I've had butcher block made ten feet or longer before. If you must have a joint though, as a woodworker, I would not put it at the sink. Not really a leak issue, but with such a short joint there is not enough surface area to get a good glue bond. Keep looking for suppliers /fabricators of butcher block. Trees do grow taller than 73 3/4" ;)

Woodworking-wise, if you do the what laughable says, and you live anywhere with expansion/contraction issues (North-east winter vs. summer, say), it's going to be bad--joint will crack at best. Dining tables like that are constructed without gluing along the perpindicular seams, OR die fairly quickly under those circs. Or, well, OK, there are other things you can do, but you're not likely to be doing them for a butcherblock counter!

Can't see why you couldn't get a 90" counter, though, it's not like wood doesn't come long... But if you can't, do you have any hankering for a nice marble baking area? Something like that?

We're using recycled bowling lane (2.5 in thick end-grain hardrock maple), and plan to do the corner seam square, "straight in from the edge" as you say. Mainly because we're DIY and it seems like too much of a pain to get a 45 degree to match up, considering the old walls are not exactly square, and it's a simpler cut, and we're lazy. Plus, I rather like the square look.

If you're not opposed to recycling/reusing, check your local building salvage centers for bowling lane. It comes in 42 in x 60ish ft lengths, with the first 15 feet hard maple, and the back 45ish feet pine or fir. Many salvage yards sell it cut to length, so you can choose just the hard maple, if you want. The old poly surface needs to be stripped, but then you can leave the maple raw, finish with food-grade oils, or finish with Waterlox or a hard urethane. Plus, we got 30 ft of beautiful maple for a third of the price of new butcher block! Can be stained, etc. We're leaving it unstained maple with a beeswax-walnut oil combo finish, and plan to use it as a chopping block. Good luck, and have fun!

How about getting an idea domjso farmhouse sink? It is 36" wide and the counter just butts either side, so you can use two shorter pieces instead of one long one. That's how we solved the same issue.

Here is a link that might be useful: Sink

Be aware that bowling lane is hollow inside--that's what gives it the springiness necessary for bowling. It's not going to be like working with butcher block at all.

Boops, Ikea has butcherblock in lengths up to 96 7/8. Maybe that will solve your problem?

Thanks everyone.
ci lantro- i was looking at Ikea but didnt see the longer length. That would certainly fix my problem.
skatiero- Unfortunately, I only have space for a 30 in sink base.

Do like laughable showed, but instead of gluing or doweling or biscuits use a t-molding (Schluter's Reno-T for example) over the gap and a flexible sealant.

I have a seam in mine, and it's going to get those countertop bolts and silicone flexible caulk.

Writersblock: Actually, no, the bowling lane is not hollow. Ours got its springiness by being installed "floating" above the subfloor on some old-fashioned fiberboard strips -- looks like it was made with sawdust and a binder of some kind. Our lanes are solid maple and pine, but unlike butcherblock the wood strips are nailed together, not glued. In that respect you are correct that it's different than working with butcherblock. In its full length it is rigid and solid, held by thin 4" wide steel strips every 10 feet or so. When cut into lengths that don't include the steel, the wood accordions a bit. Learning from a buddy who's done this in several remodels, we'll use food-grade wood glue in each seam and clamp it so it doesn't separate when installed. Also, unlike butcherblock we'll need to trim out all the edges -- there are pieces of nail that show on the cut ends, and we'll use a dark wood for contrast and to emphasize the mahogany inlaid arrows. Yes, it's lot more work thank buying new butcherblock, but we're having fun with the recycled DIY, and we just love the inlaid arrows. (Plus we're bowlers, so we like the geek factor.) And, hey, $320 for 60 feet of countertop!

Thanks, Mizinformation. It's just that what's usually sold as bowling alley flooring at places like lumber liquidators is generally hollow.

It sounds like you've got a very good handle on what you're using.