Thanks for helping me get this figured out. We are going to use 14 x 3-1/4 rectangular duct, which as you guys pointed out is the same area as 8 inch round. It's going to come across the ceiling and make a 90 degree turn (actually going to use 2 45s as fits easier and better air flow) so that it exits over the shorter window to the left that you see in the pictures above. It won't fit through the mess of existing plumbing that is between the two big windows and can't go over one of the bigger windows as they have exterior trim that extends 18" above the window. Glad I noticed that one! So, ceiling is going to drop to 9 feet, which puts it 3-1/2 or 4 inches above the top of the window molding, which is the same distance as all the upstairs windows in the house, so should look fine. I'm very relieved not to have the ceiling sitting right on the windows, seems like it would be claustrophobic. Now I'm just hoping that I'm still going to like the pendant lights I ordered with the lower ceiling. Luckily they are chain, so we can shorten them.

I figured it out. Problem with adjusting the limit switches was due to a missing pin on a gear that is on the main motor shaft that turns another gear that moves a plastic screw that hits the up and down limit switches. In other words, the internal up/down limit switches were not getting consistant feedback of the garage door position. Nothing that a twisty tie from a garbage bag couldn't fix. So that problem was fixed. The garage door now moves and it now moves up and down without whacking the header going down and the stop limit bolt (protecting the GDO motor unit) on the way up. I knew I was wasting time when the manual says a single rotation on either screw would result in a 2 inch travel change. and nothing I did was consistant. It either hit the bolt or header or it would just HUM and not do anything. I think the original problem of why the belt's tention spring/bolt came undone was due to excessive vibration due to non-sufficient belt tension. As soon as i got the garage door operational, I noticed it was hecka jerky initially going up or initially going down. Mid-travel was smoother. By tightening the nut (collapsing the tension spring) to the 1.25 inches specified in the owners manual seemed to make the garage door much smoother. When I have the time, I'll adjust the force screws down. I think I have them maxxed out right now. I'll also test the safety/reversing feature. For now, it open and closes smoothly. I'm happy. So, while the owners manual didn't tell me to open the thing up, common sense told me to. Also, this unit has a diagnostic feature. When you press the LEARN button, it will light up the diagnostic light and blink. 5 blinks told me the motor was overheated or the RPM sensor wasn't happy. No mention of what the RPM sensor was. I'm assuming something was stuck. Anyways, adjusting the limit switches got it moving and once I cracked open the motor housing case and saw the limit switches in action and saw how misaligned they were, it was a pretty easy fix. Glad I disconnected the door so I could cycle the belt for testing without crashing the door. that made way too much noise at 10PM tonight. Once again, thanks for your help and I hope something in this helps someone.

If you see an arrow on a metal track with a screw above it that has a specific point for a specific screwdriver that comes with the drawers. There is an arrow pointing towards the front of the drawer; there is a small metal latch. Pull it towards you on both sides. It should start moving if you wiggle just a bit. Wear gloves if you don't want to hurt your fingers. If it's old, the metal & plywood can be warped as well as VERY child proofed. It should work. You could also use Google Lens, Meta AI, etc. Good luck!

I spent yesterday pouring over images of vintage bathrooms and kitchens (the two most easy to date rooms). I looked at images from 1900-2018 and every year in between. My estimation is this, and some may disagree with me: nothing, and I mean NOTHING, stays fashionable forever. It may have a resurgence in popularity several decades later, but it will also have dated times in between, no matter the era. And when it does come back, it usually comes back in a slightly different "version" so that even the original carries a bit of "off" ness. Some of the modern bathrooms today carry a bit of 1920s look, or 1980s look, but actual bathrooms from the 1920s and 1980s would still be remodeled by the discriminating homeowner. (I am one, my husband is less fussy!) Funnily enough -- I tried to get my parents to use black and white tile in their bathroom in 2000, and they both said "yuck!" LOL! My dad said "no way, that is so dated, it reminds me of the tile from the 30s" (he was a kid then). LOL!!! I said "yuck" at the time to their tan stone tile (not a fan of tan). Looking at the 40s, 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s, 00s, only elements here and there come back into fashion. I looked at plenty of 20s and 30s bathrooms and while the tile color was similar to todays tile colors, often the way tile was laid out can become dated; like tiling halfway up all walls, and all around a confined shower room, as opposed to having an open walk-in shower with glass doors. Now mix in a floating vanity from the 1970s and quartz countertops and vessel sinks and you've got 2019. Patterned tile from the 1970s is also back in fashion, but NOT with the same color pallatte. You may have to go 100 years before your tile comes back into fashion! 10 years out - almost certainly dated. The closest thing I can see to making a home timeless is try not to make it look like every other house on the block that's being built this year, but even with that there's a limit to how much you can do. I'll try my best. Remodel or price reduction may be inevitable. Lots of good advice on pricing. I'll try to understand that any $400 tile is for me and me alone, and if I can't stomach the cost, I'll try to make subway tile look good. :D einportlander -- what your friends went through, this is EXACTLY what' I'm seeing! From your name I assume you're from Portland so you know what I'm talking about -- how there are lots of things from the year 2000 suddenly hitting the market, especially on the Washington side (Camas, WA was practically built in 2000) or further out from the city like in West Linn. One 4500 sqft home sold in one week for 2.5 million in Lake Oswego, while larger homes, even 9,000 sqft on 3 acres in Lake Oswego sold for 1.7 after sitting on the market for over 1 year and going through a price reduction! This could really only be a pricing problem -- people expect to get top dollar for their home but their idea of it's worth isn't realistic. Looking at these homes as a buyer, all I thought was how much will it cost to replace the finishes in 9000 sqft? We learned after getting a quote from a trusted contractor that it costs nearly as much as it does to just build your own, so that's what we're doing! I'm having a hard time talking myself into splurging on finishes only to become a story like your friend. I've conceded that there's a good chance we'll have to sell for less than we "think" it's worth when the time comes. But at least I'm going into the process with my eyes wide open!