"lovely peeling latex paint" Bad prep work. Latex cab go over oil but you need very good prep work. A bonding primer can help, but only if the oil paint is CLEAN. TSP or spic-and-span clean. Oil over latex is a really bad idea. The oil film is much harder than a latex film, and it WILL crack and crackle. They way you obtain a crackle finish is by putting a harder finish over a softer one. It really matters what order the paints are applied. Luckily latex, (even acrylic) paints are softer than alkyd (oil) paints once cured.

I have also gotten conflicting advice, similar to what you have heard. I'm no expert, but I'll tell you what I ended up doing which seemed to work out pretty well, at least so far. We bought a ~100 year old home six months ago that we're just getting around to painting now, after rewiring. Most of the trim is painted with what seems to be a high gloss oil-based paint, and a much of it (especially doors and baseboards) is quite dirty. The only trim I've painted over so far is a few doors, but I'll be starting on the rest of the trim in a couple weeks. For the doors, I scraped off just whatever bits were already flaking off, then washed them really well, and then used "liquid sandpaper". If your trim is glossy you may want to use liquid sandpaper to remove the gloss. It's not a paint stripper, so you won't be left with messy globs of dissolved paint. It just removes some of the sheen so that the new layers bond to it better. Then I primed with an oil-based primer. I have used both latex and oil primers in a previous home, and the oil primers always seem to bond better. Then painted with Regal Select Semi Gloss. I haven't tried Natura, but I might... Anyway, I would recommend liquid sandpaper rather than sanding as long as the old paint is basically well-bonded to the trim, then oil-based primer, than latex paint. I'm curious what suggestions other people have..

No experience with the paint but have you looked at window film you can purchase at Home Depot or Lowes? Sue

Don't use Latex for woodwork! Latex is a wall paint and will be gummy and hard to clean on woodwork. If you put something a bit heavy the paint will stick to it and will peel off. Use a new hybrid waterborne alkyd such as SW WB Proclassic, BM Advance or PPG Breakthrough. These give a hard, durable finish similar to the old oil enamels. A 2 stage turbine won't be a good candidate for latex, unless you thin it to something ridiculous like 50% water. The W.B. alkyds that I mentioned can be sprayed with limited thinning, but even those require a 4 stage +. I've brushed BM Advance and it levels beautifully and dries hard (fingernail doesn't leave a mark.) If you are set on latex, I would use a roller/brush or a Graco Proshot, not HVLP. Titan has something called Flexspray that "may" work better for latex. Wagner has something similar aimed for DIYs. Good Luck!