the Independents), and the traditional Oil/Alkyd that's been around for some time.

Independents actually have TWO tintable SRD's...
The H20, and the "190-series" Oil-base.

Actually, I believe most of Sikkens instructions have always said..."all previous coatings must be removed...", ESPECIALLY when you don't know what the previous coating IS!!

We talk to various MN Lakes-area Cabin owners who've decided on using "Cob-blasting", or other envir.-friendly means of removing previous coatings. Seems like it's gaining popularity there....!

Once wood reaches a certain point of degradation/fading, it's usually better to either sand/strip/or media-blast off the older coatings....AND....the outer layer of the degraded wood itself.

The damaged wood will no longer be able to....
* ABSORB AND HOLD STAIN EVENLY IN ALL AREAS.
* This is the reason I stress a full sanding of deck-floors by the time 10yrs. have elapsed.
* I've sanded my 16y/o Redwood decks' floor TWICE.
* I've taken my STEPS (18 2x6's) off and sanded them THREE times....
* The only screws I use are full Stainless. They look the same today as they did 16yrs. ago....

Bottom-line:
* You'll probably be fine just cleaning and lightly recoating your N & E sides.
* The S & W will probably need the more lengthy prep!
(Sorry!...;-))

Faron
dazzlemn
10 years ago
I just applied Natural Cedar semi-transparent from HD to our cedar deck. Proper prepping in advance. Regrettably I didn't get approval on a test section. It is not the color everyone was hoping for. We would like to end up with a darker look (Honey Brown). What is involved in making that happen?

Faron-SRD Deck stain Q

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Faron79

vdinli
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Faron-SRD Deck stain Q

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Faron79

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