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Options to replace a rectangle flourescent light in the kitchen?

17 years ago

Hi, I have a small u=shaped kitchen with NO natural light. Right now, there is undercab flourescent lighting and a large, rectangle floruesent ceiling fixture with 4 25 or 40 bulbs.

I WILL be painting and perhaps replacing the counters. Right now, everything is entry level builder grade and previous owner choice.

I'd like to replace the fixture, but don't know what would give me ample light. I know that can lights are not an option given our slab foundation and bedroom right above the kitchen. The electrician said it would be very expensive to run new wiring.

Any ideas? Yes, the cover is off -- it desperately needed to be washed!

Here is a link to the room.

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Comments (5)

DavidR
17 years ago
That looks like a nice, bright, cheery kitchen as it is.

But if you really are keen to update, install a newer, more stylish overhead fluorescent with electronic ballast and T8, 3000K or 3500K lamps. Since everything is white you might like the whiter light of the 3500K. I would avoid "cool white" (4100K) because it screams "office fluorescent," but with 82CRI lamps it's at least more tolerable.

Speaking of which, be sure to get 82+ CRI lamps. The part number will probably contain the digits 830 or 835; or 841 for "cool white."
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ilitem
17 years ago
If you need the light, I would suggest staying with fluorescent also. You could put up a track lighting system, but it tends to get the room warm, and if you are working in a small kitchen, that is a problem. There are beautiful new fluorescent fixtures on the market that will enhance the appearance. Check out American Fluorescent, Sea Gull Lighting, Lightolier, just to name a few. I know that American Fluorescent came out with some really neat fluorescent fixtures.
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Generally, a good quality low voltage under cabinet light will give you no problems. The transformers are small enough to fit behind the 1.25" valence very easily. Line voltage, generally by definition, is bigger than low voltage. The wires are thicker, the bulbs are bigger. Since there is virtually no threat of shock with low voltage, you can get away with thinner wires and smaller connectors. Although xenons burn cooler than halogen, you won't feel a difference if you touch them. They'll both feel HOT. But don't let that dissuade you. I've specified thousands of feet of xenon strip light for under cabinet with 100% success. NSL has a product which can possibly work for both of you. It takes a line voltage input, but has an integrated transformer. It comes in various lengths and colors. It's 1.25" deep, so it'll be slightly more visible than a thin low voltage strip light. But it can be a good compromise. I've used it very successfully as well. Here is a link that might be useful: NSL Under Cabinet Xenon Light
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You are considering replacing a fluorescent light that uses about 80 watts and asking whether 300 watts - almost 4 times as much energy usage - will be enough? With electric rates expected to rise rapidly in the future, something is wrong with this picture! In fact getting practical task lighting from "modern" fixtures takes much more energy (recurring cost) and many more fixtures (initial cost), compared to your "outdated" fluorescent. Newer fixtures are almost universally designed to look pretty and be fashionable, not to provide good practical illumination where you need it. I know this isn't what you want to hear, but my recommendation is that if you must replace the existing fixture, replace it with another fluorescent that you like better. Make sure it has an electronic ballast, for efficiency and freedom from any flicker. Much more cost effective is to upgrade your existing light with an electronic ballast and new, high CRI lamps. This will get you significant improvement in the light quality AND efficiency for under $40.
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ironcook, you mentioned tubes, were they the traditional tubes or the curly compact kind? I think the last group of CFL's I bought were from Costco. I'll need to check out the big boxes to see what they're carrying now. Good point about glass fixtures. Mine are a heavy beveled glass. They're 70's vintage. I think the bevels obscure the CFL. Trees21, I'll need to check out the options on those electronic ballasts. I bought recessed lights a couple of years ago when Expo went out of business. I was planning to use those, but if the new electronic ballast types aren't too expensive I could possibly CL the halo lights I bought. Can't do much about the vintage fixtures though. I've got my heart set on those... I think I might use one of those 40% off coupons and give the Ott Lite bulb a try. I'll put it in a lamp that way I can take it into the kitchen and see how it will look. I admit I haven't done much crafting or knitting lately, but when this kitchen is finally done, I could definitely use this light for that in the future. Florantha, I'm curious about SAD. DH thinks he suffers from it, but he was a Psychology major, so take that with a grain of salt. I'll have to see if I can research this a bit. That would be great if it helps.
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finz2left
Original Author
17 years ago
Thank you both very much -- I think something a tad less industrial is what I'm after, and I didn't realize that new fluorescent lights had electronic ballasts! Good information about track lighting too. Thanks! I'll be hitting our lighting store on Wednesday armed with a bit more information now.
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don_calif
17 years ago
When I priced Philips F32T8 tubes in Home Depot, I found temperatures of 3000k, 4100k, 5000k and 6500k, ranging in price from $3 to $6. My own preference in my kitchen is for the 6500k tubes (very bright!). It's easy to experiment.

If you replace the fixture, do you get new ballasts with it? I want to keep using my old F40T12 fixtures (the pins on the tubes look identical). H/D had a big sign recommending the "REL-2P32-SC" ballast for my new application. I've since been pointed to a "REB-2P32-SC" ballast, but not sure of the details/advantages yet.
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DavidR
17 years ago
The REL-2P32-SC is an Advance brand ballast. I've used a bunch of them. I'd call them low- to mid-line ballasts, but they work fine. Note that these ballasts do produce a small amount of audible hum. I don't see any flicker, and startup is very fast.

The difference between the REL and REB ranges is that the former is a commercial unit and the latter is a residential unit. The REL has a much better power factor and radiates far lower harmonic distortion on the power line. These qualities are more important in commercial applications than in the home, but if the REL doesn't cost much more I'd go for it over the REB.

Either ballast should be used only with T8 lamps, but T8s will fit the old lampholders just fine. The lampholders have two pins; just connect them together as the wiring diagram shows.

To my eyes 6500K is freezing cold, like an overcast winter's day. I prefer a color temperature of 2700K to 3500K. Regardless of the CT you choose, be sure to get CRI (color rendering index) in the 82 range, not in the 70s. It really makes a difference in the quality of the light.
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