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- 18 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
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Plumerias and the garden of phosphorus-intolerant plants
Comments (1)Diana, I cannot see a problem with the planting. Because of the enormous amount of misinformation that is published about the extra-ordinary need of phosphate for plumeria blooms, which in reality is horticulturaly incorrect you could feed quite easily with many low phosphate formulas commercially available to satisfy the needs for your entire garden including plumeria. When plumeria are growing naturally in the ground such as Hawaii they continue to flower profusely without the "High Middle Number" marketing baloney. We were growing plumeria way before the "high middle number" fertilizer was ever thought of. We have had no lack of bloom issues in close to forty years not feeding "high middle number" fertilizers. Yes you can only foliar/leaf feed your plumeria and they will survive and prosper. A. L. Labs Canada has done many studies on this very subject and published very informative Tech Bulletins: http://www.alcanada.com/techs/tech_leafVsFoliar.html http://www.alcanada.com/techs/tech_WhyFoliar.html We have found these articles which are horticulturaly correct very important to the commercial grower and the hobbyist. We have permission from A. L. Labs Canada to reprint these articles on our websites. Jack...See MoreB-vent backdraft
Comments (5)You need 50 cu ft/1000btu of input capacity. otherwise you need supplemental CA. The fan in a can is one unit. I prefer the Tjernlund CA Enforcer. Currently your furnace and water heater are "common vented" into your b-vent stack. Be aware that when you replace your 80%...or so furnace with a hi eff 90+% you will no longer be venting the furnace with b vent. The venting tables in the nat'l Fuel Gas Code will detail this, but I think you will very likely need to re-line the existing flue for your water heater as you will be grossly oversized and the water heater will not operate properly without it....See MoreI've been away for a while, but look what I've been working on!!
Comments (13)Robbi, nice to hear from you! You have been a busy lady...your quilt is just lovely! Love what you made for your Mom as well. Welcome back...don't be a stranger. v....See MoreHow to remove drill bit stuck in wooden door
Comments (8)First, you don't have to drill a deeper hole in a door jamb for a strike plate. Note that a full-length pilot hole depth would be for a hard wood; here, it looks like a softer pine jamb (most common) with an oak casing. And it already has the "pilot hole" completely through the jamb = the old one. The jamb is only 11/16" thick, then there is a small airspace, then you should have the 2x4 from the wall framing jack stud. So the screw size should be the same IIRC 8-32x3/4", but if your new ones are longer just screw them in as is, no drilling needed. For the stuck bit, vise grip locking pliers are usually better to hold on to it and turn it counterclockwise. But if not enough meat to grab, then use a smaller bit, like <3/32" to drill right next to the broke bit and "widen" the hole. Then grab the bit with the vise/needlenose and rock it to loosen it out. If you used the proper bit size to begin with then the extracted hole shouldn't be much bigger, but you can always use a longer screw (like 1 1/2" or 2") to fasten into the jack stud....See More- 18 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 18 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 18 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 18 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 18 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 18 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 18 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 18 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 18 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 18 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 18 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
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