Depends on how big the wood is that he will be cutting and how often. If he knows how to take care of things and properly run a chainsaw I'd spend more money on it. They are not hammers, they are tools that need adjustment and care. I am wondering if he knows how to work a chainsaw if the chain fell off. There could be mechanical reasons why it fell off, but there are many operator error reasons why it could have fallen off. Ok, assuming he know what he is doing and assuming he is keeping to wood under 30" diameter, I'd recommend a 60-70cc saw from Husky or Stihl. There are others to recommend but I'll stick with these. That size of motor will let you run a 20" bar no problem. You could run larger if you take it easy, but a 20" bar would be really comfortable on a saw that size. Depending on how much you want to spend you could buy a pro model or save a little and get a landowner/mid-range saw. I'd stay away from the lower end saws. I know where there is a Stihl 036 Pro for sale(not mine and not a friend either). You might be able to get it for $400 (~$600 retail) but it might be gone soon. It would be one of my top choices in a 60cc saw. Light for it's engine size, good power and very smooth. Post your email if you are interested (don't make it obvious for the spammers, something like "me at here dot com". Granted it is an older version of the saw but the newer saws do not have much on this saw. If I needed a 60cc saw I would probably pick this one up. For the safety part, one of the best things you could do is get him a good pair of chaps (6-ply from labonville for about $80) and a forestry helmet with integrated hearing protection and face shield. The best

You're mostly right ewalk about the bar and chain. You brought up a point that I forgot to mention :). Besides a dull chain, poor oiling and tension, you can also have a bar or chain that is damaged and will cause problems. With heat build up and damage to the bar and chain. In most cases, you would expect binding to show up early in the cut. But if the binding is on the border, the buildup of heat over 5-10 minutes can make it worse. Often you will see the chain start to loosen as heat builds up. Eventually you will see some smoke and can smell the smoldering bar oil. Good explanation of how to properly tension. It is definitely not a one rule operation. I can only add that a new chain should be checked often for proper tension. The loosen up in the first few minutes of cutting. If you don't stop to retension, they can jump off the rails and ruin a good chain and maybe sprocket, even clutch. I imagine it could even come back and hit the operator. So far it does not sound like a clutch problem. If he is getting good cutting in the first few minutes, something is changing along the way. The chain/bar/oil combo is simplest. The engine parts get more involved and expensive (seals, boots, carb, etc). I bought a solid nose bar a few years ago on special. I did not know better but I don't think I would buy one again. They are supposedly more durable, but the chain definitely did not run smooth. I did not have gauges to check the spacing on the rails and purchased another bar. The solid nose bar is still sitting. Oh and please do not grab your bar and chain at any time with the saw running. Chain brakes are fairly safe but they are only a band the wraps the clutch. The brake can fail. Always turn off your saw before touching the bar or chain. I neglected to say so in my above post.

Quotes from Sept 28, 2011. Southwest Michigan. I have no gutters currently. My roof is rectangular gabled. My fascia is 48 ft X 32 ft. I've gotten four quotes for 5 inch continuous gutter including two 3X4 downspouts. First quote 700 dollars. Company not listed with the BBB. Teenager came in a beater truck to make the quote and offered nothing in writing... said he'd email it if i wanted. He did not know, nor could I find out subsequently what the gauge of material was. Probably not allowed to name names here but this was a very well known outfit nationwide. Third quote was 920 dollars. Respected local contractor with lots of commercial references and A+ BBB rating. .032 ga continuous 5 inch. Second quote was between the two above, but using .027 ga and less well known contractor with little commercial experience/references. Fourth quote was from another nationwide well known name specializing in leaf guard systems. .032 continuous 5 inch gutter. Snap Lock fastening system. Leaf guard system. Sounds great. But... wait for it...7400.00 dollars. Holy @#it. Minus the leaf guard system.... 3800.00 dollars. Minus the SnapLock system.... 1900.00 dollars. All quoting contractors above were checked for insurance/bonding, warranty, etc and were comparable. The fourth quote offered essentially the same quality and content as the third, for 1000 dollars more. Easy choice. However.... I really do like the idea of the SnapLock system for three reasons. **It does not pierce the rear of the gutter at any point, eliminating potential leaks into the fascia/screws/fasteners. **It separates the back surface of the gutter from the fascia board by about 1/4 inch preventing water from remaining trapped against the wood and promoting rot. This is especially important since my fascia is processed wood and prone, if the sealing layer is damaged, to absorb water. **It allows a 50 ft run of continuous .032 inch gutter to expand and contract along its entire length without affecting the fasteners at all. It's too bad that there are not some competing alternatives to the SnapLock system. I can find nothing online. It's a great idea, but as an option it is no more than a single narrow strip of extruded aluminum added behind the gutter combined with modified hangars for attachment Approximately 150 dollars in additional material costs for the installer, quoted to me at 2900.00 dollars beyond my previously highest quote!!!!! And SnapLock is exclusive to the vendor mentioned above (quote four).

I think the writer you are thinking of is the late Lilian Beckwith who wrote The Hills is Lonely and several other humorous books about the Hebrides. mariannese, the Norsemen/Vikings landed first on the Shetland and Orkney Isles, to the North of Scotland (the Hebrides are on the West coast) they were remarkable sea-men. Even to this day the Shetlanders see themselves as quite distinct from the Scots . . . no pipes, reels, tartans etc although they became part of Scotland in about 1450 as they made up part of the dowry of a Norwegian Princess when she was bethrothed to the King of Scotland. As children we used to stay on Unst, the most northerly of the islands in the days before oil was discovered in the North Sea. A fascinating, remote area, really wild Shetland ponies, almost as wild sheep, sea-birds that would attack humans at nesting times, very laid-back but independent people and the most incredible clear air free of nearly all pollution. Sorry I sound like a 'travelogue' :-) "And so as the sun sets on the Holm of Vatsland, we say farewell to Shetland" Here is a link that might be useful: Lilian Beckwuth