Check your camera menu and turn on the optical zoom - that should take you out to 21x

It all depends on where the zoom range starts. If your old camera's shortest focal length was 40 mm (35mm filn equivalent), then it would be 400 mm at 10x zoom. But, 35 to 40 mm is not very much wide angle.

Now suppose the new lens starts at 28 mm, 20x would be 560 mm and that is not twice 400 mm.

I'm not familar with your model, but there is another 'gotcha' in digital cameras and that is an apparent extension of the zoom range digitally. At the end of the zoom range, the digital zoom comes into play by expanding the picture. Essentially, it is cropping the scene and stretching it to fill the frame. Definition falls because fewer pixels are present. Its the same as later, cropping a photo and then expanding it to fill the frame. This feature was used as an advertising gimmic. Lets say the camera has 10x optical zoom plus 2x digital zoom. The blurb on the box might say, "Up to 20x zoom" when in fact it had only 10x optical. I don't think Kodak was that deceptive and made a distinction between these two zoom effects. At present, the older deception has diminshed in the market place. But you should be aware of the difference when comparing cameras.

Personally, I do not use the digital zoom. I can accomplish the same effect later with photo editing software, therefore, I record using the full pixel count.

Those big zooms sounds great, but you should consider the practical side. Anytime you zoom beyond 2x, you'll need aids to keep the camera steady. Sure, I've sucessfully shot at 5x zoom with a fast shutter speed. The shots improved if the camera was on a strudy tripod.

Look at the other specification on zoom lenes and that is lens opening AKA f-stop. e.g. f/5.8 is the focal length divided by 5.8 and is a measure of the light density at the focal plane or sensor. Lenses are not always marked with the / to indicate division, but will diaplay only the divisor. A typical set of marks might be 2.8; 3.5; 5.8; 8; 11; and 16. An aperture of f/8 lets in twice the light as f/16.

On zoom lenses, the mazimun aperture occurs at the shortest focal length, for example: f/2.8 at 28mm. As the focal length is zoomed out, the maximum aperature falls. The amount of reduction is not the same for all lenses but is a function of its design. So, when a f/2.8 lens is zoomed out 10x, the maximum aperature might have fallen to f/8. This means that the shutter speed has to be slower to make an exposure. This effect works against making sharp images at long zoom.

So, when comparing zoom lenses, also compare maximun aperature at full zoom. A great lens has larger aperatures at zoom lengths. I've noted lately, that amnufacturers are omiting full disclosure of lens markings and showing only the zoom range. This is a red flag.

In general for constant exposure, the longer the zoom, the faster the shutter speed, or greater the aperture.

Unfortunately, shutter speed and aperature size run counter to each other. As a lens is zoomed out, the maximum aperatue reduces and requies a longer exposure, just what you did not want.

Wow, a lot of this is way over my head!!!but thanks for your input. I do know that I need a camera with image stabilization, which this one does not have, My primary need is shooting birds up close from the house. I may take this one back, not sure yet. Thanks

Bigack,

Check your operators manual closely...according to the specs for the Kodak Z5010 it does have image stabilization.
Perhaps you do not have it turned on.

Your lens has a total zoom range of 25mm to 525mm (525/25=21x)

In winter I also primarily shoot birds from in the house and I can tell you first hand that trying to consistantly shoot birds from indoors with winter lighting conditions and a hand held camera is an exercise in futility.

Try setting your camera up on a tripod and focus on your bird feeder, then adjust your exposure to give the maximum shutter speed that will still yeild a total depth of field area of about 10ft. That would give you from 5' in front to 5' behind the bird feeder. I then use a remote control to trip the shutter to prevent any camera shake while depressing the button.

Now, study the habits of the birds you want to shoot. Some birds such as Cardinals & Jays travel in pairs, and while one is eating, the other will sit up on a higher perch as a lookout, to signal if a threat is approaching. They also habitually use the same lookout perch, so if you want to get a natural shot instead of on the bird feeder, set up as before, only this time set up on the lookout perch.

Another trick is to find a hollow notch in a low tree limb and fill that notch with birdseed. The birds will land on the limb to eat the seed, but when you shoot the photo the seed in the notch is not visible, thus yielding a natural setting. You can also make up a suet mix with seeds in it, and rub that into the bark of the tree limb. Again, its not visible in the photo but it will attract the birds to that spot and keep them there long enough to get some good shots.

I'm sorry - I should have said that you needed to turn on your digital zoom -although the further out you go the less steady your camera will be. I guess I wasn't quite as awake yesterday morning as I thought I was.