Johnson Hardware is what the others companies are competing with. It is very well done. The 111PD is good enough for even most solid doors. The only shortfall they have is the plastic guides to keep the door from rubbing as it goes in and out of the pocket. The nylon guides rub on the door and can cause a wear line in the finish. The fix I have used for many years is to groove the bottom of the door using a slot cutting bit in a router, then place a short section of aluminum angle in the floor of the pocket that is captured by the groove in the door. No swinging and no marks on the face of the door. If you are careful you can place the angle a little ways in the pocket and stop the groove so it does not show on the door edge. If you have a panel door it may need to have the pocket side extended if you want the panels centered when the door is closed, or you buy a wider than needed door and cut down the edge that comes out of the pocket so some of the door remains in the pocket when closed.

How many times have they installed a pocket door and can you contact the customers. Retrofit is more work than new.

Took a quick look at it while sitting in my recliner watching US Open golf this afternoon. Did this little exercise more for the lurkers out there as an illustration of the value of taking “internet plans” as a starting point towards something that might really work. This example moves away from a garage crudely slapped on the back, as well as bedrooms looking at a scenic 10’ side yard. We may end up meeting with an architect but I feel like I need to start with an existing... plan to help me “see” it better since I’m so visual. Not a thing in the world wrong with that as long as it’s not code for being unwilling to trust your designer and incapable of taking the leap of faith necessary for a true collaborative effort required for a successful project I described in my posts above. The first drawing is the “big idea” as it came out of my head. In architect speak it’s called the “Parti”. That drawing took 20 minutes. Just to get a framework, I assumed a 30’ clearance around the tree. That number is pulled totally out of thin air and may prove to be completely out in left field once an arborist is on the scene but for this exercise I needed a starting pointing point to give me the “build box”, the box defined by setbacks, easements and any special considerations, like your tree, so I arbitrarily chose 30’. The second drawing is the cleaned up version so someone besides myself could understand it. This one took an hour. Still very rough and parts of it doesn't really work well yet, but it shows all the relationships which all DO work well. Note, even in the first, “big idea” drawing, I’m thinking elevations simultaneously with the plan so a couple elevation ideas are developed here. At this point they don’t work 100% with the plan but at least we’re out of the starting gate with everything being designed simultaneously. My area calcs are equally as rough and likely on the skimpy side. I’m figuring the final house will be in the 1800-1850SF range. Good luck in your project…..and to all the lurkers, your projects too! The "big idea"... The "cleaned up" version...

What you need will depend on the thickness of your wall, the height of your doors, your desired weight limit of the hardware and any options you might want (soft close for example. Here is what we purchased for our specs. For a 2'8" opening with a single 8' tall door. This was in a 2x6 wall. We opted NOT to get the soft close option. This was a door that wouldn't be closed much and it was quite a bit more expensive. If it was a door that would be used more often, we would have looked at the SC (soft close) more closely. Part No. 15603080 (this will fit up to a 36" door. You order the next size up and then we cut it down to size. The next smaller size would only fit a 30" door so it was too small) For the double pocket doors in the study, we needed two 2'0" x 8' tall doors also in a 2x6 wall. Part No. 15602680. Qty of 2 since this was a double door. Again, these were cut down to the 24" we needed. Part No. 1555PPK3. This is the converging door kit. http://www.johnsonhardware.com/1560-series-pocket-door-frame-kits