This is all great and dandy but how can we apply this info? How can you compare older mowers (before 2008) to the newer ones (2008 onward) to make a decision on what to buy? I have decided to summarize the pertinent information in a very concise way so any consumer can have a starting point for comparison in a SIMPLE way. First, if you have an "older mower" you need to know its effective HP based on its operating RPM. Example: Want to know the actual HP of your older mower? Older mower is 6 HP. Multiply by 0.85 = 5.1 HP ("Real" HP) 0.85 = 3060/3600 (to convert from tested RPM to actual RPM) Too hard to calculate in your head on the spot? Try multiplying by 0.8, then add 0.3 to your answer. This is a close approximation. Want to know the torque of your older mower? First, make sure you know the "real" HP of your motor (as above). Then use the "real" HP as follows: Older mower is 5.1 HP. Divide by 0.6 (or multiply by 10 and divide by 6) = 8.5 ft-lb. Want to know the HP of a newer mower? Newer mower is 7 ft-lb torque. Multiply by 0.6 = 4.2 HP Remember, this is only to give you simple way to do a comparison but it is based on a few assumptions. (They are not important, just to keep it simple.) Don't bother trying to compare size or displacement of a motor shown in cc's for the simple reason that even B & S has the same 190 cc motor that is sold as a 6.75 ft-lb torque model all the way to an 8.5 ft-lb torque model. I hope this helps someone. It sure did for me when I had to buy a new one yesterday. (I registered on this forum just so I could share this.)

A fuel shutoff valve is recommended if you have a "gravity feed" fuel system (tank higher than carb) to eliminate the chance of fuel flowing through the carb when the engine is not running. As bill stated "a good carb doesn't leak". Fuel might flow through a "good carb" if the machine is parked on an unlevel surface because that can defeat the ability of the float to shut the needle valve which controls the flow of fuel into the carb and keeps it at a specific height or level in the bowl. Machines that require a fuel pump (carb higher than tank) to move the fuel from the tank to the carb are not usually affected by this unless they are parked with the fuel tank elevated higher than the carb. Equipping your fuel line with a cutoff valve is good insurance against one of those things that ain't supposed to happen. No, it is not "normal" to lose fuel. It's unfortunate and hazardous.

I put a new Briggs 16 HP cast iron engine (Model 326437) in our 1971 or 2 Gilson. Did this in 1983, and installed an hour meter at the same time. The engine now has well over 1000 hours and just this summer began burning oil. On taking it apart, the valves and valve seats were still excellent, the bore showed almost no wear, and the crankshaft connecting rod journal looks good and is within the Briggs' manual reject limits. The piston was the main sufferer. It has an eroded top land near the exhaust valve side. I've ordered a new standard size piston, connecting rod, and a set of very pricey chromium plated piston rings. These are no longer sold by Briggs, but I found set from a parts supplier. When the engine was new I added an oil filter and have used Mobil 1 synthetic ever since, 20-50 weight. Also clean the air filter regularly, oil the foam band around the air filter, and change the oil when it looks dirty, which is often much more than the 25 hours recommended by Briggs. I believe that other engine brands would do as well, or better given equal care. My favorite engine is the little Kubota on our ZTR.

What about my geographical area- central Florida. 2004?? had three hurricanes in just a few weeks. Many , many people were out of city/county power for six plus weeks. Gas types not feasible because trees blocked roads for weeks, no gas was able to be delivered. I have three friends close friends with generators. Two of them have Generac- one has 9,000 the other 7,000 I think. Both ran for weeks. One of them starts each month and runs for 10 minutes with self check system. This one is natural gas. Other is propane. Next door neighbor has gas 4,000??. Used sparingly during storm- and I do mean sparingly- bath water/toilet was taken from rain spouts (never ending rain). Used for frig only. Grill for cooking. That generator would not start again when checked/cleaned for storage after hurricanes. I want a propane for upcoming build. Acreage/rural, so no natural gas. What brands do those of you who do not like Generac suggest?? Thx