This is my first year gardening here and it's been quite the learning experience. I've had pretty good luck with the shade plants that I put in the back yard. I put in Solomon's seal, brunnera, pulmonaria, ferns, hostas, hellebore and a few other similar plants and they've all done reasonably well. The shade protects them from the heat and the soil back there is more moisture-retentive. But the bed in the front yard has really suffered, even though parts of it are shaded and even with frequent watering. Even established, drought tolerant plants have suffered - the lamb's ears have been dying back and the yarrow is alive, but just barely - and a lot of the new plants I put in have died or just barely survived. One thing I have noticed is that locally grown plants seem to do better than plants I've gotten by mail-order or from big box stores. As soon as the weather cools down some I'm going to try ammending the soil in the front bed with compost and/or manure to see if that helps, and I am going to stick with drought tolerant plants as much as possible going forward. I'm with you Cameron - anything that doesn't make it through this doesn't get planted again. My container annuals are doing a lot better now that I've packed the tops of the pots with sphagnum moss. It holds the moisture really well and I can go a couple of days between watering since I did that.

This is a very complicated remodel process. For one, I would never suggest that a homeowner live in the house during such a project, considering the discomfort and safety issues. In such a project the first order of business would be the demolition of the roof and old wiring going over the ceiling to the first floor.(which essentially would make the house unlivable) Removal and replacement of window and door headers would also be required. Getting the second floor deck on would be the highest priority to keep water from getting into the existing. I'd find someone who can show they've done one of these projects or a project of similar complexity. Also, Ron's comment about subs is on target. Any contractor who claims he has a 'crew' of hired professionals on his staff is blowing hot air. Most all contractors use subcontractors for most trades, even down to demolition. The cost for hired labor is enormous. Any good contractor should have positive relationships with a variety of subs in all the trades that he/she should have walking through the house and meeting with you as well during the bid process. You should also have plans of what you want, and an assessment from an engineer on the structural viability of the project, either from the contractor or obtained on your own. Expect to pay some good money for a set of plans worked out with you. The designer/architect can recommend an engineer to review the plans and make recommendations to ensure the structural integrity of the framing plans.

OMG! You are cleaning "deep". I'm so glad I didn't start scraping my popcorn ceiling in the bathroom this week. I've got to many projects started and company coming Friday. Gayle

Yes, that is where those photos were taken, in lowland tropical rainforest on the east side of the island with the prevailing wind from the ocean to the south east. Even in the dry season relative humidity remains fairly high. Although the dry season lasts about 6 months, the high peaks on the island can generate rain events during that time of year. The range of C, madidum overlaps the range of C, suave, both occupying similar habitat and both looking fairly similar. The C. suave extends a lot further south (towards the Pole) and is probably the most cold tolerant of the two.