For most systems, capping off some sprinkler heads will make the operating water pressure higher. The right way to build a system is with a pressure regulator before the valves, but that can add almost $100 of cost so most people skip it. Without the regulator, pressure will depend on the flow. Most water mains exceed the recommended water pressure for sprinklers. Mine comes in at about 110 PSI. Sprinklers like to run around 40 or 25 PSI. The reason it usually works is there are so many heads on a zone that the valve restricts the flow and brings the pressure down. When you cap off some heads, the pressure goes up. Many valves have a flow control option and if yours does, you can adjust it to bring the pressure back down to the optimal level. If your valve does not have flow control, you can implement your own with a gate valve in series with your sprinkler valve.

To northga, I found this post purely by accident. I thought I would give my 2 cents worth anyway. Do not bother with a larger hose ( if you need a new hose anyway by all means get the 3/4". Don't bother with the expense of a 1" ). The increase in pressure will be negligable ( unless you have a long run of hose ). Someone answered your post and part of his information stated that in your area it was common to have a 3/4 inch service line and water meter. If true your water venders' engineers need an education, 3/4 inch is absurd unless you are providing water supply to a camper. In any case it sounds like a plumbing problem ( very common ). Many times ( frankly most of the time ) pipe and fitting sizes are just to small ( even if 'up to code' )and create velocities that are to high, thus a more than reasonable pressure drop. I would love to sell you a booster pump, but that will not solve the problem ( considering the information you have provided). The first thing to due is to confirm the size of your service line and water meter ( if 3/4" you are out of luck ). Your water vender should be able to provide you this information. Second, locate your water meter. There will be some type of isolation valve(s)( shut-off valve(s) ). Be sure the valves are fully open ( you would be surprised how often they are not ). Next locate your pressure regulating valve ( yes you do have one ), if there are isolation valves here as well be sure they are fully open. I'm sure you have the same[pressure]problem inside the home when several demands are made on the supply ( this occurs in most every home due to small pipe sizes ).[ If the plumbing were sized and piped correctly your shower would not be affected by a toilet flushing. ] I am getting long here... A booster pump ( or any increase in pressure ) will not by itself provide an increase in flow ( gpm ). Flow is determined by what the plumbing (size) can provide within acceptable losses and by the demand on said plumbing. If you are demanding 20 gpm ( sprinklers, showers, dishwasher, etc ) all at the same time and your plumbing can only provide 12 gpm ( at 5 feet per second velocity ) you will give up the pressure that's available. There are many things you can do, even if your water meter is to small ( including but not limited to installing a booster pump ), however any "fixes" will result in increased flow and pressure for the sprinkler(s) and reduced flow and pressure in the home ( all things being equal ), short of installing a second service line and water meter. If there is a hose bib available upstream ( prior to ) of entering the house then do use this connection ( see "fixes" above ), this alone may provide you with the what [pressure] you are looking for. The bottom line is consider doing your outside watering during a time when houshold water consumption is not an issue. Hell, I've got to get back to work hope this has been some help. MChristensen, Technical Consultant Booster Pump Tech Here is a link that might be useful: GardenWeb

1. Yes. I have used that primer on PT decks, lasts many years as a good exterior wood primer. Flood it on and backroll it to work it into the pores completely. 2. No. Most of the painted decks we do are finished with a non-skid paint. I do not recommend this coating for residential use. It is high cost, high maintenance, and ugly to boot! Perhaps someone knows of a good solid color deck paint.

Easy way? You mean like replacing all the pipes coming from the meter to the house with 1 inch pipe instead of 3/4 or 1/2 (whatever you have)? This won't increase the pressure over the pressure you have at the meter, but you will have fewer losses from resistance and capacitive losses. Run 3/4 pipe everywhere. Use 3/4 inch hose bibs. Use 3/4 to 1 inch hose. My favorite hoses are the Craftsman brand from Sears. Never use the springy hoses or the kind that shrink up by themselves when you turn off the water. Those are a pressure and flow sucking nightmare. How far is the house from the meter? How much hose is involved? You might want to run solid pipe out to where you can attach a shorter hose.