Did you look at http://ledneonlight.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=649&zenid=5cc32bf2248f325bf47d405bbd4bf5a6 The separate upper cabinets should be wired directly instead of attempting to use jumper wires. eg The 33" section could use a 11" + 21", mounting track, 1 jumper wire and 1 wiring compartment. You need to include all the necessary parts to get the total price. - mounting track, wiring compartment, possible jumper wires.

I really like the one from Bellacor-- will check it out. Like you, I have somewhat traditional taste. The design concept of the house was that it look as though it *could* have been built in 1908 instead of 2008, with minimal updating. Though I used around 30 cans in the kitchen, I also did the ceiling in bead board with beams in a way that hides the cans. from a distance, you can't see the cans at all, which means you really only see them if you tip your head back. It isn't a perfect solution, but it helps. A solution I thought about but ultimately rejected because I have too darn many lights [and the $ add up] is using essentially a 'mini-mini-pendant', or mini pendant without the down rod/chain/etc: This one is also from bellacor, the only one I could find in a hurry. There are others out there, though. It's less than ten inches, so you'd have more than 7 feet of clear space with an 8ft ceiling.

Here are some ceiling fans with modern farmhouse style that can possibly fit in your room. Some of them are 52" and others are not--when they're not, I noted that in parentheses: Hunter Sentinel Hunter Matheston Hunter Donegan (44") Hunter Donegan (44", different style) Hunter Devon Park Hunter Prim (42") Hunter Crestfield (42") Hunter Cedar Key (44")

We could go on forever on manufacturers and their products, almost all of which I haven't owned and won't, as a result, recommend. What is needed before investigating hood system parts is defining what they need to be. So lets suppose that you have a 36-inch range and a reasonable 42-inch hood over it, set between 30 and 36 inches above it. Assume that the actual capture aperture is 3.5 ft. x 2 ft. (In a wall configuration this might be effectively larger, but that doesn't apply to this bit of analysis, which actually deals with presumed ratios between baffle gap areas and capture area, and is highly approximate and influenced by plume velocities.) It is desirable for residential baffle hoods such as Wolf makes that the intake air flow velocity be somewhere in the ball park of 90 ft/min. With an aperture of 7 sq. ft. (see above) you would want an actual flow volume rate of 630 CFM. Depending on your make-up air system, which somewhat depends on your combustion appliances, if any, you will need a blower with a zero static pressure rating higher than 630 CFM by a factor determined by MUA achieved house pressure match to outside, and by pressure loss in the baffles, which varies with flow rate. Your short duct pressure loss will be minimal. So, consider the Broan-NuTone 900 CFM external blower that I have a fan curve for that Wolf sent me in 2008. At 630 CFM, the pressure loss of the hood is shown as 0.4 inches of water column. The total pressure loss capability at this flow rate is 0.85 in., w.c. This leaves 0.45 available to the MUA. In there are no combustion appliances, this limit can be avoided by a damper controlled duct and any 3M Filtrite 1-inch furnace filter. However, a tighter inside-outside pressure drop may be desirable to assure little air infiltration through walls. If there are combustion appliances such as gas water heaters that require very small differential pressures to not back-draft carbon monoxide, then they drive the degree of tighter control. Before getting too fancy, what combustion appliances do you have, excluding the range?