air return vents in the wall: paint or not?
16 years ago
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- 16 years ago
- 16 years ago
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Air conditioner vents and returns
Comments (14)It may be an option. You need to have a way to run the duct from the air handler to the floor system of the second floor. We have attic space on the 2nd floor (and I think you probably do) so there is room to run the ducts there or even put an air handler there. When we built, I really didn't push it. Now building again, I am putting the ductwork between the 1st and 2nd floors. Keeping it there really helps with efficiency. It is at the beach and I really want to keep the ducts away from the humidity up in the attic. I didn't push the issue initially because I didn't necessarily want floor vents. Downstairs we have floor vents in hardwood and that is perfect. But with tile and carpet, floor vents wind up being metal which is less than ideal. Now you could do some in the ceiling and some in the floor but that loses any efficiency benefit and the longer duct runs actually cost some efficiency (and cost money initially). Insulating the floor is not an issue. I have insulation between basement and 1st floor and also ductwork running there. As an aside, insulating the floor does not help a lot with sound. Insulation is a pretty bad sound barrier anyway but it does close to zero for foot stomps which is the main issue in the basement. Builders push insulation for sound because it is so cheap and it gives them something to do easily. But if you want to cut sound significantly, you have to spend some money. We may do more sound proofing over the garage since we have a bedroom there. What I would do is a second layer of drywall with a sound barrier glue used inbetween. "r-11 fiberglass" - that isn't even the best sound insulator. R-15 is a little better at sound and is what you get if you walk into Lowes and look for sound insulation. Cellulose is better still. But like I said, nothing is really any good in that category....See MoreCan I block/reduce return air vent? Alternatives?
Comments (3)If the return was properly sized, you don't want to reduce it--it will mean less airflow in the LR if nothing else. What's in the wall above the return? Could you open up the wall that you'll be covering and put the return high instead of low? Then you could put a grill at the top of the bookshelf/cabinet, where you won't see it as much anyway....See MoreReturn Air Vent Above Register?
Comments (2)I don't know what you have but it sure isn't a heating system. You need to call a good dealer to go over your system and see what can be done to make a proper system. paulbm...See Morecold air return vent in basement
Comments (3)You'll hear a lot of debate about this one - some will say you can't do it without calculating a Manual J etc but the reality is there's a lot of boilerplate hvac systems, at least where I am in Canada. I have two returns in the upper floor of my house only a couple of metres apart, and none in the finished basement and none in any of the bedrooms, which I've been told is an 'impossibility' - well here in Canada, it's not and the system works well enough - the master bedroom is a bit cooler with the door closed, but it's above a poorly insulated garage. I see a lot of basements with the return in the ceiling. Warm air does rise, though, and in the summer you might want some of that cooler air in the basement circulating upstairs, so I'm planning to do exactly what you mentioned, put the return near the floor, backing onto the furnace room. If there was some sort of big issue with changed airflow, you could probably block off an equivalent of the downstairs return vent in the upper return, to equalise the air flow, but to this layperson, the SUPPLY of cold air is not as much of an issue if you're not getting cavitation (a vacuum effect because the pump isn't able to suck in as much air as it's trying to deliver.) Take some temperature readings over a few hours in different spots in the house, and make note whether the furnace is running a lot more than it was previously. The 'duct work' typically is either the space between floor joists or a boxed duct around the same size, or, running down the wall, typical stud wall spacing, 16." That's what I see here in British Columbia, again, I'm not an HVAC tech. Don't go excessively large. If you go through the furnace room wall you won't need much in the way of ducting and if you need to you can use thermopan (silver faced cardboard) instead of drywall or OSB to form the 'duct' from the floor up to the return (make sure you cut into the return, not the warm air section and make triple sure you're not going to damage any wires, gas lines, a/c lines etc. As for the return, the standard size grille is about the width of the space between studs I guess so around 16?" If you need to tweak it, you can block sections of it or the upstairs one inside under the grille if you need to. If you're careful, you're not going to damage anything irrevocably....See More- 16 years ago
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