Funny that you guys started to discuss this just when I am about to start this same project myself. Here are my findings. First off, if you plan of putting a counter on top of the new 3.8 cu ft FL, good luck, and have your pocket book ready. You see, the deepest "standard" counters are those for kitchens, at 25 1/8". Assuming that one leaves around 5" of clearance behind those newer FL machines for vents, air circulation, heat, etc, then you are looking at about 30"-35" of depth, depending on how flush you want the counter to come to the front of the machine. Having said that, there are 3 prices for laminate counters in the stores (like Home Depot). The counters you see in the store in stock are the cheapest, and will cost around $10 li ft. If you need to pick a finish that matches say the sink counter top in your bathroom where the machines are also located, then that is considered a custom order, even if it is a standard depth. This will easily double the price to $20 li ft. Now if you want to order a non-standard depth so that it goes from the back of the wall to the front of your new FL, then you are looking at $35-$50 li ft, depending on type of finish like rounded vs sqaure front edge, back ledge or no ledge, etc... Keep this in mind when shopping for a counter top. I would like my counter to cover the machines completely, so I might have to bite the bullet and order the more expensive counter top.... Again, I am talking about a laminate counter top, no fancy materials here.... I am from Canada, and here is what the local Home Depot quoted me in Canadian dollars for the 3 options.. 1) In-Store counter (limited finishes) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $68 CAD Custom order counter (you choose the finish) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $132 - $150 CAD 30 Csutom order counter (you choose the finish) 30-35" (non standard depth) X 6 feet = $222 CAD I believe the last option of non-standard depth only allows for a square front edge finish. If you want a rounder edge in front, like that found on your kitchen counter, the price jumps to $500 CAD, since the guy said that they have to charge for a full 4X8 sheet, and then cut the custom size from there, in order to get the rounded front edge... One other option you can do, which my brother did very nicely is lay down 2 sheets of plywood (for extra thickness), and tile the top and sides, looks really nice, but is a lot more work...

My dream laundry room is about to be slightly modified but it is a dream. It's about 13'x10'. All cabinets are built-in and I have a single pane french door that leads to a deck plus a window so there's lot's of light. One side consists of room for my ironing board to always be down. I have a great heavy duty stainless drying rack and hanger that is positioned over the heating vent on the floor. I have a Jiffy 4000 steamer. I have a built in craft table with cabinets above and to the side that house my sewing machine, craft supplies, wrapping paper and ribbon and all my dog grooming equipment. I have 2 Bichons so I have a grooming table on the craft table as well. The other side is long counter all the way with a 47" dual stainless steel built-in sink at the end. I wanted it large enough so a bucket could go on one side and I could still wash a dog on the other. I have a TV mounted under cabinet that I can't image living without, makes folding and ironing tolerable. Under counter, I have a True (Bev-Aire) restaurant grade double frig. That is where I keep my cocktails to make ironing tolerable....joking,maybe. I use it to store drinks for the kids and really use the extra space when entertaining as I can stage huge platters of food, etc. Above is all built-in storage for linens, rags, pool towels, dog shampoo, etc. Modification will be happening very soon. When I designed it, I used undercounter washer and dryer but not only are they on their last leg but their capacity no longer can serve our family of 4. I'm going to cut into my beautiful long counter and put in some LG Steams. It will no longer be one long counter but I believe it's a sacrafice I have to make for capacity. i will also change to stone on counters. Unless someone has a really huge undercounter washer and dryer they can recommend, the demo may start this weekend. I designed this laundry room when we did an addition about 7 years ago. I've yet to see a laundry that I love more than mine.

We are finally ridding ourselves of the ugliest kitchen on the planet (no lie) and we are getting cabinets and granite Santa Cecilia counters from Lowe's. Originally we thought about the undermount sink, in stainless (everyone is doing this) and then in white. Many friends complained of SS losing its luster, showing spots, denting, etc. Last week a friend of ours showed us her undermount sink's white finish was rubbing off near the drain from scouring/cleaning/whatever (not sure of the material, brand, or grade). So I decided to break trend and threw out the idea to my hubby about an overmounted sink, since we tend to be hard on things around here! I went online and found a cast iron Kohler Hartland sink. At first he was apprehensive until he saw the sink! It is stunning. Our house in Burbank, CA was built in 1939. Like another poster said, we do not want to go too contemporary. So we feel the elegant contours of this sink will mesh well with the overall style of our house. I think this issue of gunk is going to come up anywhere there is water and bacteria (sink, toilet, etc.) - it is the nature of the beast. Yes we will lose the ability to "wipe and go" that we'd have with the undermount (same as our existing God awful ugly tile we've endured for 28 years). But the sink and the faucet we selected will be pristine against the backdrop of the granite. I am not sure at this point if I want my new sink in white or bone. There is something very sweet about that slightly off-white tint of bone. My only concern, other than the demonic gunk, is the heaviness of the cast iron. I asked a guy in the cabinet department yesterday if it was too heavy. He said between the granite itself and the plywood underneath the granite, that it is sufficient to support the cast iron sink. We can still change our minds, as we are not ordering the cabinets until our demo is done which will be within the next 2 weeks. Best to take accurate measures after everything is out. More lag time but worth it hopefully. For this reason, no pictures to share, other than stock photos.

Tonight DH and I discussed how we want the contractor to finish the tub and walk in closet bumpout. And to what degree we want it completed. DH is an itch about doing things so-so, therefore it will be better to add the tiles ourselves, and do the painting as well. BUT, the electrical, the plumbing, the windows, the removal of the old pair of windows in the bedroom to allow entry into the new closet, that will be framed and cut by the contractor. Also, drywall and taped, but we will finish with a skim of plaster--or so DH thinks. I am ready to leave the closet drywall plain. I am fed UP with DUST. In the tub bumpout, I've decided I want it all beadboard...roof and walls. I think there is a synthetic beadboard mfg by a company with a name beginning with "A"...am I right? That would be very very water proof or moisture resistant. Of course the contractor will do the foundation, the framing, the roof as well. Our windows will be up high near the little rafter "tails" that stick out all around the house. The clerestory "lights" will be NON opening, and made of Lexan. DH says that if you make them less than 24 inches (they will be about 16) you do not have to allow for expansion/contraction of the Lexan. So each small panel can be caulked in and screwed down. That will give us natural light all along our northern exposure, and require no window treatments. I want these Lexan panels in the walkin closet also. I already have the wire closet kit to make high and low hanging racks and such.In fact, I might even get the contractor to install them for me. The top shelf rack will come about the height of the window bottoms. The roofline will just extend at its current angle, and we will lose a little closet height near the outer new wall...but not enough to create a problem. Having the "lights" up high will really take advantage of ambient natural light coming from the north, which is true and consistent all year long, winter and summer. For closet doors, I plan to get two pairs of bifold with frosted glass in the top panels, and louvered fixed shutters in the bottom panels. They can be installed later by us, because the brand I want is special order from Lowes. I also already have the tub fixtures/plumbing stuff ready to be installed. And the two short sconces and one longer double ended sconce for the sink, and the towel bars and racks and ONE grab bar. I plan on more of these grab bars, and will ask the contractor to place a lot of blocking in the walls while they are open. I am so excited. I've tried not to get my hopes up, this might not work out, but OH BOY I"M READY TO TAKE A TUB BATH. If the man is a professional, this job should not take very long, should it?