Promar 200 is hardly a quality paint for a finish (IMO)

what's the second guy going to use?

The difference is that one guys estimate is longer than the others. Can we guess that the first guy is more expensive than guy #2?

Also, I don't like phrasing like 'prime as needed' or 'includes up to 2 coats'. It's hard to compare two different estimates when you don't really know what either painter is going to do. If he will prime, then it should say 'one coat primer'. You need to know from both guys if you are getting one or two finish coats (eggshells or any washable paints should always get two coats unless the existing coating is in very good shape and there is hardly any color change). Plus, keep in mind that if you are going to have your house walls painted with flat (because painter #1 recommends it will be low maintenance and easy to touch up), you should know that flat paint has almost no washability so if you have kids and dogs and birds and husbands living in the home, those walls may not look so great in about 6 months.

Thank you all for your comments. Tihe second guy told us that he'd use 2 coats except maybe some inaccessible areas, like the area between the top of our kitchen cabinets and the high ceiling. Thanks for sharing also that the ProMar isn't such a great paint. The second guy just said the low sheen Latex (from Sherwin-Williams).

Second guy is the less expensive one. I think we'll go with him.

The first guy has lots of positive reviews on Angie's List, the second guy has lots of positive reviews on Yellow Pages (and one negative one to which there is a comment from him).

You need to ask what he plans to use for a finish coat. I would be demanding at least Super paint if not Cashmere

If using SW

This post was edited by christophern on Sun, Jun 1, 14 at 18:02

Just E-mailed the lower costing painter and he said he is using the same paint as the other guy: Pro Mar 200 eggshell on walls and semi gloss on trim and doors.

This website says ProMar is better than Cashmere and SuperPaint:

http://bloggingpainters.com/promar-200-zero-voc-the-right-paint-for-your-home/

Nothing wrong with ProMar 200, it's the ProMar 400 I would avoid on walls as a finish.

I'm a painter.

Joe

quote"This website says ProMar is better than Cashmere and SuperPaint: "

You can believe what you want but there is no way that promar is better than either of the 2 paints I mentioned, no way

and I am also a painter, if that matters at all

So the first proposal guy called and wanted to check in. I told him that another guy had come in $2,000 lower. So he went on for awhile about illegal workers, workers comp, etc, saying he had all that. Keep in mind the 2nd guy said he paid his workers well. This first guy is going on and on about this. He told me to ask the 2nd guy for all this information and such.

He also said that on the trims, which are latex on oil, the 1st guy will sand, the second guy isn't. The first guy also warned about the up to 2 coats, and that if he puts primer, and then puts two coats, and may ask for more later on. Just heard from the 2nd guy and he says he doesn't think any wall will need primer, so that is why 2 coats. I wonder if we need primer on the ones where wall paper is removed?

Also, first guy says pay at the end, second guy says pay $1000 deposit to start.

This post was edited by NewFLHomeowner on Mon, Jun 2, 14 at 17:28

I wonder if we need primer on the ones where wall paper is removed?

ABSOLUTELY, an oil based primer or Gardz is needed for SURE

The price difference may be due to one offers no health insurance and the other is forced to offer Obamacare. LOL

Paying workers well has nothing to do with whether the painting contractor is licensed, insured, bonded and has workers compensation insurance if one of his guys gets injured on the job. I would suggest you talk to your insurance agent about the risks of hiring an unlicensed contractor or go online to your State Contractors Licensing Dept. - they most likely have information re licensed vs unlicensed workers and the risks to homeowners involved. The cheapest bid can turn out to be the most expensive if anything goes wrong.

These places are small enough they don't offer Obamacare. For neighborgirl, the 1st guy is claiming the 2nd guy may not be bonded, licensed, etc, but the 2nd guy looks pretty reputable, has lots of positive reviews, and told he has worker's compensation. I do need to check with him on primer for the two rooms where wallpaper is removed. Meanwhile the 1st guy left me a message today saying he can bring down his price a little, and he wants to walk me through his full costs.

Never buy from a salesman who retreats from his price. He's admitting his price was too high.

Not all states require painters to be licensed and/or bonded. Some guys get bonded just so they can put that on their vans. They don't even know what that does. Also, I would never slam the competition. If you want to hire me that's fine, but if you want to hire someone else, that's also fine. Good painters are busy right now. The ones dropping their price or slamming the other guy are scrounging for work...that may just not be that good.

I completely agree with paintguy. You shouldn't have to slam the competition to get business. This time of year (especially) a good painter will be busy. These guys are steering you in the right direction. Get everything in writing, for your sake, and the painter's sake. Make sure all your communication, and agreements are clear.

Sometimes I ask for a deposit if the customer is not someone I am used to dealing with...Sometimes a contractor or painter doesn't know if they will get paid on time. (But my bills always come in on time!)

If you are set on Sherwin Williams, but are doubting the quality, do yourself a BIG favor and go down to that store. Talk to the manager, tell them you are wondering about the difference in paints, and ask them for a sample or a demo. Odds are, the painter is giving you the standard (which he is) but if you are picky and demand a high quality finish...GO with Cashmere. I'm not a fan of SW (I just don't like the feel of it) but their Cashmere product is something else. It is more expensive then ProMar 200...But it is definitely worth it.

And on your sheen options...From a pro painter and a Mom...Using flat on walls, especially high traffic areas such as hallways, stairways, kids' rooms...Not a good idea. You will be touching up constantly, and your walls will not take any washing at all. At the very least, use an eggshell. Please. It will save you anguish. (I used Satin just about everywhere in my house except bathrooms and kitchen, where I used Semi-Gloss.)

Good Luck!

out of curiosity when paint company owners hire mexican (possibly illegal) wjat hourly wage do they pay them? I noticed alot of paint companies use Mexican workers.

happy-grrl quotes "and your walls will not take any washing at all."

I have found this not to be at all true, the high end QUALITY flats ARE washable.

In the past I've had no problem cleaning a "matte" finish, but my latest rooms painted in BM Aura matte are not cleaning well, they are burnishing. I can usually take a brush just slightly wet with paint and feather the paint in. It will usually blend in perfectly, but I haven't tried it on these walls yet.

There really are more things to consider when talking about matte finishes being washable. Dark colors are harder to clean without burnishing the finish. Walls with mass amounts of sunlight coming in through windows are always going to show more of those rubbing marks. Some people want washable paints and then never try to wash it. Others wash too much. It's also the same deal with touching up. Touching up the inside of a dark closet is always going to be easier than touching up a high foyer wall with natural light entering the area from everywhere.