I don't see any problems with using a fan to increase air circulation. Is it an oscillating fan that moves side to side, or a stationary fan that blows air in one direction? It wouldn't have to be on full force or anything, just enough to keep the air moving. It's only with artificially heated/cooled air coming from our central heat & air vents that could cause problems. One suggestion I would make is to use these white self-watering Plant Spa⢠pots. They're available at any Wal-Mart, and are fairly cheap. The white color will help keep the pots from overheating, and the self-watering reservoir will keep your plants from drying out. I absolutely love these pots and use them for almost all of my plants. Even though they hold water, only the bottom "X" of the pot actually sits in that water. The "X" is surrounded by ventilation slits, allowing the pot to breathe in fresh air.

Most of us just freeze them whole. You can do all the peeling adn chopping stuff after they are thawed. They will hold their consistency better if frozen whole rather than chopped. Just search 'freeze tomatoes' here for more discussions on it if interested. Dave

As a data point, here in S. NH, the buried tank feeding my 20 kW generator had to be 500 gal capacity, and only filled to 80%, to ensure adequate propane liquid surface area for evaporation at the rate that the generator could draw gas if fully loaded at minimum likely local ground temperature. As gas is pulled from the tank, more evaporation occurs, and this cools the tank further depending on how good the thermal conductivity is between tank and air (for exposed tanks) or tank and ground (for buried tanks). My generator at full load requires 354 kBTU/hr or 141.5 cubic ft/hr per the installation manual. Maximum load per code is 80%, so the corresponding requirement for 16 kW load is 113 cubic ft/hr. This requires a 500 gal horizontal tank when the ground temperature is down near -10F, a reasonable and probably rare minimum for the ground temperature here. For an auxiliary generator, of course, one can back off extreme electrical power usage if there were a risk of really low temperatures starving the generator of propane. Where propane supplies a range and a furnace and possibly a hot water heater and dryer, something may have to be shut off when it is cold until the tank size is increased. An example of the factors involved in analysis may be found in this paper: http://www.documentation.emersonprocess.com/groups/public/documents/bulletins/d4500147t012.pdf On the other hand, if none of this applies -- you live in San Diego and it is always warm from the propane's point of view -- then given adequate gas pipe size, the next candidate for suspicion would be the flow rate capability of your regulator. kas

I'd strongly recommend getting a gas range top instead of a cooktop. Much better placement of knobs. Bluestar makes a particularly nice model, but that might be more than you want to spend. On the other hand, if you decide to get an induction model instead, then most vendors make only cooktops. Fortunately, with induction, this is less of a problem, as it only heats up the pots and not the knobs or the rest of the stove.