I think you will find that both will root. The site has very good basic information for general use, but some plants will root along the stem and some need the node/bud area for best rooting, and she was giving advice for garden shrubs in general. Same with wounding the stems..some plants need to have that done to increase the chances. Since I know that Hydrangeas will root if a stem just lays on the soil, I didn't bother to wound the stems. I save all the really large plastic bags that rolls of paper products come in if they are partly clear plastic. I can set a whole tray of little plants in them and tie it shut. Instead of using sticks to hold it up, you can tie the top up to whatever you can find...or just hang is by a length of cord. After a period of time, I cut a slit in one side and can reach in to check for roots or spray with water. The slit will close enough to keep the humidity up inside. Strange looking things can be found anywhere I have been. LOL One of these is hanging from a shop light fixture, right now, full of Ajuga cuttings. I like Ajuga for very large containers for color and trailing habit.

That all depends upon how much you want to spend. Can diagonally installed T&G subflooring be secured to eliminate most squeaks? Yes. Will it be forever squeak-free? Probably not. But, it is your least expensive option here. Will a new subfloor guarantee that squeaks will not appear in it over time? No. Never. BTW, most of the T&G separation we see with these plank subfloors is not due to shrinkage over time. Most of the T&Gs of these planks were never properly mated in the first place.

If your Sloan Valves are true Flushometer valves your Plumber is absolutely correct. W.C. flushometer valves require a 1" supply and urinal flushometer valves require a 3/4" supply with a minimum of 15psi dynamic pressure while a conventional tank type W.C. only requires a 3/8" supply line with a minimum of 8psi dynamic pressure. If your intent is to conserve water you could replace the existing flushometer valves with water saver type flushometer valves but the supply line size would still remain the same. On the other hand, if you want to reduce the line size you would have to convert to tank type W.C.'s.

It's not required but I''l say that laying a simple piece of 15lb. roofing felt on top of the joists goes a long way at preventing the tops from rotting out. Rain run off and moisture get to this surface through the gaps in the decking and it takes a long time to dry out relative to the rest of the structure. The water retention promotes rot. The membrane will keep the water off of the joists. Ice/water shield has the extra benefit of sealing around the decking nails/screws however by design it doesn't cure. Therefore I can see it flowing and possibly dripping in hot summer weather. Plus it's more expensive than the felt. I'd recommend the felt. YMMV