Authoritative information on building science is available free from Building Science Corp. (see link) whose assorted engineers are also the source of much of the US Dept. of Energy Building America programme. As long as you have sufficient XPS against the wall to keep the temp below the dewpoint (min. 1" in cold climates) options 1-3 will work well. However, you would get best results by insulating to the min. R factor recommended (scroll to map) by the US Dept, of Energy for new wood-framed homes in your climate zone. Here is a link that might be useful: Building Science Corp. on Basement Insulation

Put 1" extruded polystyrene (XPS) on the foundation wall, then finish the rest as they require. The polyvinyl vapour barrier is pointless, but it won't damage anything, according to Building Science Corp. I've had to do the same nonsense on two new homes. The most economical thing to do along the stairs is to use 1/2" or 1" XPS, followed by drywall above the staircase. It shouldn't hang over the stringer. Underneath, you can go thicker, as it doesn't interfere with anything. Here is a link that might be useful: Basements

First, the tuck tape. Look for "sheathing tape". It's usually sold in the box stores, sometimes it's red colored. You could use Tyvek tape as well. The vapor barrier is a bit tougher to diagnose. Your exterior foam, "expanded polystyrene" is usually quite leaky with regards to moisture transmission and is not a strong vapor retarder. "Extruded polystyrene" is a much tighter product, and it could indeed be a vapor barrier, probably a Class II barrier. If the exterior foam is indeed continuous on the walls and well detailed, then it might be best to omit the interior poly and just use the Roxul. Your walls may take in some vapor over time, but the vapor should also transmiss back into the bathroom during drying cycles. The biggest problems occur when you have two barriers and one or both are poorly detailed. Over time moisture gets in but has difficulty getting out. Thus the "sandwich" that you referenced. The "imperfect" in your system is the exterior foam. I'm a proponent of foam, but only if it is the right type and the proper thickness. With your exterior foam probably being a Class II on the exterior side of your wall, your best bet is probably to omit the interior poly and simply use other methods on the interior walls. You can use something like Hydroban in your shower (if the shower is on an exterior wall), it's a waterproof barrier but does allow vapor to transmiss through it. For the remainder of your walls, simply use two coats of latex paint over your interior drywall. Latex paint is classified as a Class III vapor retarder. As such, it'll slow moisture vapor transmission that wants to get into your wall, but if any does, it'll allow your wall cavities to dry out during a drying cycle. It's an imperfect solution for an imperfect situation. I'd be completely confident in my reply were your exterior foam thicker than it is and if I knew it was well-detailed. My concern is the interior side of the foam reaching dew point temperatures in winter and any moisture vapor within the framing cavity condensing on the interior surface of the foam, between the foam and the sheathing. That may not be a problem. But it is a consideration, especially since I tend to go towards the conservative side with an "over the internet diagnosis" such as this one. I'd certainly do more research if you can, you might get better information than what I'm offering. You are addressing moisture generation within the bathroom. That's good. Other stuff: 1) I do sometimes insulate interior walls, Roxul is good for that. 2) A simple yet effective sound deadener behind your washer and dryer is nothing more than a second layer of drywall over the first. 5/8" is better than 1/2" due to the added mass. Beyond that you can go fancier: 2a) sandwich a 1/2" sheet of homasote between the two layers of drywall. 2b) Use RC clips and metal channel between the studs and the drywall. 2c) Use green glue between the two layers of drywall. 2d) If you do research you'll probably see references to mass loaded vinyl, but I usually use that only when doing fully integrated sound deadening room "systems". I think you'd do better (and save money) with just using drywall.

Be sure you understand the options. There are 2 kinds of crawlspaces allowed by the IRC: Vented and Unvented (aka "sealed"). The terms "unvented" and "sealed" are misleading because this type of crawlspace is not completely sealed or unventilated. The IRC code requires that both of these types of crawlspaces be "ventilated" so that moisture does not collect and encourage the growth of fungus (whether from the ground, condensation on the slab, etc.) by one of the following methods: 1) "Vented" Crawlspace - install vent openings in the exterior wall of the crawlspace 2) "Unvented" Crawlspace - inside the house supply to or exhaust from the crawlspace a small amount of air with a return air path to or from the house and insulate the exterior walls of the crawlspace. Both crawlspaces must have a vapor retarder at ground level and an access opening. For more information see IRC section R408.1, 2, & 3.