Call them back to adjust it. Ours did the same thing and stayed open 3/4" when we let it go. They were able to adjust the bottom plastic flap so that they door would stay wherever we put it. The top shouldn't be a problem either, as the hinges have room to play. The "holes" (ours were actually U shaped cuts) in the glass allow for that. They needed to have the silicone sealer cure before they can do that. -Babka

Okay, I'm committed to do it. Three little questions. The door has very little fiberglass area to stain as it has an oval leaded glass window. The perimeter of the window is not fiberglass, but what appears to be a type of plastic/pvc frame. Will that accept stain in the same way as the fiber glass, or should it be painted as though it were trim? And: since the inside of the door will also be stained, does the entire jam get stained? The homeowner wants the trim and inner jamb painted the trim color and just the background area of the door and sidelights to be stained.. Will this look odd? I'm guessing that the sides(inner and outer edges of the door) are also stained, right?

Kitchen cabs are cream & have black ceramic tile countertops with black grout. The walls are the same color as the cabinets. The pantry walls are light, the cabinets the dark espresso and the countertop in there is light butcher block.

The simple answer is yes, you need need accessible junction boxes on both sides. However, if you still have the wall open where you want to frame the door you may have some other options. I am assuming the line you cut just connects one outlet to another in the wall. - For example, if the wire you cut is connected to a nearby outlet you may be able to rerun the wire and use that outlet as a junction on one side. - If you plan to add a light switch to either side of the door you may be able to use a higher capacity box and use that for box the wire junction on one side. - You could just add an outlet in the area to both sides of the door and use the new outlet boxes for the junctions. Bruce