It nice to know that there are others who took the same initial approach that I did. Early this spring I decided that I was going to avoid the bargain shopping trips, and also not buy anything unless I knew exactly what I needed for a specific location, and then I researched my options thoroughly. Except for a few perennial purchases, which I knew I would want anyway, I stuck to my new rule. Here is how I fixed my mess. I looked at every major area and decided what I did or didn't like about it, then tried to figure out how to correct problems that needed correcting. Once I did that, I made lists of everything I had, determined which little micro-climate each plant would grow best in, then proceeded to place them based on size, color, shape, etc. One thing that helped me "see" where to put the shrubs and trees was to use 4' tall stakes where I was thinking about putting something. This gave me a solid point to look at instead of depending on my minds eye. It served to be an invaluable exercise. I also used a person holding a long stake to simulate a tree so I knew exactly where it should go. Another thing that helped was that I made a measuring stick out of an 8-foot long, 1 x 1 piece of wood by placing marks on it for every foot. This helped me place each shrub neither too close or too far from anything. Im not always accurate at eyeballing the spacing of anything over 3Â, anything over 5Â IÂm hopeless. After moving nearly everything, I only needed to purchase 4 major shrubs and one tree. Their spaces were planned and there were stakes in the ground marking where they needed to go. Planting happened almost immediately after the plants were brought home. The first layer is nearly completed, and perennials are filling a lot of the small gaps for now. Next year I will tweak the second layer, but itÂs so much easier to see what needs improving because 90% of the first layer was thoughtfully planted. I made a few mistakes, but that was near the end of all the plant moves, my body was screaming at me to stop, and it was just beginning to get hot, so I rushed. I ended up making over 130 plant moves this year. I tossed out or gave away plants that didn't fit, and I got rid of a couple of things that were more trouble than they were worth. It was a waste of money, but a lesson learned. What really surprised me when I finished for the season, was that by establishing the first tier and placing trees where they needed to be, the garden seemed to come into itÂs own, or that it could come into itÂs own despite there being a lot of area that need to be filled. I donÂt know if that makes sense, but what I do know is that I am cured of bargain plant shopping, and rescuing sad little plants from big box stores and other places who have no business selling plants (ignore those little clematis from the big box store, they donÂt count). I found it much more satisfying to carefully select plants before going shopping, and I had a lot more time in the garden than I would have if I had kept up my usual garden center hopping habit. Most of those garden centers carry the same plants, have you noticed that? As soon as you establish the bones of your garden, and you can do it if you stay home instead of going out hunting, you will be in a position that will allow you carefully choose what plants you really want. You will be able to keep up with planting and it will be much more enjoyable.

Well thanks jim98520, I've been "around the block" a few times (mechanically speaking). I've had "good mentors" (mostly because I sought them out) all my life. But I am not the most important member on this forum, there are many who have spent a lot more working hours in the OPE field than I have. I have posted some incorrect info on this forum myself (sorry about your yard), but USUALLY, the more knowledgeable, experienced members stand me up straight, and I promise not to do it again. I do this because of people like my sister, and some aunts and cousins. People who want to try saving some money by DIY. People who want to have a second or third (or more) opinion about their "ailing tractorwhatever". People who have been ripped off (or think they might have been). This forum gives folks a means of getting info and opinions that they could not purchase for any price (haha, I visited a "website" once that "was charging" for answers! Yuk, yuk....YUCK!) Sorry about whatever circumstances have led to your "censorship" (if that be it). It "chillingly" reminded me of getting "chastised" (along with one of my bosses) at work. I sent an "innocent e-mail" to "a vendor" that contracts with my employer. Well, the contact person at the "vendor" forwarded my request for technical data to his boss who forwarded it to my "boss's boss's boss". Of course, all that trickled back down and first thing I know is my boss's boss is ticked at my boss. My boss (though he knew in advance about my intent) said "I guess we better not do that anymore." I said, "I bet your right about that." You might have to come up with a "different psuedonym" (psst. don't tell anybody at work about it).

Kathy, Let me see if I can answer your questions and not miss any...LOL I am no typist..for sure. Yes, I use Zeager Mulch...I use a few of their products..at my home and for my work. I put it down between 3-4 inches thick..trying to stay close to 3. I will gice you a link to this particular products site...but even in just my area there are over 12 places that sell a very similiar product and most use a very similiar method to make it. It composts at high temps..180 degrees or so in the piles.thus NO weed seeds at all. No insects either..to hot to live in it. Cost will very on transportation, but I get a very good wholesale price for it. To see details please just check out their site and it will answer most of your other questions. http://www.zeager.com/landscapingproducts.htm Thus the reason I aksed what you guy's call a "Field"..if doing 5 acres..i'm sure it might prove to costly...but for an acre or so..I think well worth the cost and not having to use chemicals..JMHO Each to their own..but I don't like having to weed...at all. I am also not saying some of you may use an mulch that has brought in weeds and such..but I KNOW what I use...does NOT...for sure. Yes, You can and will get a bird that "Drops" a seed here and there..and yes, a chipper that buries a little cluster of seeds it might gather..and yup even a squirrel that may bury a acorn here and there...but other wise no weed problems. Brooke..no bags..wouldn't come close to covering the areas I must use it on.I buy it Bulk...Tri-axle loads and on ocassion live-bottom tractor trailer loads, mostly for large jobs when needed. To best answer your Daylily questions...I'm not into the Seedling beds, yet..I grow only about 800 different daylilies and a few hundred other trees/shrubs/perennials I just got into Daylilies a few years back..thus just making new seedling beds this year for future crosses...I'm a newbie to Daylilies..but by no means a newbie to plants..I am Retired Army and I am a landscaper/hardscaper now that I have retired...I am not real familiar with the terms you guys use on here..thus I have to ask many questions..but some things relate in my work with what we do with daylilies..thus...why I asked why you guy's weed so much and use chemicals all the time to control weeds...now that I understand you have 5 plus acres of field grown Daylilies I can see the need....But I still don't see why you must spend so much time weeding...I really don't...Sorry So..anyway I hope some of you guy's find the info on the Mulch site I posted, interesting and worthwhile..I know it saves my back..alot of pain and gives me more time to enjoy what I grow..not ...weed it..LOL Enjoy, Rick PS...now if you can tell me how to rid what lawn I have of weeds..I'll be a Happy Camper..too...:)

Aleighjc, I read your Georgia post and you may be a few degrees warmer than I am. I am near Lake Lanier and Hall county line. If you are in a Subdivision or surrounded by lots of trees or buildings you will be warmer. I am out in the open. The bananas are Musa Basjoo and the Elephant ears are Colocasias. I have several varieties that will live outdoors. If you are near Lawrenceville Court house there is a nursery on 29. Randy's Perennials and Water Gardens. He has lots of Palms and desert plants. However he does cover most of them in the winter. some are really zone 8 or higher. I never cover my bananas or the opuntias, gingers (hedychium and cucurma), or colocasias or my Trachycarpus fortunei palms. Certain palms and bananas you will need to protect.