You are correct, however some people invite abuse... "So when you stroll into WalMart and get that good deal by buying a "made in China Product" that WalMart is stocking so they can make a 60% mark up on instead of a 20% mark up - if it were made in the USA, feel good about if you can. Me, I don't shop at WalMart anymore. I think it's almost an un-American thing to do." good example of supply and demand... is walmart american owned?? "China for sure they cast about 80% of all manufacturing, why CHEAP Labor (prbably less than .75 cents and hour), no environmental laws, no laws, no law suits due to they won't recognize international laws or patents IMO. Who suffers? The Blue collar workers all over the world. " ANother supply and demand.. all over the world. "IMO CEO's/manager's are selling American Blue collar jobs out every day, One day there not going to need white collar worker's either and the day will come when they have no market to sell there slave labor products, unless of course they are in the food stamp product business. " Sounds like he could do a better job, why not apply for it. "Sad, Very Sad that Companies and CEO will sell out there own work force to line there already filty rich pockets. For what, a few more billion dollars" Another one that could make a better CEO. "But you are sadly mistaken about the board of directors. They are handpicked buddies of the CEO. In fact almost all of them are CEO's of another corporation. So when it comes down to voting on my pay package, this month it's your turn to pat my back. Next month when we vote on your pay package, since I'm on your board of directors, I'll return the favor, for sure. That's how our corporate aristocracy works now and it's how vast fortunes are made. " Here's another guy who really knows how the corporate world works, seems like he could get himself one of these sweet jobs. "IMO that's why they don't want to go to a flat tax rate, the well off will be taxed fairly then, But everybody got an opinion, that's one benefit the free world gets with no taxes or penalties. IMO if you want to sell on the world market then there should be a world minimum wage" This guys has got to be kidding, the rich WANT a flat tax. Does he have any idea on the percentages of tax paid by income bracket? Do you think he knows what a regressive tax is?? Probably not given his post. And "world minimu wage"?? ROTFLMAO!!! "They have their own military and "hit-men" for those that oppose their actions. " too much TV, to much alcohol or something along those lines and the BEST for last..... "Personally, I find college overrated. I have a BA degree from an Ivy League school, but aside from being able to hold a conversation at a hoi-polloi wine-and-cheese event, it doesn't have a lot of relevance to what I do for a living. My degree is in American History, yet I'm a Computer Systems Engineer by trade. Go figure. One thing I did get out of it- loads of debt! A lot of people don't need college- and yet we force our young people to go because "you need a degree." Then, we saddle them with debt." Who is the "we" that is saddling idiots like him with debt? Who is forcing anyone to go to college? And he admits in this same post he has a BA from an Ivy League school and is debt because of it? Should of tried for a BS degree at a local college (BS - Bachelor of Science, BA- Bachelor of Arts). No wonder this fool thinks college is overated.

This is all great and dandy but how can we apply this info? How can you compare older mowers (before 2008) to the newer ones (2008 onward) to make a decision on what to buy? I have decided to summarize the pertinent information in a very concise way so any consumer can have a starting point for comparison in a SIMPLE way. First, if you have an "older mower" you need to know its effective HP based on its operating RPM. Example: Want to know the actual HP of your older mower? Older mower is 6 HP. Multiply by 0.85 = 5.1 HP ("Real" HP) 0.85 = 3060/3600 (to convert from tested RPM to actual RPM) Too hard to calculate in your head on the spot? Try multiplying by 0.8, then add 0.3 to your answer. This is a close approximation. Want to know the torque of your older mower? First, make sure you know the "real" HP of your motor (as above). Then use the "real" HP as follows: Older mower is 5.1 HP. Divide by 0.6 (or multiply by 10 and divide by 6) = 8.5 ft-lb. Want to know the HP of a newer mower? Newer mower is 7 ft-lb torque. Multiply by 0.6 = 4.2 HP Remember, this is only to give you simple way to do a comparison but it is based on a few assumptions. (They are not important, just to keep it simple.) Don't bother trying to compare size or displacement of a motor shown in cc's for the simple reason that even B & S has the same 190 cc motor that is sold as a 6.75 ft-lb torque model all the way to an 8.5 ft-lb torque model. I hope this helps someone. It sure did for me when I had to buy a new one yesterday. (I registered on this forum just so I could share this.)

I used a rented Stihl today on my overgrown construction site. It had a 3 blade head with the bicycle handbars. It went ok, seemed to have a small gas tank but as it keeps the weight down and I have an herniated disk that's ok. Starting was a big tricky though. I have lots and lots of huge....road hemp? Sort of looks like marijuana. Some of the stalks were probably 2-3" at the bottom. Also lots and lots of button weed (?) as in I felt like a forester at times. If I fell down I didn't think anyone would find me. Did good on the big weeds but the grass would slow it up oddly enough. I didn't want to have to buy one but think I might have to break down. I would like the lightest weight model, safety and this sort of brush cutting power. Sounds like the Stihl or Tanaka are favorites here. No Craftsman? I have no idea where to get these other than looking at the big box stores. Mary

The EY28 is a good engine, as are all of the old Wisconsin and Subaru Robins. Being a flat head is OK, just somewhat less efficient than an OHV or OHC engine. Your EY28 produces 7.5hp from 280cc, the current EH25 OHV produces 8.5hp from 250cc. The OHV also uses about 20% less fuel. More importantly to Robin/Wisconsin, the old flat heads are not as clean emissions-wise, and can no longer be certified. That's why all of the engine makers have pretty much replaced flat heads with OHV construction, especially in California where CARB standards are even more stringent than EPA. The type of ignition is more important to me. The EY28 came fitted with both electronic and the older breaker-point ignitions. The electronic is almost idiot proof, unless the coil fails. If the electronic fails, it easy but expensive to replace. Breaker points, however are a maintenance item. The need to be cleaned and re-gapped periodically, and are located under the flywheel, which makes it a bigger job. If engine is equipped with electronic (transistorized), forget everything I said. Your regular small engine mechanic should be fine, provided he's competent. I'd pull down the manuals from Subaru (Parts, Service, and Operating) so he has something for reference. I'd also chase the internet to see who handles parts. While things are much better now that Subaru is directly involved, parts are still more expensive and harder to find than Briggs, Honda, or Kohler. No harm trying to light it up, as long as oil is good. Carburetor may be gummed up from sitting, particularly if not stored properly. You may have to disassemble and boil everything out. Check for ignition, then squirt a little gas down the air horn and see if it lights. Then put some gas in tank, and see if it will run. If not, you or your mechanic will probably have to go through the carb.