If you use Cree LR6 instead of the BR30, 32" would be fine.

1st thing to do is to figure out the total cabinet depth.
Cabinets are usually ~ 13 - 15" deep (including the doors, trim). If there is crown molding, it could add up to ~ 3".

Then you need to consider the external dimensions of the trim ring - add ~ 1".

The placement of the cans will also be affected by the available space in the ceiling.

Symmetry would be nice, but practical considerations come first.

Undercabinet lighting could be used to augment the main overhead lighting. However, it would be prudent to consider the main lighting on its own since there could be situations when one or the other light source (UC or overhead) will be used alone.

The number of sink-side cans could be reduced to 1. Or you could consider using alternatives such as pendants or track lighting.

Thanks for the input!

Molding is 2.5" and assume cabinets should be 13-13.5". Assume 13.5" that gives a total depth of 15". The distances from the wall that I gave earlier regarding the lights' placement were on-center; so the options are placing the edge of the trim either 2.75" or 13" from the edge of the crown molding. Anyone have preference or have ran into similar situations?

I've thought about allowing the UC lighting to compliment the overhead lighting and instead placing three 6" cans centering the hallway... while this would gain symmetry it would mean I'll be working in my shadows unless the UC is also turned on. While it's still better than what was there, I've debated on whether its the best option. I've also thought about placing two rows of three symmetrically down the galley but to do this the two rows would be closer to the center and 2-3' apart tops. Six 6" cans may be overwhelming in this area too? Perhaps others have thoughts on these ideas?

You mentioned Cree LR6. LED's have come a long way. However these lights are cost prohibited for this project so I will opt for halogen or incandescent - at at least for the immediate future.

I originally had considered track lighting, and may not completely closed minded to the idea, but would prefer to see a solution with recessed - or at least hear how track lighting provides a better solution.

Thanks!
Marc

I prefer having the light ~ 1 ft from the edge of the crown molding.

Assuming ~ 600 - 650 lumens per can, 6 cans should provide ~ 3600+ lumens.
With an assumption of 35 lumens per sq ft, the space needs ~ 1971 lumens. Total floor area ~ 56.33 sq ft.
According to the calculation ~ 3 - 4 cans.

If the LR6 is cost prohibitive, the CR6 is available for ~ 50.

The immediate cost of a recessed can light is really
1. Cost of the recessed housing. Could exceed $20 per can.
2. Cost of the lamp/ bulb.
3. Cost of the trim ring.
4. Installation costs ( ball park ~ 100 per can).

Other considerations
1. Energy efficiency laws such as title 24.
2. Feasibility of installation - eg perhaps the space above the ceiling is too shallow or there are too many structural beams in the "wrong" place?
3. Future cost of servicing the recessed can is worth it. For example, CFL cans with an integrated ballast could be difficult to service when the ballast fails.
4. Impact on your energy bills based on the choice of lamps, can housing, quality of installation.

Thanks David! Thanks for the calculations. Your comments have been helpful and I think they're ruling out some ideas while giving me others I haven't considered yet.

Question - when you say you like to install 1' from the crown, is that 1' to the edge of the trim or 1' to the center of the light?

For what it's worth to address the other portions of your post, in my case I am the installer so costs are materials which I largely already have on-hand. As I mentioned I got the cans (and trim) practically free in conjunction with another purchase as a promo. This was a project I was originally going to defer due to budgeting if it wasn't for the promo (hence why LR6 is cost prohibitive). I'm not in California, and above the kitchen is attic space, so there's no structural/spacial issues other than me having no desire to re-frame ceiling joists at this time. The can's don't have an integrated ballasts for reasons you mentioned.... and for energy cost.... since dimmer is important to me LED/CFL are mostly cost prohibitive at the time being though I hope to evaluate them when it comes time to replacing the bulbs.

Thanks,
Marc

Edge of the hole for the can.

If your attic is heavily insulated, the cans need to be rated for direct insulation contact.

CFLs dim in steps and incandescent dimmers will not work.

The problem for LEDs & incandescent dimmers is that each lamp consumes ~ 10 - 11 watts and a number of incandescent dimmers have a min load requirement of 40 + watts.

So unless you have an array of lights, dimming will not work out too well (flicker, narrow dimming range). Examples of such dimmers include Leviton Vizia, Vizia RF, Monet, GE Z-wave incandescent dimmers, ...

David,

Don't want to hijack Marc's thread. But have a question about your post above. I will be posting my plan hopefully later today and was thinking of using Halo Air tight cans with LR6 bulbs. I figure the Halo is the better option if at the end of this project I do not have the budget for the LED so I can use anything. Your post above gives me pause on the dimmer situation since I will want all my cans on dimmers. So are you saying that there is a min number of cans that must be on a dimmer? or is this only for regular dimmers and not the newer Lutron Diva, Skylark, Lumea, or Ariadni CFL/LED dimmers with the adjustment wheel?

David,

Don't want to hijack Marc's thread. But have a question about your post above. I will be posting my plan hopefully later today and was thinking of using Halo Air tight cans with LR6 bulbs. I figure the Halo is the better option if at the end of this project I do not have the budget for the LED so I can use anything. Your post above gives me pause on the dimmer situation since I will want all my cans on dimmers. So are you saying that there is a min number of cans that must be on a dimmer? or is this only for regular dimmers and not the newer Lutron Diva, Skylark, Lumea, or Ariadni CFL/LED dimmers with the adjustment wheel?

It depends on each dimmer. Cree hasn't tested all the dimmers out there.

I got this from Cree
Dimmers have a characteristic known as "minimum holding current", which is the minimum amount of electrical current require to keep the dimmer firing properly. Incandescent(65W) bulbs draw current well above this level... We strongly suggest you should only select dimmers from our online list ...

On other sites, others have used different dimmers successfully. With the exception of Skylark, none of the dimmers you listed are on the list.

Btw, polar-ray is having a 4th of July sale...

The lutron site has more details than Cree.

However, it probably is not exhaustive.

I suspect that the minimum current required to keep the dimmer working is sufficiently low for others who have successfully used unlisted electronic low voltage dimmers.

Here is a link that might be useful: Compatible lights and dimmers