Shelf paper attracts bugs. Shelf paper traps crumbs. Shelf paper looks like crap in a couple of months. Shelf paper is expensive to keep replacing. And yes, the health department does not allow it in restaurant setting. If you feel you really need to protect your laminate from Kool-Aid stains and such, how about trying plastic liner that is self sticking? I do not mean Contac with permanant adhesive. What I am suggesting is the plastic shelf liner that has a water activated backing that seals it to the shelves. You just wet the shelf and put it down using a squeegee or a book to force the air pockets out of it. When it dries it holds firmly in place with no shifting. It is easily removable when you want it to be. I have used the stuff and like it. I have shelves in my kitchen cabinets and linen closets that are varnished wood. There were lots of stains from the previous owners use, and the plastic liner covers this damage, giving it a "fresher" look. It also keeps further damage from happening. I can't see the point of covering nice plastic laminate shelves with either paper OR plastic liner, but to each their own.......

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If you are DIY competent, you could give it a shot. Especially if you have paper hanging experience. I don't find it difficult to hang...you just need to use specific measures to get the best result. Use blanklining or blankstock. Mandatory. In large rooms I actually run it horizontal across the walls, which is how I was told to do it years ago. You don't want seams in the blanklining being aligned with the wall paper seams. It can be hung vertically...just watch the seam alignment. After it's up, paste size the blanklining and let it completely dry. This will make the lining very absorbent, which helps when hanging the pulp paper. It prevents soak through and water marks, etc, in the patterned paper. Careful with your seams. Pulp papers can expand more than others when wet, and obviously, shrink when they dry. That's where the lining paper helps too. When hanging the patterned paper, to set and smooth it I use a bristle sweep. Rigid smoothers can burnish the pulp paper and possibly mar the ink pattern. They can smear any errant paste into the pores of the paper. So I use a bristle sweep. If you want to use a rigid smoother, use a scrap piece of paper held over the wall paper, and run your smoother over the scrap paper. That way the friction will occur between the smoother and the scrap paper instead of between the smoother and the patterned face of your pulp paper. Oh, and do not use premixed paste. I won't get into the chemistry of how premixed pastes are processed, but the end result is that premixed pastes can possibly result in bleed-through staining months or years after the pulp paper is installed. Buy powdered starch and mix your own. I use potato starch. I use distilled water as well. Well water can have minerals and iron, city water can have it's own list of secret ingredients. So mix your own potato starch powder with distilled water. So I guess I'd say if you have experience in hanging wall paper, you can hang pulp if you simply add a few methods and techniques to your bag of tricks.

The only recognized/certified professional organization for landscape designers in the country - the Association of Professional Landscape Designers (APLD) - is based in Harrisburg, PA. The website has changed recently and it is no longer very user-friendly IMO, but you can access the PA-DE chapter via Facebook (apldpade) and request referrals for qualified designers in your area. And often, better independent nurseries and garden centers in your area will have a listing of landscape professionals, including designers, that they will refer to.......if they do not have one on staff (and beware of those offering services for free for the previously outlined reasons). In the overall scheme of developing a new landscape, design fees tend to be one of the least costly line items :-) It is impossible to say how much a design master plan would cost, as it depends on the size and scope of the project and the skill and experience (and name) of the designer involved, but compared to the labor and materials involved in creating a new landscape, the expense is minimal.....usually from a few hundred dollars to as much as several thousand for larger, more complex project. Just an FYI, but it is important to find a designer that has experience in the type of work you are looking for as well as one that you can communicate with easily and comfortably - working with a designer is a very interactive process!! Ask to see their portfolio of built work.