I don't mean to answer your question with a question, but, is semi-gloss paint generally used on ceilings?

I thought that generally the recommendation is the flatter the better for ceiling paint, just to eliminate the streakiness issues you are experiencing.

Ditto what sac1971 said. Semi-gloss for the ceiling? Huh?

We used eggshell Eco Spec for our ceilings, and it isn't perfect, but it's better than you state. That's in part due to the non-professional painter (moi). I'd planned on doing some walls in white, too, so my compromise was to buy the same paint for both. Would likely do flat if I had it to do over again.

I did use semi-gloss Eco Spec for the trim with excellent results. Especially where I was hanging new crown and baseboard. I bought primed millwork and painted the first finish coat before cut/install. I could paint from one end of a stick to the other (trim roller followed by backbrush) and have the end I'd started from be dry by the time I got to the far end.

The time savings of the low-VOC paint is a huge advantage b/c it dries quick. Maybe that's your painter's problem- trying to paint too far and getting lap marks b/c it dries so fast.

I used BM Pearl Finish on the walls and to me it is not shiny at all. I used SW Gloss on my trim and I wish it was shinier. I finally caved in and used the white flat ceiling paint and I think ceilings look best in flat paint or eggshell finish. I have seen walls and ceilings in semi-gloss and I think it shows too many imperfections on the ceiling.

Next time I paint a room, I will be sure to only use no voc or very low voc paints since I was sick for days.

Sorry I didn't get back to this thread before. The semi-gloss on the ceiling is an interior design decision and personal preference.

I'm starting another thread re Eco Spec because we have confirmation from Benjamin Moore that the paint itself is bad and being discontinued. Just wanted to answer the SG question first.

Yeah, the shiny ceiling thing is basically a decorator vs painter battle. The decorator doesn't consider things like flaws popping out, roller marks, seams showing more, etc. All she/he cares about is the reflectivity/sheen aspect. The painter actually wants the ceiling to look good, and knows that's pretty much impossible with shiny paints in critical lighting. Plus, the whole idea behind using a shiny paint is washability, which you generally do not need on a ceiling. Around and round we go!

I'm a builder:

In June of 2009 we received shipment of interior MDF doors from Holzkraft. The doors arrived pre-primed from the manufacturer. Being a LEED project, zero VOC latex paints were used. The painter lightly sanded the pre-primed doors, used a tack cloth to remove any loose paint and applied a Benjamin Moore paint, Eco Spec. product directly to the door. The paint did not stick to the door and could be easily be removed with a light scratch. We called the paint store who lined up an on-site meeting with the Eco Spec. representative who confirmed the techniques being used by the painter were part of the correct process for his product. He suggested we use a primer to go over the manufacturers primer. The painter then primed all the doors before applying the final coat. The finish paint adhered to the new primer.
Two years later the homeowner has noticed several areas were the paint has been removed with the least amount of effort. The confusing part of the equation is the painter used the same process on the MDF baseboards and casing through out the house and the home owner is seeing no signs of problems.

I am in the process of hiring a surface engineer. I will post the results in a few weeks.