Have you ever used a 50% or 75% formula BM paint color?
merimom
15 years ago
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rmkitchen
15 years agojockewing
15 years agoRelated Discussions
tinting cabinet coat with a BM formula- Faron??
Comments (10)Welcome back Chloe! It's fun to hear updates...even if someone's having a little struggle. I would use a wider brush...preferably on the wider areas. * With a 1.5", you're stroking forever to cover the same area as a 3" would do in a half-dozen strokes. * Plus, all the loading-time is a drag on time too. * With a 3" or wider brush, the long, light "tipping-off" strokes tend to level a wider area better. * Think of trying to level a drywall mud seam with a 1.5" knife...wouldn't be very easy, fast, OR even! There is kind of a "delicate balance" of how thick the coats need to be! >>> Horizontal surfaces: The coats can be slightly thicker. >>> Vertical surface: Little trickier here. Coats usually have to be thinner; therefore 3 lighter coats are often warranted. I believe Michael has this view too. >>> Don't apply coats as thin as a "drybrush" layer. The product needs "the weight of itself" to level properly. If coat is too thin, no leveling will happen, and strokes will dry into the film too fast. >>> You could do a light sanding with a 220-grit sponge b4 a 3rd coat. >>> On my test boards, I used the C2 SAP Primer, waited a day, and sanded smooth b4 2 coats of CC a day apart. This was on crappy pallet boards! The "swail" of the graining-bands is still visible, but I can't detect any brushstrokes. >>> Decorative-detail areas. Yes, I'd use thinner coats here, and your 1.5" brush. It doesn't take much paint to "fill" a sharp edge & losing its definition! 60 seconds tends to be the "Red-alert" time! Then, get away 'till the next days' coat! Faron...See MoreHave you ever had BM use your Valspar/Lowe's Paint Chip?
Comments (8)I wouldn't consider myself a paint snob, I've used just about every major paint on the market, Behr, Valspar, Martha Stewart Everday (Kmart), Restoration Hardware, Glidden, Olympic, Kilz Casual Colors, Dutch Boy, Easy Living (Sears) and a few upper ends like Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams and Pratt and Lambert. I'm just not a fan of Valspar. I've never had a problem with coverage. It goes on great. My problem is that their Valspar premium eggshell doesn't hold up to the wear and tear of MY family. I've got 3 kids aged 8 and lower and 2 beagles and DH. I used Valspar in nearly every room in my last house. Lowes was the closest. We lived there for a year and I touched up when we moved, after that we ended up renting out to a single woman. She wasn't hard on the house by any means, but I still had to repaint nearly every room when she moved out after a year and we were selling. In my current entry hall and stairway wall, everyday scuffs and crayon hieroglyphics just don't wash off. When I have touched up, the sheen appears different, so it is obvious where the touch ups have been done. Yes, I used the correct paint. I'm anal about labeling. I painted in July '08, so it's been 14 months and it looks like it's been 10 years. In Valspar's defense, I've got it in my boys' rooms and it seems ok there, but then, they mostly just sleep there. I painted our downstairs powder room in BM Natura and that paint has really held up. I frequently wipe it down and to be honest, I just use the vinegar windex or antibacterial wipes out of sheer laziness, but everything wipes right up. No color change, no burnishing, no rubbing color off the walls. I haven't even had to touch up yet. That's that bathroom that they wash off their various art projects, mud and you-don't-really-want-to-know-how-that-got-there with 2 boys in the house. So I guess Valspar is just fine if it's a lightly used room. I've had 4 houses in the past 12 years. I painted each one myself, every room, at least once, and usually more for a color change or to tone it down for resale. I'm at the point in my life where I need the paint to perform where I'm not repainting every year due to excessive wear. I haven't even finished painting my current house and I'm dreading the idea of NEEDING to paint again versus WANTING to paint. It seems that paying more upfront and not needing to repaint is actually the cheaper way to go. I think Fine Paints of Europe's motto is something like, "There's nothing more expensive than cheap paint." If someone is looking for an affordable, durable paint, I hear that Ace's paint with scotchgard is a great value. Low price with great washability. I can't honestly remember what it's called, maybe Sensations? Check out the paint board, they know. I'm considering this for my family room and kitchen/nook. Kathe...See MoreEver color-matched BM White Dove with Sherwin Williams paint?
Comments (5)My BM Bone White color came out very well in SW Pro Classic Enamel. We used that in our kitchen (the painter's preference) and I know it is a good match because everything else in the house is the actual BM Bone White. Just about to do what you are asking about for our MB cabs--BM White Dove, but using SW. I am not worried, at all. Since White Dove is such a popular color, I'll bet SW mixes it frequently. Maybe they already have a formula in the mixing computer so they don't have to "read" it. I would make sure to have a bit more than you need mixed up, then combine cans, just to be sure.......See MoreDoes BM ever have sales like SW does?
Comments (13)The first thing you want to do is label and remove all doors, drawers, and hardware. I made a legend and diagram to help. Place labels in groove where hinges were removed. Clean all wood with warm water and cleaner like Krudcutter or lightly sand if it's solid wood. Prime with Zinsser BIN Shellac, sand after primer with 220 grit, caulk all seams, prime again, sand with 220. Apply one light coat of paint, allow to dry at least 16hrs, 24 hrs preferable. Buff with synthetic steel wool 000, apply another coat (with brush apply a bit thicker but quicker and broader than before. Repeat as necessary. Wait at least a 1-2 weeks to put everything back together. Items I used: Krudcutter, 1 gallon Zinsser BIN Shellac (microfiber 4" roller), 1" chinex brushes, 2 tubes of white Trim and Crown Caulk, 1 gallon BM Advance (Whizz Velour pink 4" roller), 220 grit sandpaper for Primer, 000 synthetic steel wool for Advance buff (doesn't shed). I used a microfiber roller for BIN, because it quickly destroys tools, even when ziplocked and refrigerated. Microfiber lasts a bit longer and the application doesn't need to be perfect since you will be sanding it. Chinex type brushes clean easier/last longer, and velour rollers make a better finish than the thick foam cabinet rollers, which just throws paint around. Synthetic steel wool suggested by Weathered door blog. 000 used most of the time to buff between Advance https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00755W0PQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 A little coarser for corrections. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A4CKA2M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1...See Morerunninginplace
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