Loger, I dont remember the post where I read these remarks. It appears that some of the problem comes from when the tiller is not stored inside and water gets into the clam shell gear box, or it not being lubed properly. I under stand there is a shift rod that can come loose inside the transmission, also the #35 chain that drives the wheels can break. My son has a till of a different brand, but looks like mind. His is older than mine and has had no gear or chain problems. (only carb problems, he does not use his as often as I use mine). He has a friend with a tiller almost like ours. His developed a leak where the to clam shell meet on top and the trany filled with water and he kept using it till it broke. He repaired it but it was a nasty job. I will try to post a picture of mine showing it is much like the one you were asking about. It is a counter rotating tine, so the wheels spin going forward. ( I always till as deep as it will go. Also note that I have a rope tied to the front of it to drag things around the lawn and garden which puts added stress on the #35 drive chain. I dont think it has been rained on in the 9 or 10 years I have owned it so I expect there is no water in my gear box. Larry

I used a rented Stihl today on my overgrown construction site. It had a 3 blade head with the bicycle handbars. It went ok, seemed to have a small gas tank but as it keeps the weight down and I have an herniated disk that's ok. Starting was a big tricky though. I have lots and lots of huge....road hemp? Sort of looks like marijuana. Some of the stalks were probably 2-3" at the bottom. Also lots and lots of button weed (?) as in I felt like a forester at times. If I fell down I didn't think anyone would find me. Did good on the big weeds but the grass would slow it up oddly enough. I didn't want to have to buy one but think I might have to break down. I would like the lightest weight model, safety and this sort of brush cutting power. Sounds like the Stihl or Tanaka are favorites here. No Craftsman? I have no idea where to get these other than looking at the big box stores. Mary

gotta love threads like these, and gotta love the people that need to convince themselves that their $3,000 honda generator was made by GOD himself and since they bought one, - everyone else should buy one too. especially had to laugh when someone suggested buying a generac over a another brand with a real honda engine. let me remind everyone that pride of ownership is a huge factor here, and if you ever take a trip to a honda dealer, you will find a long line of equipment in the back room waiting for repairs. so just because you bought one of the most expensive generators around, doesnt mean they dont break. so seriousy - get over yourself. i know this is an old thread but the issue will go on forever. my personal feeling if i were to buy another generator, is to buy the same deal the OP described. many suppliers offer generators with real honda engines for about $200 more than a similar sized unit with a honda clone. AND - even the honda clones these days are extremely reliable if broken in and maintained properly. what many people dont know, is the clone engines are designed using expired honda patents, and have come a long way in recent years. the karting world even has a separate racing class for them, and a 6.5 hp engine can be modified to push almost 20hp and rev up to 9000 rpm. that being said, a clone motor will have NO PROBLEM running a generator at 3600 for the occasional black out and power loss so long as you use common sense to maintain it. i dont care if JESUS HIMSELF built your honda generator, if you leave the same gas in it for 4 years - your carb will need to be cleaned. now - i am not saying that honda and honda clones are of equal quality and reliability, but something has to be said for a $650 ETQ generator with a pure sign wave, that makes more power (7250 cont) and will keep my lights on just as well as a $3,000 Honda with 5000 cont watts.. furthermore, after your 2 year warranty expires on your $3,000 honda, you can enjoy the $100 an hour labor rate, and $1200 repair bill god forbid you ever need to bring it to a dealer for repair - THAT YOU WILL DO since you spent so much money for the "best" me on the other hand - if my $650 generator gets used 3 times in years, i will feel i got my moneys worth out if it, and it it dies - i will toss it the garbage or sell it for parts, and buy another brand new generator with another 2 yr warranty for less than you paid for the labor alone on your repair bill.. - unless your a contractor using the thing on remote jobsites for 30 weeks out of the year, you have no need for a $3,000 portable generator anyway, because this is who these things are made for. for $2400 you can buy a 12kw whole house standy unit at costco made by generac, thats completely automatic, runs off natural gas, and is big enough to run 2 central air units along with most of your home. lastly - I hate to break the news to all the honda guys, but honda is not the "top of the line" when it comes to reliable generators. i work for a major utility company, and you will not find ONE honda generator on ANY utility truck.

A fuel shutoff valve is recommended if you have a "gravity feed" fuel system (tank higher than carb) to eliminate the chance of fuel flowing through the carb when the engine is not running. As bill stated "a good carb doesn't leak". Fuel might flow through a "good carb" if the machine is parked on an unlevel surface because that can defeat the ability of the float to shut the needle valve which controls the flow of fuel into the carb and keeps it at a specific height or level in the bowl. Machines that require a fuel pump (carb higher than tank) to move the fuel from the tank to the carb are not usually affected by this unless they are parked with the fuel tank elevated higher than the carb. Equipping your fuel line with a cutoff valve is good insurance against one of those things that ain't supposed to happen. No, it is not "normal" to lose fuel. It's unfortunate and hazardous.