Somewhere (I wish I could remember where) I saw a diagram for this. Take your plot plan and make two reference lines along two perpendicular sides, say the front and the west side. Standing on the reference line, move left or right until you can run a sightline (if that's what it's called) at a right angle to the reference line out to the object you've chosen and mark that location on the reference line. By taking the measurements of those markers along the reference line, you can fairly accurately plot any object (including tree canopies ... which do change) on the property. I hope my description hasn't lost you completely. I tried making a diagram, but upon previewing the message, I saw that all the spaces had been deleted, leaving useless strings of symbols. If I run across the original diagram I saw, I'll come back and post it.

Mindy, I'm having the same predicament. This year there seem to be more crispy leaves than usual. If it happens earlier in the season, I definitely will cut the whole thing back. Whether its a group 2 or a group 3. At this late stage, I am hesitant to treat group 2's like that because they will still put out new growth this year which will not be hardened off for blooms next year. For group 3's I'm a little more daring. A different approach would be to "dead leaf" them to make them look better. ugh. what a pain. On the other hand if the stem is fully dead, easy. snip. Maybe a little of this and a little of that... I've let a lot of my crispies persist. Mostly because I haven't had time to tend to them. I hate seeing them, but that's part of the game, huh?

I've always assumed that the daylily was named for the main character in the opera by Massanet, Thais. Massanet was French, and the opera's in French. Thus, it'd be pronounced tie-eese. Essentially equal weight to both syllables, the "s" is soft, and the "i" is pronounced like a long "e." (Imagine the name with a diacritical mark over the "i" - specifically, since it's an "i" and French, an umlaut.)

I think some people writing on this thread have had bad experiences with the old-school "Badger" or "Builders Special" disposals. The disposals made today, that have 3/4 hp or 1 hp motors, and all stainless steel innards (and at higher price points in the $200-300 range), are a completely different animal. You can use them on septic systems. Also, Insinkerator has a disposal that is specifically for septic systems, the Evolution Septic Assist model. I have a Waste King 3/4 hp batch feed disposal. This thing is unbelievable. I regularly put chicken bones in it, corn cobs, all sorts of things. I have had it 4 years without a problem. Waste King offers a 10-year in-home warranty. There is no other item I know of, appliance, computer, even my car, that has that kind of warranty. Its manual specifically states what can be ground: "table scraps, peelings, rinds, seeds, pits, small bones and coffee grounds. Cut or break up large bones, rinds and cobs before disposing. It will NOT grind plastic, tin cans, bottle caps, glass, china, leather, cloth, rubber, string, clam and oyster shells, aluminum foil or feathers." If the manufacturer is going to offer that kind of warranty, with those instructions, they must be pretty confident about their product. Recently there was a This Old House episode where they visited the InSinkErator factory in Racine, WI. First they showed how they tested their disposals with the not-unexpected watermelon rinds, celery, etc. OK, fine. But then they tested the disposals with steer rib bones. Each disposal had to grind 35 lbs. of steer rib bones to pass the quality control test. Then the disposals had to grind 6 lbs. each of pine cubes. I believe they were testing the 3/4 hp or 1 hp models. I'm sure the Builders-Special-Badgers wouldn't pass that test. Furthermore, the InSinkErator rep said that the steer bones are actually good for the disposals--they help clean out the stationary grind ring which makes it more efficient. Hope that helps clarify things. Are disposers septic safe? Waste King Disposals