Sanding is permitted "IF" you use a wet sanding sponge and dump the water residue down a sanitary sewer (toilet) The thing you want to accomplish is to keep lead particles from being airborne, hence the wet sanding and washing, rinsing. Review the EPA booklet on lead paint prior to any remodeling or repainting. There are primers out there they may be of use over the walls. Zinsser offers Peel Stop as a coating to lock down the peeling paint. Of course, without seeing your project, I can only suggest you get someone to view it prior to moving in that direction. Michael

Thank you, Michael. I had to go ahead and buy paint before receiving a reply, but ended up with SW Super Paint as per the advice of the SW guy when I explained to him what I wanted. However, I see on the directions it still says 50 degrees. I have heaters on in my garage right now, and barely have wood surface temp at 48-49. Maybe another hour will raise it enough. Okay, so what will happen to my paint job if I miss it by a few degrees? It's kind of critical we go ahead and get it done now even though the weather has taken a dip from forecast. My finish carpenter knew we'd be doing it in the garage in this cool weather and didn't voice concern, but then, I didn't ask him about it either. Wonderful--if I use the ProClassic within 30 days I don't have to do anything in prep other than clean surface. I do plan on doing at least the 2 windows in ProClassic, but would like to go ahead and pre-paint it along with the other stuff. Thank you again, Tracey

Thanks for the advice everyone. I have decided to try a few different products in various spare rooms and then decide which one I get along best with. Faron - That is one smooth finish! I actually am having a hard time believing there is wood under that paint. Where do you get that brand? Christophern - I think you are right about the primer, I just needed to put it on a bit more evenly the first time. Paintguy - I had never heard that oil based paint yellows. Are we talking in months, years or decades? I had the BM designer come help me pick out a white and she choose vapor, which is actually a pretty yellow off-white. I definitely don't want it to go any "yellower". I might have to use the waterborn SI in the bathrooms. Can I use that over the alkyd primer? I am off to finish the chair rail today, I welcome any additional advice anyone has before I start the trim on the main floor. Thank you all.

in the short of it, its best to get both and experiment to see what works best for you - the long version is -in all honesty - your question is one of opinion and taste - ask an artist how to choose their medium - they will tell you it depends on what they are trying to accomplish. im new to varathane as well, but NOT new to the trade - i have only used minwax on wood, and rustoleum on metal - some wood too - never used minwax on metal at all - rustoleum is more diverse in that way. (varathane is a rustoleum product) Minwax seems to be strictly wood. I have found that minwax needs more coats, that is a plus and minus depending on circumstances. I have had awesome results with minwax.. sometimes the slower drying multiple coats can work very well for different projects. i feel it was a better product to work with so far... i need more time to find out though there are different crafts that may require different applications to achieve the art or final result you are looking for. the craftsman has to know which works for him and which works for his current project. maybe minwax will work better on a certain project or has a color that you prefer vice versa.. I have been trying Varathane and i like a few things about it, but i fell its a lower quality - not so sure i like that rustoleum makes it because i have had 50/50 results using rustoleum on several different wood projects, some metal work some wood - i had excellent results with rustoleum with certain metal projects - others not at all. A true craftsman - home DIY projects or an experienced artistic expert craftsman - has no set rules to follow with materials, its how you use them. excuse this example, but its like asking your friend how your wife will feel if you try something new in the bedroom.., his methods (and equipment) may be different than yours and therefore has different results.. and to put it bluntly its true. I suggest using both and find your way. - experiment with both - make test samples and see which is best for you . . I think that a slower stain with several coats will give you a more controlled experience and lustrous look - like it has layers and gives a transparent depth to it. I have had excellent wood projects with minwax but it does take longer. . if minwax increased it drying time - id stick with them. the varathane - being that it dies dry faster and coats better (note they have 2 products of all the same colors - yellow can and white can - one is thinner the other is thicker - the white one has more pigment the yellow can has less.) but i experienced an uneven drying with varathane and even though it works good for one coat, patience is a virtue and i like to see even coats. The minwax may need several coats, and a lot longer drying time but the end result is a smoother more even tone were i find that varathane will coat heavier but you have to be attentive to all areas or one spot may have darker streeks. I guess thats why they made 2 versions - in the end - im stuck with varathane because the HD has changed contracts - minwax is now with lowes, and lowes is 30 minutes further away making an hour round trip where HD is walking distance. - i also feel that the varathane stain seems to smell and feel cheaper quality - i dont know if the multiple coats produces different looks on different finished wood - so again, its really best to have both and see which works for you. on the positive note, im changing the cabinets to a darker color. i did not have to sand all the way to the wood - but i dont know the durability with varathane yet. minwax i usually have to take it down to the wood. minwax was extremely durable - to this day it doesnt rub or scratch off. Im worried the varathane will peel or be able to get your finger nail and dig into it and scrape it off - i have had that experience with other rustoleum products making them seem cheap to me. I hope the time i took to share my opinions were helpful cheers