I planted 6 blueberry bushes this past winter. 2 each of Tifblue,Climax, and Brightwell. The Climax and Brightwell have all put on 8 or more inches of new growth and look good. Both of the Tifblue plants have barely done more than leaf out in the spring. The older leaves have small and large brown dry spots with the rest of the leaf remaining green. Even the new growth it does have looks yellowish and develops brown spots as well. All 6 of the plants have received the same of everything such as water fertilizer and growing conditions. From what I have read, the Tifblue is one of the easier plants to grow. Thanks for any suggestions

Good topic. I wonder if water demand is different than water tolerance. While a Taxodium distichum my become a dominate tree in southern swamps it is not the least drought tolerant tree by far judging by what I'm seeing in suburban landscapes this year. Does that mean it uses the most water or can just tolerate the most water? In my experience the trees which get their leaves late and loose their leaves early - juglans nigra for example - are kinder to plant under. More of the year whatever you plant will get sun. I do not know if this applies to water or not. Am I correct in ASSUMING conifers on the whole do not go dormant until late in the year?

DO NOT SHOP HERE. Worst experience I have ever had with a nursery (and I have dealt with many of them). I ordered two bare root trees.. Several weeks later, one tree showed up completely leafed out with the leaves all dead. I placed it in water 30 min after it was on my porch and 5 hours later the leaves were all still obviously done. The second tree had a huge major crack in the main root. I sent the same attached pics to TyTy asking for a refund, and got a generic reply that because of covid 19 they where not responding to emails. I called two times and was put on hold for 20 min each time and never reached a live person. When I finally did talk to someone I was told they would need to discuss this with a manager. Later that day I was told that the crack in the root would likely eventually heal if planted, and the tree with the dead leaves had been potted before it was shipped, and it likely still alive and would shoot some new leaves if planted. That tree was not potted and it was dried out. I did not order struggling / damaged plants that were already going to go through transplant shock and might have a chance to survive. This is tree planting 101 and I have been treated horribly. I still have not received a refund, or offer or credit or replacement trees.

I spray copper and dormant oil in the early winter (after all leaves have dropped) and again in the late winter before the bud break. Both are usually considered organic if that matters. If I find plum curculio damage I spray in the early spring. I have not had to spray more than once a year for the plum curculio. You can search google to see what the damage looks like, a slit cut in the peach or plum. I use triazicide. It is reported that the bottle is only fully effective for about 12 months Some people use surround kaolin clay that is organic and can be sprayed after each rain. It turns the tree white and is effective if the pest pressure is not too great. I bought some but get too much rain. And I am a little lazy and figure using one spray early in the season is not too bad. Then I spray with Monterey Fungi figher starting in mid spring after the fruit has set. I spray it every 21 days unless the weather is dry and then I will wait until right before a rain to spray. i stop spraying a month before fruit ripens. You can buy it on amazon, You may be able to spray less being in drier area and it can take a couple of years before brown rot gets started. I did not spray at all the first year and didn't get brown rot until late in year 2. I have sprayed since and been able to control it. It is the one non organic you may have to use to get a consistent harvest. But with your drier weather you may be able to get buy without spraying and making sure to pick up and dispose of the leaves and the mummified fruit. They are what spreads the spores that infect new fruit. We use to get fruit in Clifton without spraying but they did have alot of worms. The rainfall is about the same. Like I said you may be able to grow without all the spraying but I can't due to my weather. I do not spray any of the blueberries, satsumas, or persimmons. I am in an area that really should not be growing stone fruit. The pears probably will not need any spraying either. Just make sure and not fertilize in the spring. Good vigor causes fire blight to be worse. Blackberries will not need spraying either. Grapes may need some spraying, not sure. I only cropped them 2 years and did not spray,