Why would you oil prime? Just to disagree or do you have a valid reason over GARDZ which is ideal over plaster. I was just trying to make it easier for the obvious home owner. As you know Gardz is not the easiest product to apply properly and in an old bath( maybe without a fan)the oil primer would lock down residual paste and provide a sound surface for the finish coats. Yes,Gardz is a great product but it is still not solvent based and could break down with sufficient moisture and yes,I too avoid oil if at all possible but in this situation,I believe it to be the best solution,I am now done.

Our casement window is treated with a preservative. But, that's today. Back then, the common practice was to paint the exposed, visible areas that get weathered. The top and bottom of the sash should be painted. Apply a thin coat. Build up will cause the window to bind. The mechanism housing is always left bare wood. Except, again our windows today are treated. It's fine to apply poly in that area. Two coats is a good preservative treatment. The easy way, the way I do it, is to remove the mechanism and spray the poly. Michael

That is unfortunate to hear that the painter/wood installer you hired, did not sand or prime your cabinets before painting. We always recommend that you check the license/insurance of who you hire before hiring them to avoid this issue. He is most likely not licensed. A simple license check with your state will prevent many of these issues from ever occurring in the first place. Because he did not degloss, sand and prime the cabinets (and then wait the appropriate amount of time for the primer to cure) before painting them, then you will unfortunately need to strip the cabinets and start over. Our company specializes in painting cabinets as well as stripping cabinets- We have fixed a LOT of jobs around our area, where homeowners "went cheap" and hired an unlicensed/unqualified painter and paid the price. This is very, very common. We probably do 2 jobs a week to fix the mess of someone cheaper. I really don't understand why more people do not just hire professionals the first time, why tempt fate... but I digress. There is no quick fix here- you will need to do things the right way from here on out, unless you want to experience this problem all over again. So again, you'll need to have the cabinets completely stripped then cleaned, prior to sanding, oil priming and repainting. Or you could just buy new doors entirely, and negate needing to do the stripping and cleaning work for the cabinet doors. (You'll still need to sand, oil prime and paint them.) I recommend hiring a professional to finish this job, as most likely this guy is just going to do things wrong again. They always do. If he isn't smart or diligent enough to even do a basic google search or crack open a textbook to understand cabinets need to be primed, then do you really think that he's going to magically become a cabinet aficionado the second time around? Most likely not. And if he does a bad job stripping the cabinets, he may cause further damage, like deep scratches, uneven stripping, etc, along with wasting more of your money on materials and time.

I would do a test first. This is kind of old school and you are at a disadvantage here. I think it is important that you separate the wax though if you can’t get Dewaxed shellac. Look online how this is done, it’s not that complicated. Because you are using a ware based paint on top it’s important to get the wax out as you don’t want any crackle or alligator effects. Do some samples and see how it works.