In our area they have a pint removal service called plastic bead blasting. I heard a guy talk about it on a local handyman radio show. He said they can even leave the primer layer on when they blast. This was a few years ago, but then he said they would strip a metal mailbox for about 5 dollars. So you could try your local yellow pages, as the main use of this service is preparing classic cars

I know what you mean. It's just that lacqeur can be buffed and polished easily. I thought the epoxy would be too hard to polish. Suppose I should at least try it b4 I get all drastic. ;) I don't know why it came out all bumpy. I kept the spray can the correct 12-18 inches from the surface, as directed. The temp. was within range. It was a lil humid though. Who knows. Live & learn.

**Yeah, you show me one auto body shop that can paint as good as the factory, and that can repair a rear quarter panel w/o bondo.** Like anything else, you get what you pay for. There are places everywhere that do work that meets or exceeds anything that comes out of the factory. Bondo Bob's discount auto body isn't the only act in town. Easy example, go to any car show anywhere. Tell the owners of some of those that in your opinion their cars are bondo specials and the factory paint looked better than the paint job they have and see what response you get. Better have an escape route before you say that though. News flash, body filler isn't a bad thing. The factory uses it too. The owner chooses where to have their car repaired. It's up to the owner to do the research and pick a shop that replaces parts that need to be, only uses factory parts if you so desire, and has the ace painter and equipment. A good painter will have to take his skill level down a couple notches if anything to match the factory job. The hard part is trying to match the factory defects. As to the subject of the thread, 90% of this cars' depreciation to date happened the second it was signed over to the puchaser and at that moment no longer considered 'new'. $ value lost due to this is minimal. The majority dollar value lost is due to buyer remorse, accident or no accident. I understand feeling that if one wanted a wrecked or repainted car, one would have saved the money and purchased one used rather than pay extra for new. The reality of it is the other party and the insurance company are going to look at it as being repaired as good as it ever was. That's all that can be done so get over it. Unfortunately, that's life.

Question: Several posters have suggested that the OP get her panels repainted at an auto paint shop. Does that work OK for the panels on an oven door, and associated front panel surrounds? Wouldn't it have to be some kind of high-temp paint? If not to avoid damage to the paint through crazing, then to at least avoid the paint giving off smelly, or even dangerous, fumes when the doors got hot? I have slightly crazed panels on my oven doors (bad orginal finish at factory) and I would like to have them refinished/repainted. My stove is nearly 20 years old, so newer doors from manufacturer won't work. I have hesitated because I'm not sure auto paint is what I want - the doors seem to be "porcelainized", not painted, so I was thinking that I would have to find someone to bake on a finish. Painting would be so much easier. Are the front door panels on Bluestar really just painted?